PDX.Duke

I REALLY appreciate that explanation! Very clear and helps a great deal in my understanding of something that was not immediately intuitive to me. Cheers, Doug.

Any concern that grease or anti-seize on threads could impair security of torqued lugs? Thanks!

I was able to, mercifully and without great effort, remove the welded-by-PO wheels studs from my front e21 hubs. I will be cleaning and prepping to install new screw-in studs. I've found a couple offerings online for what I need to fit my 13" Alpina rims (M12 1.5 x 57mm), but at wildly different prices. And since I'l, be buying between 8 and 16 of these, the difference adds up. Having only fairly recently acquired my 2002, I am not very familiar with either the various vendors yet, or differences between wheel studs, and hope to solicit advice/feedback from the hive. Here's what I've found: 1. Turner Motorsports (which I understand are owned by ECS Tuning?) have them in a "Black magnesium phosphorous corrosion resistant coating". PRICE: $11.99 ea. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-motorsport-parts/turner-motorsport-12x15-55mm-full-thread-wheel-stud-most-bmws-e30-e36-e46-e90-e92-etc/twh9950x55/ 2. Ireland Engineering have them in some not specific silver finish. PRICE $2.75 ea (theirs even included lugs, which I don't need) https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/12mm-x-57mm-long-thread-in-wheel-stud/ 3. And 2002AD.com seems to be selling the same thing as IE (and even uses the exact same text description), but for slightly cheaper at $2.19ea. https://www.2002ad.com/storeworks/view_item.cfm?id=2589 So, my QUESTION: I'm assuming that the black magnesium coating matters? Can anyone fill me in on the fundamental difference? Thanks!

@Son of Marty & @BarneyT, The bolt spacer where the control arm and subframe meet... I like this idea a lot, but I've go a conundrum. I lift the front end straight in from center and the jack chassis' position on the ground doesn't leave clearance to get the jack stands properly positioned for this. How duo you go about this? Perhaps your jack stands have a smaller foot print? Or you come in from the sides with the floor jack? Would love some tips. Thanks (ps. Yeah, I know. I don't need 6-ton jack stands, but its what I got 🤷🏽)

Yeah, I think the frame rails are vulnerable (although many have mentioned this as their chosen jack placement). Mine seem to have deformed mildly (see post I just made with pic). And when you say "subframe retention bolts", can you help me identify more precisely where you referring to? Are you talking about the rearward bolt of the sub-frame to chassis brace? Like here?:

Unfortunately, as wide as my jack stand "perches" are, they aren't quite wide enough for the frame rails to sit nicely in the cradle. And the rubber pads feel like they are tracing the frame rails nicely, but also leave me feeling like the overall stability of my "suspension plan" is compromised a wee bit. Plus, having removed these jack stands at the frame rails upon which my car has been resting now for a few days, I notice a mild deformation of the bottom rail surface. I know a lot of people have recommended this placement, but I'm not inclined to put that kind of stress on those rails again. Here's a pic: Now... On to investigate the bolt spacer at control arm to sub-frame joint.

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Unfortunately, as wide as my jack stand "perches" are, they aren't quite wide enough for the frame rails to sit nicely in the cradle. And the rubber pads feel like they are supporting the frame rails nicely, but also leave me feeling like the overall stability of my "suspension plan" is compromised a wee bit.

My jack came with a pretty thin rubber pad but I was able to source a much better one about an inch thick. Much happier with that.

Yeah, a couple 2x6s is what I used in front. And a lo-profile jack. Just have to remember to have those boards in place when I lower. 😳

What do you think of those rubber pads? You like those or wood?

I'll go have a look at the bolt spacer where the front arms go through the subframe tomorrow. And 👍🏼 on the wheels stacked under car!

I know (and I'm sorry), this horse has been beaten dead over the years, but... I've done a pretty broad searching of the archives and there are so many opinions about (some, contradictory) and mentions of proper jack stand placement that I thought I'd just run this by y'all. I'd like to get the rear up too (I'm in the middle of replacing wheels studs all around) and it may be parked this way for a while and just want to be sure I've got the smartest, safest and most secure method employed. FRONT END: I've got my front end up, supported at both frame rails by 2 6-ton jack stands (overkill, I know), and my floor jack "parked" under front sub-frame center. Like this: Questions: 1. I've got rubber jack stand pads to protect the rails, but I can see some mild deformation of the rubber. Would I be better off in the long run with, as some have suggested, 2x4 blocks or 4x4 sections between the jack stands and frame rails? 2. Are the frame rails at all vulnerable to this weight-bearing or should I be using the front sub-frame if that placement doesn't interfere with the work? REAR END: When I get to the rear, I plan on lifting with floor jack by the center of rear sub-frame, just in front of diff (its been suggested that the diff is NOT the place to lift from). And I would place the 2 jack-stands on the outboard ends of the sub -frame, just inboard of the sub-frame-to-chassis brace. Like this: Questions: 3. In order to place floor jack here t left, Id be coming in from the side. Am I right? 4. Am I correct on the floor jack placement? Thanks everyone🙏🏼❗️

Freezing them I presume reduces them, ever-so-slightly, in diameter, making them easier to install? Does the low temp effect the loctite at all? PS. I love how every time I've typed the word "loctite", autocorrect changes it to lactate. lol

So, I pulled the caliper and rotor off and am now able to see exactly what I was expecting to see (what @AceAndrew euphemistically referred to as a "non-recommended "improvisation"): The remaining 3 studs having also been tack welded to the front face of the hub. I can't imagine not replacing these wheel studs (and almost certainly the drivers side too once I get over there). QUESTIONS: 1. Am I correct that I could elect to replace with either screw-in (like whats on there now) or press-in studs? If so, is there an advantage of one over the other? 2. How might I go about removing these tack welded studs? Honestly, to my neophyte eyes, they don't look like they're doing a whole hell of a lot. I assume I'll be removing the hub and I'd like to think I can get these out without damaging the hub itself. I've bought a map-pro torch which I understand can be helpful in loosening up Loctite bonds, but what will I need for these obnoxious snotty welds? Would the "double-nut" method in reverse work here? The one stud seemed to come out without even trying, which might indicate that these other welds are not going to put up much of a fight. Was the lug on the stud that came out overtightened? I have no idea - that wheels' been off only once since I bought the car, for rotation, and that was by someone else - a mechanic who I'm inclined to trust. 3. If I go press-in, is Loctite sufficient to eliminate the risk of the stud coming out again in the future (providing lugs are not installed having exceeded proper torque specs)? 4. The current studs are approx 58mm (I'll get a proper caliper reading once my just purchased, 1st ever, caliper arrives in the mail tomorrow). Although the old lugs (I've got a fresh set of chrome Alpina lugs waiting to install) seemed to fit these studs and wheel (authentic Alpina 13") just fine, what is the best way to determine the proper stud length" Thank you all! I cannot begin to express my appreciation for the advice, replies and information I've been receiving here. The reassurance of having this knowledge base available has given me the courage to keep my sleeves firmly rolled-up.

@Son of Marty "Hardware is commonly referred to by the size of the bolt it's self, not the nut or bolt head size:" That makes perfect sense! Look at that, I learned something useful today. Thanks!!!

OK, cool! I think I see what you're talking about. The bolt that hold that L-bracket on, however, in my setup is 13mm. Is this (photo below) what you're referring to?

@AceAndrew Thanks for your late night reply! SUCH great and useful info! I've read mentions of the Volvo BBK, good to know that's my setup. Also useful to know that the E21 hub shares the 02 bearings. I very much appreciate you noticing and pointing out the lack of safety wire on the steering arm bolts. Just added this to ever-growing my ToDo list ✅!

Racecraft has crossed my radar before. Your S14 02 is gorgeous (also, just found this): Jim Froula (@racecraftnw) • Instagram reel WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM 146 likes, 2 comments - racecraftnw on July 3, 2023 And the TiSA... 😳👍🏼 Thanks for this referral! -Doug

👍🏼

Studs sure are more appealing to me, both for ease of wheel removal & install as well as because I just bought a full set of pretty and shiny chrome Alpina lug nuts from Coupe King for my Alpina wheels. You'd recommend bolts over studs? How come?

Oh, wow!!! No kidding? That's slick!!!

Thanks Phil, Yeah, my inclination is to do whats necessary on all 4 corners to get bullet-proof (ie, know for certain that it's all as it should be. When you say "strip the whole lot down", do you mean removing all the brake lines as well with the intention of redoing these too?

Marty, See my post right above this and there are better pics of the brakes for y'all to help me identify them (E21, I suspect?). What you say about the ground sections of the calipers being there to accommodate the wheels makes sense. FWIW, I'm running original Alpina 20-spoke 13" x 5.5" wheels at all corners. If I leave all hard lines and hoses tight, will I still be able to move the caliper enough out of the way to have access and get the work done? Also (yeah, I know very little about brake lines as well), if I were to start loosening these line connections I imagine I'd have some brake fluid running/leaking out? Thanks!