jerry

geeze, i was doing the exact same thing last night, almost, probably not more than 20 miles away in marin. anyhow, i was reassembling my newly blasted, painted and rebuilt pedalbox and booster assembly on my workbench. it was a couple iterations just to get the nuts on for the 'non-tii' booster only to remove them when i couldn't get the attachment bracket on. there's a definite sequence of events that must occur in order to succeed.

i too futzed with that pin for a while and even wondered how any poor bastard could reconnect it while it was on the car. i took me probably 10 minutes of patient jiggling just to get the pin in and another 10 minutes for that dang clip. manual dexterity is essential for these cars.

funny thing is is that i remembered this to be one of the harder things to deal with from previous effort 12 years ago.

anyone else want to chime in on other 'trouble-spots'?

it's been awhile, but i have been working on it most weekends. hopefully the rains will die down and the weather will warm up so i can be more motivated to work on it after work in the evenings. i'm tired of all this rain....

more photos showing some of the small patches i've been doing. also included is a photo of some of the metal bits i've cut out. this car actually is not really that bad as far as rust goes, so far.

soon, i'll be stripping the paint and preparing for epoxy primer.

Well, it's been awhile since I've posted any progress. I've been busy doing a lot of little rust patches. it's tedious work and the quality of my welding leaves much to be desired but i am seeing some improvement. i rely heavily on my cheapo craftsman grinder.

i've spent quite a bit of time on the passenger side front fender. truthfully, if this were being done in a shop it would certainly be cheaper to replace it with new, but my goal is to reuse as much as possible that is original. i've already committed to replacing the driver's side door and fender (a tough decision cuz it means loosing the original VIN tag on the door...). the front fender suffered earlier bondo job which i spent some time hammering and smoothing. i'm hoping that it will require less filler this time. my quarter panel also appears to have thick bondo as well. we'll see when i get there. till then i've added a couple older photos for completeness, put some recent work.

start by gluing the headliner to the fiberboard that's attached by the rear window. have on hand a box or two of those nifty paper clamps available at any office supply store. they work great to secure the headliner to the edges while the contact cement dries. i used a hair dryer to soften the vinyl up a bit while i stretched the headliner. take your time. you can trim to fit when the glue dries then install all the trim along the doors, etc. it's gotta be easier than painting the car... oh yea, the sunvisors and rear view mirror will help to snug it up a bit so don't be too overly concerned about tautness up front.

i did one back in '94 with absolutely no instructions, and just a lick and prayer and as i recall, i did it at night in december in atlanta in my autopainters yard. he kicked my out of the heated shop for lack of space. it turned out just fine.

just dive in.

OK, i'll bite...

why?

Rope and a thin piece of plywood worked for me. cheaper too.

I don't care what my '02 is worth.... I hope they stay worthless in case I want another. Here endeth the lesson.

amen to that. there's enough over-priced cars out there that i'd love to have but never will,... again, ie, 356. just too high maintenance.

you're in store for an hour or two of clean and regrease/oil.

i've been there before.

my recommendation, remove the wiper motor and arm assembly.

it's a PITA with the blower motor but after a few convolutions, it will come out. remove the long bar to the hood to gain extra room, but make note of the position of the springy-thing in the middle for reassembly.

remove wiper motor from arm assembly first. then remove wiper blades and unscrew large bolts to liberate the assembly. removing the assembly is the hardest part cuz the blower motor gets in the way. it can be done but you've got to align it just right.

R&R the motor and gear assembly and relube. clean and relube all joints. replace rubber grommets that go through the body while you're at it. haven't tried generic ones yet but one PO used sticky stuff instead (your call).

before reassembly, hook up the motor and give it a trial shot. then reassemble and enjoy as-new wipers... install motor only after the assembly is in place.

these motors are rather durable.

I

Question for the forum: Is it a good idea to use threadlock?

actually, new flywheel bolts come with a dry threadlock already applied on them. it looks like dried toothpaste. those are one bolts i wouldn't want to skimp on, just for peace of mind.

CAREFULLY pry the small cover plate with emblem off. theres a small nut holding it on in there. i discovered this the hard way, btw.

i'm happy for you. thank goodness i was wrong. it would be interesting to document all the inspection paint swabs underneath for posterity.

Do NOT apply power to your motor in this condition. Consider yourself lucky that your motor brushes have not suffered a melt-down, yet.

these motors are not free-spinning new, however, they should freely rotate. these motors use bushings, not bearings and that is the weak link. once they seize it's typical that the thermal protection circuit does not save them from meltdown.

best that you at least remove the box and work from your workbench to ensure enough oil seeps into the bushings. Remember, there's another bushing on the other end of that armature (the end your not seeing from the air plenum chamber).

interestingly, i recently opened a box from a '68 1602 to find an entirely different motor from the previous 2 types i'd seen. this particular motor actually was much easier to rotate than the new one i purchased. i attribute this to the probability that it actually used BALL BEARINGS. after 38 years it was still functional. this particular motor is a definite keeper and one i'd prefer over my new/unused motor.

wow, i could use your talent on those ugly weld beads i'm putting down.

your valve cover's kinda neat. has a Kragen's Auto sort of appearance. generic, i mean.

a sticky, tacky material is used. there's no preformed gasket used. it's the same stuff thats used to seal the heater box. 3M makes the stuff and you can use regular plumber's tack as well.

take a visit to www.bmw-02-club.de/faq/gasgest.htm

then after you've seen that. try a google search for the same site. there you should be able to get a semi-english translation of the same page. this german site has some good info, btw.

i too have a set of solex pph's from german ebay waiting for an install someday. it'll have to wait its turn though. mine is from a 2000ti so the airbox is not exactly right. i'm planning on cutting the recess from a spare tii airbox to modify the ti airbox to fit.

happy surfin. keep us all informed on any progress you make. i'd love to see the collective efforts of those using solex double carbs: 40 PPHs and DDHs.

gosh, i really hope it turns out to be real, BUT

there were a couple things that just didn't pass the 'smell test' from a distance.

first and foremost was the washed-out VIN plate.

i have 100K+ cars with perfect VIN plates. i pulled a clean VIN plate off a junkyard car exposed to the elements for god-knows how long. 10K car with a VIN plate like that??

btw, i ALWAYs look very close at the VIN tag for any telltale signs of respray. even with the best of taping, there's usually some small sign. i don't recall seeing any on this car, though.

the spare tire bracket was painted too as i remember (these are typically black)

the carpet by the floor pedals looked suspicious too.

10K miles just is not that much. i'd expect near pristine with a light dusting of dust on the surfaces for that to be more convincing.

i hope i'm wrong, but for an eBay car i have to be super critical if i can't personally inspect, especially for the mileage claimed.

my unsolicited opinion.

......kicking the soapbox to the middle of the floor now.....

30 minutes of driving from SF may only get you to the Waldo Tunnel on Wolfe Grade on 101, or worse yet, to the North tower of the GG Bridge on a bad day!!!

try Lucas Valley Rd and into Geronimo Canyon or Nicasio and those back roads towards Petaluma. i usually like the drive to Occidental and wander southward from there but your already an hour or more by then.

Bicyclist traffic really limits anything of any duration and closer proximity IMO. Paradise Drive in Tiburon is way too crowded with bikes, deers and idiots. My brother was almost hit headon by a speeding 911 yesterday in his truck on a sunny day with tons of bikes sharing the road. guy was in his lane on a limited-view turn... unbelievable stupidity.

I purchased a 'lightened' flywheel from Nate Barker that he advertised on this board last month. I purchased it upon his assurance that he would GLADLY take it back if it was not a lightened flywheel from Ireland Engineering.

Info from Ireland Engineering confirmed that this flywheel was 2 lbs heavier than what they sell (16 lbs vs. 14.5 lbs) and ring gear was noticeably used/worn, contrary to 'new' condition advertised. I compared it to two stock flywheels I had available (16.5, 17 lbs, respectively). I considered the weight discrepancy coupled with the wear on the ring gear sufficient grounds to return his flywheel, as Nate Barker assured me prior to taking my money, that he would do.

Long story short: I returned all items received from Nate Barker via insured, delivery confirmation mail 2 weeks ago. All attempts to contact Nate Barker via email and telephone have been unsucessful; quite a different experience from when I was receiving regular emails during his 'sales pitch'.

I am sorry to take up bandwidth on this FORUM, but these items were sold on this Board by a fellow 02er. I am out $240 (plus shipping costs both ways), and all attempts to settle this privately have failed.

I can be emailed at: jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

I would appreciate if INKA_Steve could intercede on my behalf (Nate is from Santa Barbara).

you may now go back to your regularly-scheduled programming...

yes they are correct. did a rehab on 2 sets of mine and the spring locations and holes were identical for each side. can't really remember if the light bracket angles were different though.

was wondering if the 'bath-tub' pistons qualify as the high compression pistons? was there any other variation of those pistons as there is for the 'piano-tops'?

one other addition to the list:

121, 121ti cylinder head

hey, real 'ti-owners' chime in, please

from my understanding of what a true ti is:

6-fuse car

short bumpers

no lower trim

solex PPH carbs and airbox

tii brake booster and front struts

tii boxed trailing arms

euro license-plate lights in rear bumper

tii clock on dash

no side markers

euro turn signals

probably different headlights

optional (maybe):

C/R 5 spd gearbox

C/R steering box

did i miss anything folks?

it's been my experience that the wiper motors are pretty robust. first thing you must do is remove it so that you can clean up and oil every joint in the wiper assembly, arms etc. then open up the small gearbox and clean and grease the contact plate. check the carbon brushes for condition and ensure the armature contact surface is clean. bolt it back up and test run it with wiper switch before reinstalling. i'm betting you'll have sucess if your wirings not at fault.

looks like there's a fatigue crack in your future. put a thick rubber bushing between the parts to try to decouple them somewhat. or better yet, just fix it right. probably have to drop the driveshaft unless you have double-jointed fingers and a helluva lot of patience.

i bought a couple things on german ebay last year. at first i tried the bank transfer option BUT, not only do you get reamed on this end, but the seller gets reamed on their end. so i tried an international money order and that was not much better. I actually had one seller return the MO and we agreed to cancel the sale because it would have cost him the equivalent of $30 in fees.

what i ended up doing was buying Euros at the local money exchange and mailing them direct. Sending currency through the mail is illegal (i think) and RISKY, but i did not experience any theft. It seems the British are much more receptive to Paypal than the Germans. Never had these issues when i bought from the UK. instant payment, no muss, no fuss.

Go figure...