Birdie

This step by step is quite helpful except that it glosses over how to get the screw from under the chrome clip on the armrest. Can anyone clarify how the chrome clip is moved/removed to access this third screw? would rather not “experiment”.

Looking for a set of front Euro (flush) turn signals. Preferably no lens cracks. Can be anywhere in the world but just in case it makes things easier - I'm in the SF Bay Area.

@Conserv indeed, that is quite a gap. this makes me think all is normal with my setup. thanks.

thanks @Son of Marty. to clarify the sides seems to line up well. however, it is the center nose area of the bumper that seems very far from the center nose of the car. it is a very big gap. and yes.. so many threads on the conversion. I am in possession of a Bluntech kit and was ready to go until... "huh, that sure seems like a big gap between the center of the bumper and the center panel (below the grill)..."

I am planning to retrofit chrome bumper on to my '76. Got my hands of a very nice chrome bumper which unbeknownst to me turned out to be from a 1602. When I hold it up to my car and align the slotted side flanged bolt connection to the area where it will be attached to the fender, it sticks out quite a ways from the front nose area. Were 1602 and 2002 cars shaped differently and therefore, the bumpers are shaped differently?

@esty 's suggestion is near term: remove the entire plastic plug sending unit from the metal housing and replace it with a pipe plug of equal diameter/thread... bleed brakes, etc. @Son of Marty's suggestion is long term: remove the pressure differential valve completely and 'splice' the hard lines together using 2 brake pipe unions. bleed brakes, etc. I've not used these before: Is it difficult to get the hard lines 'lined' up properly? I realize I could hop on Youtube and maybe answer these questions but if you could expand a little on your suggestion I'd appreciate it. I'm very intrigued. Thanks

Thanks for all the responses. A couple follow up questions / observations: With only a little fiddling (I couldn't help myself) the electrical tanged 'plug' on this component came right off... and the tiny little spring inside went flying.. yet to be found. It is, indeed, leaking now. Not a lot but it's a leak. What are my options near term / long term 1. I like to drive my car pretty much every day. This new leak is really going to cramp my style. Any suggestions on a quick temporary fix? 2. @Stevenc22 When you say plumb the brake lines directly to the MC, I assume you are suggesting all new new hard lines? If 'yes', is this something you recommend making or buying? any feedback is appreciated. slow leaks... 😞

Per the title, can someone point me in the right direction for a replacement part in the picture. As well, it seems to have separated in two (see picture). Is this piece actually two pieces or is the a full failure (break)? If the piece with the electrical tangs separates will brake fluid come pouring out freely or is it sealed on the inside?

I did not know that. I went with the URO. That is great news. What a load off. Thanks for the clarification.

Quick follow up request for advice: I was just notified that some of the items I ordered (Pelican) are out of stock and could take weeks to arrive from Germany. Grommet - Brake Master Cylinder to Reservoir (17 X 6.5 mm) Washer Part #: 34-31-4-650-172-BOE I’ve checked other sites FCP etc and they are 30 day deliveries. Any suggestions on where to get a compatible grommet / washer in short order? Is eBay good for this? Thanks.

@Mikesmalaga72 great advice on all fronts. A quick clarification: when you say "vacuum pump out the fluid" what exactly are you suggesting? Can you describe that process to me? btw - all parts suggested have been ordered except for replacement brake fluid feed lines - good call on that..

Thanks guys. Quick follow up question. I see that the replacement MC's come with a single seal (grommet) - which makes sense. However, while the MC is out I'd like to replace the corresponding seal on the Booster side. Any idea where I might find that part. As well, is it worth replacing other parts of this assembly, like the plastic angles which lead to reservoir? Thanks again, I do not like to start on projects in a vacuum so folks' personal experience is very helpful..

My brake fluid is pretty much pouring out at the junction of the master cylinder and booster. I can't yet tell if it the fluid is coming out of the weep hole (will confirm later today) or just through the seals and I am not sure if it has any bearing on the prescribed fix. It may also be getting into the booster (smell, idle, etc). I have read as many relevant articles here on the trusty 2002faq as I could find and am ready to embark on the repair. However, I am hoping to get some input from folks on several things prior. Btw - I love tips, tricks and step-by-steps if folks have anything to share. 1. With that said, do folks recommend a completely new master cylinder or just the repair kit? New Cylinder: BMW Brake Master Cylinder Uro Parts 34311113656 UR34311113656 UR.34.31.1.113.656 UR 34 31 1 113 656 | Pelican Parts WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Uro Parts Brake Master Cylinder InStock Ships Today! $102.50. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# 34311113656 UR 34 31 1 113 656 UR.34.31.1.113.656 UR34311113656. 2002, 1602. Repair Kit: BluntTech Industries • REPAIR KIT BRAKE MASTER WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM Rebuild kit for brake master cylinder on non-tii cars. I do take a bit of pride in 'fixing' things and I am therefore, drawn to the idea of the simple seal replacement. However, I am not penny wise, pound foolish. If, at the end of the project, the +$100 offers a far greater assurance of long term success then, by all means, new MC. Opinions? 2. For context, this car sat for 18 years and I have been going through it for a few months now. I am sure you can all imagine the list of things that are going wrong. About 2 weeks ago I had stainless steel brake lines put in. Pretty sure the added brake pressure exposed the weak seals. This is to say that all the brake lines were just bled during that process. My question is therefore, do I have to bleed the entire system to all four wheels for this procedure. Considering the air will be getting in at the very top of the system is there any way to minimize this? I get it's not a huge deal but I do want to learn from the pros (that's you folks) of any tips tricks. As well, any way to minimize the mess when I detach the master cylinder from the booster... or is the fluid just going to go everywhere? Hopefully folks can give me a professional no details spared step-by-step list of things to make my procedure as pragmatic as possible. That includes detaching and reattaching all brake lines to the MC. I read some folks there was a proper order to the reinstallation. Thanks in advance.

you probably correct that shipping would be a budget buster. that said, let's see where this thread goes and I'll reach out if necessary. thanks.

Looking for driver quality rear long euro bumper with plastic impact strip. Do not require over riders but seam covers would be a bonus. Do not need mounting brackets as I will use new conversion kit. Let me know what's out there and what an 'entry' grade bumper will cost me these days.

WTB: Looking for a single chrome belt trim piece: front driver side quarter panel.

Good catch.. Any idea which part number is for the knee trim plastic fastener? I only need 2 so hoping to find on eBay / 2002faq. Thanks,

Perfect. I will be working in downtown tomorrow, Geary and Market. I'll come by sometime after 9:30. A great excuse to get out of the office.

Thanks reaching out. Wasn’t sure how important it was to work on period similar bmw sheet metal for reasons of thickness and metallurgy. Where your shop located and I’ll swing by.

1976 2002. When I got the car one piece of knee trim was off. I found a replacement here on 2002faq. Interestingly, there were a few plastic clips in the glove box. However, the male post was too big for the sheet metal hole (like way too big) and the clip side was too small to click behind the knee trim flanges. It was old yellowed plastic and fairly random so I ordered new plastic knee trim clips but when they arrived. Same thing. I even popped off another knee trim segment and same thing. Post too big, click mechanism too small. I inquired from the seller and he sent me the OE part number and spec (see attachment)... It seems likes it's me, not him. My question is, what am I missing? Is there a different part number / size clip for my 76 that I am not aware of?

I am looking to do some practice body work: welding, sanding, filler, priming, etc. before moving on to my actual car. Does anyone know of a place in the SF Bay area where I could pick up a scrap panel in person or if need be, purchase online, here, and have it shipped? Thanks in advance.

@John76 I love your diagrams and just came across this one - right when I needed it. I have highlighted 2 areas that would be helpful to have clarification and/or pictures of your exact setup: 1) Where the Charcoal Canister out line T's with the crank case vent, is that a "V hose" of varying diameter hoses or some sort creation with a T? I'm not familiar with a hose of this nature. A picture would be great. Is the vacuum line in this hose assembly left open or does it go somewhere (just not in the diagram)? Just fyi, my charcoal canister outline is currently connected to the vacuum port at the base of my carb. Along with fuel regulator vacuum via a T connection. 2) Is the vacuum line in #2 also left open or does it also go somewhere (just not in the diagram)? As mentioned above, my fuel regulator vacuum is currently going to the base of the carb, along with the fuel regulator vacuum via a T connection. You probably don't recall from the quick peek you took under my hood in Los Gatos but my current setup is very different than the schematic in your diagram and frankly a bit of a mess, so I am looking forward to tidying it up. Thanks and pictures are always appreciated.

Success! The loud click is gone and indeed, the clutch feels much better. I began with the a rag in a shoe shine motion over the push rod. The push rod remained stationary as the rag went back and forth. Soon enough though, the push rod began to move along with the rag and I realized the magic was happening. Btw, @John76 what is your heavy grease of choice for road exposed applications like this? Thanks everyone!