gwb72tii

9 hours ago, John76 said:

The stuttering stopped ... but the gagging started!

Yikes, did $350 include the switch installation and a new battery and starter motor?

we should be thankful to some degree that BMW sees fit to make repair parts for a car (mine) that just passed it's 50th birthday. these are not, and never have been, cheap cars, even when sold new in 1972.

leather covers are no longer for sale

seats are $350 for both

Covers include built in new foam bottom and back cushions, plus leather to cover the seat back plastic cover. 
color is pearl beige.

sorry for the confusion. $1000 is the price and yes to the covers only.

Ill post pics later today of the covers.

When I bought my 535is, she came with e30 Cabrio sport seats.  I then bought new leather covers for the seats, and the covers are complete with headrest, seat and rear seat cover leather. The new leather is in coupe style, vertical stitching like e28 sport seats. Seats are ok as is, foam is ok.
I don't need the e30 seats any longer as I found and bought e28 sport seats. 
So seats and leather covers are for sale as a package. I'm in the Pacific Northwest and can deliver/meet up within a reasonable distance. I also have these for sale on R3V for the e30 crowd, and also on mye28. I prefer not to ship.

$1000

Fantastic car, as much fun to drive as any car I've owned, best motor BMW ever built, wish I had both of mine back.

ok so "dry ice blasting" is completely new to me. can someone explain exactly how it works and how to do it?

TIA

my 2 cents as a 72tii owner and someone who follows the market pretty closely

1. box stock is best for maximizing value on sale. I have Recaro's in my tii because they are comfy and hold you in place, but I'd put the OEM seats back in as long as they are in decent shape.

2. Don't change color. You'll never get every nook and cranny unless you completely disassemble the car to a shell only. 

3. Urethane bushings will not enhance resell value IMHO, and they significantly affect how harshly your car rides. ask me how I know. My next refurbish chore is to get rid of the urethane on my car.

4. If your paint is ok, do your best to make it look as good as possible. A little patina is good.

5. A LSD would be a plus, especially if it's a genuine 2002 diff

Sell it on BAT. As someone else mentioned. professional photos are a big plus, plus a chronology of your ownership. Owning the car for the last 30 years is adding value to the price.

IMHO

someone has to save ourselves from ourselves........

really Toby? so if my tii is a numbers matching car (and it is), that does not add to it's value? I would think it would.

I'd argue that replacing body panels/nose clips etc on a 50 year old car that was prone to rust does not harm the value as long as the body shop gets it back together correctly (like it was from the factory).

george

I used a length of plastic tubing from Ace Hardware that matched the diameter of the HR springs on my car. Pushed up a length far enough on the coils, probably about 12", to substitute for the pad. It has worked without any issues so far, about 25,000 miles....

I'm going to go in the corner now and duck

Is the spring still under compression?

if not you should be able to reach in a center it.

if it is, a big pry bar would perhaps get the spring back on its perch. Or lower the car, remove the bottom screw from the shock absorber, and then jack the car up. You can then apply downward pressure to the rear axle to provide enough room to pry the spring/pad back where it’s supposed to be. You’ll need another person to help.

Not leaving it open, as it came from the factory, will cause your headliner to expand like a balloon.

ask me how I know…

Thanks to everyone that replied. My tii runs similar to yours, except as it approaches redline it resists going to a higher rpm. No misses or hiccups, just a lack of willingness. I suspect the fuel injection system is in need of a thorough refurbishment and checkup. 
My distributor is an IE replacement with their Petronix type igniter so I think that at least is ok.

Thanks

For my 1972 tii. Now that I am forced to disassemble and repaint my car, I’ve had a RH trapezoid mirror that I have never mounted. I will need to buy a passenger door for the restoration, so drilling necessary holes etc. would be no problem.

But…..was a RH trap mirror an option in 1972? I want to keep the restoration as close to stock as possible.

TIA

Thanks Colin,  it’s been a while.

I was wondering if Wes was still in business? Do you know the name of his shop?

NM got it.

All good suggestions. I am not interested in modifying the motor. We originally bought the tii in 2003, and it was in need of being restored, cosmetically and mechanically. The only thing I have not done is to go through the fuel injection system, at all. I cleaned up the WUR, but that's it so the system is basically untouched since the car was manufactured in July of 1972.

I have wanted to send in the K-fish and injectors for restoration and now have an excuse to do so. I have been happy with the power of the motor, and its torque, I just have had no reference other than my car for what a tii motor should drive like.

The 318is is my fave BMW for driving, and I think the M42 is pretty much the best BMW motor of all the various BMW's I've owned through the years. That being said I am stuffing a Metric Mechanic motor in an e28 that I am restoring so I may change my mind!

I'm starting to plan on a refurbish of my tii motor, partially due to me wiping out the right side of my car and the necessity of disassembling it for a repair/repaint. I'll have to take out the motor and am planning on replacing seals and stuff. I rebuilt the motor about ten years ago and mechanically it's fine. It has about 30,000 miles on it and burns zero oil.

I've seen various posts about the warm up regulator, MSD ignition etc. And some discussion about the tii motor. I am trying to form a baseline on how my motor should run after getting everything back together. My motor has a lot of torque, but in a discussion some years back another tii owner said a tii motor should perform similar to an M42. I've owned a couple of 318is cars and my tii motor is nothing like an M42.

So for you tii owners, how would you describe how your car runs?

4 hours ago, Conserv said:

I always found ‘02 front ends — something about 1960’s-designed McPherson struts — extremely sensitive to wheel imbalances. I have no idea if your issue is as simple as that, but… more often than not, I’ve found myself having my ‘02 wheels re-balanced, occasionally twice!

 

When you come back to the tire shop and have freshly-mounted tires re-balanced, I also have the impression that the techs are more focused on getting it right, and not just slapping weights on a rim. Sometimes the shop doesn’t even charge for the re-balance.

 

Anyway, you have little to lose in trying it.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

this has been my problem in the past

nm

you can use an "easy out" screw extractor tool to remove the tip of the socket head cap screw.

you will need to center drill the "tip" of the screw that broke off so that may need removing the entire shaft, at least at the wheel end. IIRC if you take the axle off at the wheel end you can hold it off to one side to allow room for drilling the "tip".

I've never heard that he screw threads should be greased upon re-assembly? 

you ought to call Jim at MM and talk with the guy. vast reservoir of BMW specific mechanical knowledge.

I spoke with Jim at MM today. He had bypass surgery two weeks ago and is now back in the shop. MM is busy as ever, I will wind up waiting for a year for my motor.

I had a fascinating 45 minute discussion with Jim about piston design, piston skirt flexibility, etc. and he's pretty excited about a new billet design he's developed. I know just enough from a time long ago when I did mechanical/hydraulic engineering to be able to follow him. It's pretty refreshing to hear the excitement in someone's voice when they talk something new that they thought up, and I'm pretty excited to get my motor next year.