jerry

turned the end of the crank to take the 2002 timing chain gear and 2002 pulley and thus the un modified timing cover and 2002 oil pump chain.

John

could you clarify this?

i was under the impression that using the S14 crankshaft pulley only required modifying the lower timing cover crankshaft seal diameter. i was unaware of additional mods to the chain gear and chain.

btw, several years ago inkatouring posted photos on the FAQ showing where he ground clearances in the engine block for the S14 rods. it was primarily at the base of the cylinder bores; didn't appear to be much.

keep in mind that early trailing arms from a 1600 do not have the bracket for the rear sway bar. otherwise they are identical to 2002 trailing arm.

ask me how i know??? :-(

my eBay bargain turned out not to be such a bargain...

are these 40's or 44's and what exactly is included?

intake manifolds, linkage, airhorns, filters???

the tropical plants in the background don't look native to Central New Jersey, unless global warming has occured.

if you are lucky, that rust patch could be a result of a hardened and cracked old window gasket allowing water to collect and drip. pull your rear seat up and look around the rear suspension attachment bolts for condition. if it's clean there then you may have isolated rust as shown.

rust will also hide under the rubber seam sealer in the rear corner of the wheel well. you'll need a stiff spatula and hammer and some judicious hits to carefully clear a small section for a look-see.

vince, i might have a use for the wheel well and front floor pans.

let me know if still available

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

could also use a couple more random pieces if carcass is still around.

But I still have 14 (yes, fourteen) 4- speeds,

600 stock springs,

at least a dozen subframes...

t

Thank you so much for demonstrating that there are hoarders with similar tendencies.

it's kinda like the alcoholic who points to the other alcoholic and says, "thank god i'm not as bad as that guy"....

good thing you're not willing to ship!!!

a 1/2inch carriage bolt.

your gauge cluster will break before that bolt will ever let go!!!!

pick a 'hot-dipped galvanized' one, too, available at your local marine hardware supply store.

you know Otis, i don't know why you support this 3rd party candidate. aren't you simply wasting your vote??

my support for Lotus is simply a reflection of its association with Ford Motor Company.

As we all know, the choice this season is between Ford and General Motors...

"Wouldn't you just rather have a Ford?"

i'm gonna have to vote for Lotus, over Otis... sorry...

i guess we can move to the personal attacks forum now.

i hope gas is cheap in Australia, or that you are gainfully employed...

i have a high compression engine (175psi), 292 schrick cam and 5spd OD tranny with 3.64 open diff and weber 38/38. all i can say is that it goes like heck but is one thirsty car.

i have a 36 mile commute each way and i'm filling it up every other day. i have no trouble staying in the fast lane, though.

with the exception of the 292 schrick cam, i was lucky, my engine and tranny came to me with a scrapped car for $800. no rebuild and no burning oil.

if i could change one thing, i'd replace my ST Springs with either cut OEM springs or progressive springs. i'd never use urethane bushingson a street car. especially on califonia roads.

this is the third time those have been listed on ebay recently. there were two bids on them the last time. something's just not passing the 'sniff test' here.

i installed a thicker ground wire between engine and frame rail. starter is back to normal. lesson learned. thanks

thanks for the replies.

i will recheck both those grounds tomorrow. i do know that i made my own ground wire out of a thick brown-skinned wire i had for use between the engine block and the body.

the other shorter wire between the alt and timing cover uses an OEM piece.

is there any checks with a voltmeter i can verify correct connections on these? sounds like i may not be getting enough grounding between engine block and body and it's shorting on the smaller brown wire...

i'll look for discoloration.

i have recently had trouble with my starter motor barely turning over just enough to start the car. i think it was a coincidence that this issue started after i did a compression test and discovered that i had 175psi across all four cylinders. i have a new starter too. anyhow, my battery measures 12.6V at the terminal. when the car is running, the voltage between the thick red wire at the back of the alternator and ground was 13.5V which is the lower limit of acceptable.

upon closer inspection, i saw that the brown wire from the 3-wire plug on the back of the alternator had melted the insulation.

This is a new discovery that was not there when i rehabbed the wiring harness. i have seen this happen on several other harnesses.

what causes this? i suspect that it may be due to increased resistance from corroded wires. the spade connection did look a little oxidized.

as a short time fix to get me going i merely re-ran a wire from the alt to the regulator, until i can do a proper replacement inside the sleeve.

i also discovered that my alternator light in the instrument cluster was dead so i had no dummy light to indicate pending doom. that's fixed now and seems to function normally now.

anyhow, i guess i'm concerned with the underlying cause of the fried wire at this point and whether or not my car will start tomorrow morning so i can go to work on time...

, gas tank is still available. Ill let it go for $100 if you pick it up,

max

email me about your gas tank. i'm in marin. willing to meet in fairfield??

let me know.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i don't have any pictures to share at this time but i wanted to document what i've been doing since my last post.

i just installed my rebuilt vac-advance distributor that i sent out to Advance Distributors for rehab. i was informed that the vacuum unit was worthless and NLA new. fortunately i had a good one on the shelf. now i know what to look for when assessing used distributors. i promptly removed my $4 Brisbane Show bargain distributor and discovered that it too had a faulty vacuum unit. New spark plugs, points, condenser and cleaned distributor cap and resetting the distributor to TDC by hand, and the car started up. i could immediately tell i was gonna be pleased with the new bits.

i set my timing light to about 12-deg BTDC per instructions from rebuilder and the flywheel ball was steady. i'm so used to seeing a bouncing ball in there. what a change. i could almost balance an egg on the car, but my idle is a little faster now so tomorrow i'll play with idle speed and perhaps reduce the idle jets on the Weber 38/38 one more step. the used spark plugs are slightly rich, but not too bad.

PINGING: on my test drive the car did ping a little when i pushed it so i have to sort that out as well.

cosmetically, i replaced the maroon hood with a white one and installed the OEM hubcaps. the car is screaming for a paint job. i just might pay for this, so i can complete the interior.

in the meantime, i'm doing an extensive rust restoration on 2760440 and will start a project blog on that car at a later date. i don't want to have multiple years between posts like i did on this car...

overall, i'm definitely learing my way around carburetors with this car and look forward to installing a set of Mikuni 44 PHH's on it.

one last pleasant surprise: i took a compression test yesterday and discovered that all four cylinders measured 175 psi. WOW!!! not bad for a used engine i got with a junked car i originally bought for the 5 spd. that car was scrapped after being rear-ended severely.

oh, if only your tilter was in the bay area....

does it break down for shipping and storage?

So does anybody know if that works with a "regular " 1973 2002 A as well? And if so, is it an easy upgrade or complicted to install? Any alternatives? Thanks

there are only two real reasons to go to the effort of replacing a standard brake booster with a tii booster:

1) you are planning to install sidedraft carburetors and want the clearance for the airhorns or air filter.

2) you desire the appearance of installing an 'upgraded' brake booster to your car, knowing that you paid more for it so it must be good.

both are reasonable desires. you will also have to replace your master cylinder to the shorter tii-version if you want any chance of mating up with your existing brake lines (after bending them into position). or you can cobble together some short pieces to make up the difference.

i convinced myself that item 1, applied to me so i went through with the conversion which included purchasing new brake lines and bending them to mimic the longer tii lines. Until i actually go through with installing the sidedrafts, i am resigned to the fact that item 2 is probably more applicable to me at this time... :-(

i'll buy the nose trim piece.

let me know shipping to 94920.

i can paypal and reply this evening after work

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i have adopted the habit of merely spray painting all my Cd-plated items (with the exception of nuts and bolts, too much effort) with either a silver and/or gold spray paint.

i'm located near salt water and this practice has noticeably preserved these items from deterioration. i got past the OEM gold-Cd look a while ago. it only lasts for garage-kept cars.

on a similar note, i've noticed a significant viusal improvement in the quality of chrome and silver plated spray paint recently. i found some silver paint that is pretty darned shiny and a good alternative to expensive chrome plating.

i adjusted my TS tab as shown in the photo above, 0.012in clearance between the TS tab and the steering arm tab.

it now functions as it should. i learn something new about these cars all the time.

now if i could just get my left-side front turn signal to function....

air, fuel and fire is all you need.

starting with fire, how did you verify that you are getting spark to the spark plugs?

since the engine worked before, i'm gonna assume you've got air in the form of decent compression.

that leaves us with fuel, did you verify that you are not flooding the engine, or starving it?

as for timing, did you align the distributor when the camshaft is at TDC on No.1 piston?

let us know and we can post suggestions as they occur to us...

the Chrysler K-car and original Dodge minivan top my list of the top ten most beautiful cars. Curves are way overrated....

I recall setting the clearance between it and the TS finger per the Blue book.

hummmm, the clearance may explain my quandary. while fiddling with it i noticed that my No.5 fuse shorted. i replaced it. it appears that a short cooling down period was necessary before my flasher worked (at least while i observed that it functioned by grounding against the steering column. is that normal? i will readjust the distance as shown. thanks for posting.