Birdie

It's funny you say that bc you are making me rethink my observation and I am wondering if the noise/physical click is simply traveling down the fork into the perfect echo chamber that is the bellhousing. I will have at that entire assembly here later today - cleaning, lubing, etc.. BTW - I was reviewing me video and noticed that the fork at the push rod connection looks damaged. I guess I didn't notice when I was under the car, on my back. I have attached a pic. In your opinion, is that as bad as I think it is? As well, I see a small clear plastic tube going into the slave cylinder (it looks empty). The tube looks much newer than the cylinder (or anything else down there). There is also another nipple on the cylinder that does not have a tube nor is it capped. Can anyone tell me about these? Any check or general maintenance to be performed on this assembly?

And you think a 'catching ball joint' at the push rod / fork connection would cause such a distinct click inside of the bellhousing? When I put my hand on the bellhousing I really feel it inside. Not at the push rod. I sure hope you are right..

===CONTEXT / SYMPTOMS=== Until a month ago my car was not driven for 18 years. We got her running 'great' and have been slowing putting more miles on her after each little improvement project. A few days ago it developed a very subtle click at the point of full release of the clutch. So subtle that I thought the pedal pad had a crack that was rubbing. Well, fast forward a few days, maybe ~75mi, and the click is very loud and very distinct and getting worse fast. ===DETAILS=== The click can be reproduced without the motor on. Simply depressing and releasing the clutch will cause the noise. That said, if I release the clutch with ninja-like soft feet I can certainly minimize the sound. In the video you will see inside the bellhousing as the clutch is pressed and released. As well, you will see the slave push rod. One small detail of mention is that even though I can put my hands on the bellhousing and feel the click, you can clearly see the master slave moving ever so slightly out of / back into alignment at the point of the click. I should mention that the click seems much louder and physically stronger in real life than in the video. Okay 2002faq geniuses, what is my diagnosis and how sad am I? Lubricant sad or clutch kit sad? Thanks!

Great article. Looks like a very fun project. Might I ask where you got that backseat upholstery? It's great looking.

I should add that I have no need to pass smog. It can all go. I found this diagram and it’s great but I’d still appreciate some input and context, per the video, as to what’s left in my car , whats I can take out and what I can redo. Thanks.

Note that my car is running well so this topic is informational. I have a problem waiting to happen. Wire(s) that starts at both the intake manifold and starter, work their way to some relays (maybe some sensors) on the firewall. They are then off to the exhaust manifold and finally to the carb. It may be two separate wires all the way through or they might have some horrible marriage along the way. There are 2 abandoned female connections en route. I do not know a lot about such things but my guess is that it is part (one wire) Auto Choke and part (separate wire) Smog. Guessing the abandoned connections were smog related. Likely that the only portion currently in use is the Auto Choke - which we love. Can someone tell me a bit about this wire(s), what the original functions were and what I can do to clean it up... get rid of, start over. These wires are hanging on for dear life and making a mess all the while. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMy6OdJV1VrlZzhzO4TLkU5qBLkwDRGDq

Thanks Harry but someone just reached out and was able to take care of me. Sorry that I didn't flag this WTB as 'Sold'. I have done so now. Thanks again and there will be many more parts in my future so we may be in touch again.

Birdie - It looks like the original harness was already stripped back to at least the cowl. You can see in my latest picture that the 'harness' leading to the coil is now of the electrical tape variety. Thus no translucent insulation and no inline resistor. This is a very interesting point because the inline resistor must have been removed at this time and why the ceramic resistor was put in.. when there was still a stock black coil... which would have required it. pic detail - green/red was going through ceramic resistor - now straight to + coil. Birdie - While I can't confirm the model just yet I have some better pictures and there doesn't seem to be any sort of vacuum line. Birdie - Points/condensor. The Innova 5568 looks like something I need. Thank you for the suggestion.

this is my aggregate compilation of solutions suggested in earlier posts.

Success! While I am not qualified to give a definitive cause(s) and solution(s) on something so complicated, it is my belief that many of you were correct about the issue(s) and that without all of the different POV's this would not be resolved. Thank you everyone. Read on. Summary: - The rain likely had nothing to do with it - The cold + the first 50 miles in 18 years caused a self-adjustment (gunk, particles, etc.) of the choke/idle - The ceramic resistor was causing a weak spark - The clog/self-adjustment of the carb made the mix leaner and the weak spark was no longer able to ignite it as before. - This would explain why the PO, who had the car methodically serviced the car prior to 2005, would have never noticed the superfluous resistor as long as he kept on top of the carb tuning, etc. Short Term Resolution: - Remove ceramic resistor from (+)coil circuit - Adjust choke/cold idle Long Term resolution: Permanently remove ceramic resistor from circuit Rebuild carb (thanks @John76 ) Process (hours of overly cautious prodding condensed into a one minute read): - The fuel pump was working extremely well (thanks for the step-by-step test plan @Mike Self) - After bypassing the ceramic resistor we saw signs of life (spark) but it just couldn't quite get going (thanks for the incredible catch and test plan @'76mintgrün'02 @Dudeland) - Adjusted the choke (having never spent a minute with a carb thank you Youtube) - It's started right up. However, whereas on the warm day that I picked it up from the mechanic and the cold idle was too good to be true for a car that sat for 18 years, it now required that I give it a little gas to keep the engine running. - after a few minutes of babysitting the idle it warms up and runs just like the day I picked her up (moves off of cold idle cam step) - Adjusted the idle screw (again a complete rookie's touch) and things are looking like a 'win' for Team 2002FAQ. As with any such 'project' I came away with more questions/issues about this car than I went in with (now the horn honks when I start it), so there will be many more posts to come. Thanks again everyone!

Thanks for all the great advice everyone. I’m looking forward to the weekend. Will report back.

Excellent test advice. Thanks resra. Will report back.

Thanks for so much helpful info john76. I've certainly got some marching orders now. However, I must admit that I have never worked on a carburetor before so this won't happen quickly. I'll be back with some answers and many more questions. Thanks again. ps. I am out in the East Bay. Car came from Novato, although it appears to have spent most of it's life in Point Richmond.

Questions are great. Indeed, it sounds like it wants to start - desperately. Yes, the car was parked outside during the rain storm. Distributor cap is dry( will get make in a bit). When you say “how was it installed?” what exactly do you mean? Also, how definitive is an inline spark plug tester. It lights up but not much. Is “not enough spark” a “thing”? One more thing - I have every single paperwork for every service since ‘76 and they mention several times (more recently) something about cold start needs addressing. the mechanic also mentioned cold start being tougher. It’s a lot colder today than all other days. I thought ‘no gas’ but would starter fluid show signs of life? The carbs were cleaned up but not rebuilt. Wonder if they are inoperable after being driven their first 50 miles in 18 years (I had fun while it lasted). thanks

Sorry, should have listed - removed distributor cap and checked for condensation. Found none. - spark plugs / wires were replaced Will get distributor manufacturer in a bit.

I bought this '76 2002 about 2 weeks ago. It hadn't been driven much, if at all, since 2005. So I had it towed directly to a great mechanic (who I will also reach out too) to get it baseline operational. I know it will need more work. He did a tune up, new distributor, points, hoses, cleaned out the carb, etc. etc. He gave it a preliminary clean bill of health. It was really running great... for a week. Then it rained really hard for two days so I wasn't able to start it. Now it won't start. Listen to video and let me know where you would start based on what you hear. It just doesn't sound like there is spark however: - the battery is strong - the starter is strong - it turns over strong - I sprayed start fluid in the carb and it had no effect on the behavior/sound - I used an inline spark plug tester and there was a spark (can't say how strong) I'm new to this but I find troubleshooting pretty fun so any step-wise test plans are welcomed. Here is a video: Thanks!

Thanks Lucky7 but per what I learned from this thread and specifically Les02, I posted in the Wanted section and voila. I have a replacement turn signal already on the way. Btw - I just bought my 2002 last Saturday and this was only my second post. I am 2-for-2 on great advice form the folks here. Thanks everyone!

1976 front left signal assembly

I didn't realize the signal assembly could be replaced at a reasonable price. When I search online they are all $100's of dollars. I will place an ad and see if one is available out there.

My 1976 Front/Side Blinker assembly has a broken socket reflector (not functioning). It was fixed by PO with zip tie but not sure that is gonna be possible again. No way I am replacing the entire assembly. Is the fix this just a case of wiring a new socket (with leads) and getting clever mounting it in there? I am hoping someone recalls another post/fix with the same issue.. preferably with pictures. On the same topic, I am trying to remove the offending socket/reflector and having a hell of a time getting the upper contact tab out of the plastic. The attached picture shows the break in red and the stuck tab in yellow. Can someone tell me the trick to removing this? I'd like to be delicate in case my 'clever fix' requires the old reflector be in no more than 2 pieces. Thanks!

Thanks everyone. You are right, the sink is probably stereo related and the 'lever' is not a 'lever' at all but rather, a kickstand to keep the head unit from bouncing up and down. Well, the old Yamaha will be coming out pretty soon so all will be revealed. thanks.

Worth mentioning that I bought this 1976 2002 yesterday. I am completely new to BMW's and car wrenching in general. Was doing my first at-home once over this morning and came across this lever and heat sink in the console. It doesn't appear factory and doesn't seem to have any effect on the idle. It would appear that the heat/cooling blower does not work so may be related to that but wouldn't be able confirm. Sorry I don't know more but thought I would ask before digging in further.