Birdie

Interesting that you believe I can make some tacks on the interior that won’t blemish the exterior paint. What gauge/profile steel do you think would be suitable for this beam? Actually something just came to mind. The diameter of the holes in the door skin that accept plastic belt trim clips are smaller than stock. Stock clips won’t fit. I think I’ve seen after market doors that do not come with holes. Therefore, I’m going w, I have aftermarket doors. And thanks for broader context - it’s always helpful.

So in summary, considering I don't care to paint my car right now, tack welding a beam on to the interior of my door panel is not a great option as it will surely blemish my already crappy paint. I do plan to paint in the future and will re evaluate my door at that time. I could "temporarily" adhese a beam to the skin with epoxy, etc. Being careful not to make a continuous connection so that water can make its way down and out. I don't love this kind of fix so.. Therefore, I think I will start with nothing more than sound deadening and see what that offers in the way of rigidity. While not my dream fix it might do for now and when I repaint, maybe I concoct a clever way to weld a beam that also lets water flow down. One last thing for what it's worth - in reading this thread I realize that it is important to use single vertical strips of sound deadening, thus avoiding any horizontal seams where water can get between the SD panels. Will post pics and results - good or bad - when complete.

@JsnPpp any chance for a pic?

Excellent feedback gents. It is a '76 and I thought that when I pulled the door card I would surely find some sort of beam stiffener. But alas, nothing. Definitely a replacement of some sort. Yes, the plastic acella cloth was in place and as you can imagine, very old and brittle. I will be replacing it once I figure out what to do with the "oil canning" panel (learned a new term this morning and already throwing it around liberally). With winter around the corner I think I'll throw on some deadening, adhese some new acella cloth and close her up for the rainy season. Can evaluate the outcome between now and spring time.

My 2002 was acquired this year (2023) and I have always noticed a knock/clunk when closing the driver's door. I am also aware that the driver's side has had a fair bit of body work done over the years. Turns out the knock/clunk is the door panel reverberating upon impact. Check out this video of how just how thin and 'unstructured' the panel is. First: Is it a good bet that this is a replacement door skin and either a cheap one or just one that was poorly installed? Second: Does anyone have a clever idea for a fix that doesn't require a door tear down? I'm thinking of ways to reinforce the skin from the inside. I can weld but matching the shape of the door with a metal sheet sounds fairly complicated in and of itself. One thing of mention: I had the passenger door card off recently, refurbishing the window mechanism, and noticed some sort of - what was once - semi-flexible sheet material applied to the inside of the door panel (see pic below). Almost like sound proofing. It had been painted at some point (the other door might be a replacement too). Wondering if something like this would be enough to stabilize the weak driver's panel. All feedback/ideas welcomed.

Five-out-of-five stars for this project. If you have a paper clip in your Hazard switch like I did - just make a little time (<1 hour np) and perform this fix. It's easy and a lot of fun. Keep that old part working - don't replace with a new part unless you have to. I used a single, much smaller screwdriver (eye glasses screwdriver) than the ones in the pics earlier in this thread. And as I separated the male clip from it's female square, I inserted little segments of a paper clip that I pre-cut. After mostly making my way around (not all of the clips had to be separated) the switch came open. Nothing dramatic, no springs popping out, nothing to worry about. Bent the tang per the entries above (doesn't take much), put some grease in the channel and boom: 47 year old fully functional Hazard switch. I am always really happy when I get to keep an original part on the car.

@Rich Oh no! So, I certainly posted the abridged story of my odometer fix. Everyone knows, but no one wants to hear the iterative desperation these projects can require. Even if you’ve resolved your issue my less abridged story below may help. I also had to remove my newly vice pressed pin from the assembly - three times. I won’t go into why (but once bc of misaligned numbers). Each time was more harrowing. So first and foremost, I would secure the numbers. Some videos on YouTube recommend scotch tape and it worked for me. I repeatedly removed the shaft by prying under the sprocket with a very small flathead screwdriver. And not just the sprocket but the base of the sprocket that keeps the actual sprocket from touching the assembly. First, by simply rotating the flat head (not truly prying) and then using progressively larger flatheads. The tricky part was stopping at just the right spot so as to switch to the nail and pushing by hand. And, I know it’s too late but a vice is preferred to pliars for any number of reasons - the most important is less chance of catastrophic failure. Best of luck. Let me know how it goes.

Great project. Lots of fun. Thanks for the write up and subsequent comments everyone. A piece of tape on the numbers will help keep them in line throughout the process. It can be very frustrating to try and get the numbers realigned should they move. Tough lesson. 🙂 I should mention that just about every connection from the Speedo to the failed friction fit needed attention: degrease/regrease. The friction fit was just the final fix. Definitely don’t need much distortion on the shaft to get a good friction fit. I found pressing the shaft with a vice to be a much safer method of reassembly. I could push the temporary nail out and the permanent shaft back to where the friction fit was firm but no further (not sticking back out the other side). The vice inserted the shaft just that last little bit… slowly and safely. Test on drill. Be sure to clean up the speedo window while you’re in there. It looks great. Highly recommended project.

This step by step is quite helpful except that it glosses over how to get the screw from under the chrome clip on the armrest. Can anyone clarify how the chrome clip is moved/removed to access this third screw? would rather not “experiment”.

Looking for a set of front Euro (flush) turn signals. Preferably no lens cracks. Can be anywhere in the world but just in case it makes things easier - I'm in the SF Bay Area.

@Conserv indeed, that is quite a gap. this makes me think all is normal with my setup. thanks.

thanks @Son of Marty. to clarify the sides seems to line up well. however, it is the center nose area of the bumper that seems very far from the center nose of the car. it is a very big gap. and yes.. so many threads on the conversion. I am in possession of a Bluntech kit and was ready to go until... "huh, that sure seems like a big gap between the center of the bumper and the center panel (below the grill)..."

I am planning to retrofit chrome bumper on to my '76. Got my hands of a very nice chrome bumper which unbeknownst to me turned out to be from a 1602. When I hold it up to my car and align the slotted side flanged bolt connection to the area where it will be attached to the fender, it sticks out quite a ways from the front nose area. Were 1602 and 2002 cars shaped differently and therefore, the bumpers are shaped differently?

@esty 's suggestion is near term: remove the entire plastic plug sending unit from the metal housing and replace it with a pipe plug of equal diameter/thread... bleed brakes, etc. @Son of Marty's suggestion is long term: remove the pressure differential valve completely and 'splice' the hard lines together using 2 brake pipe unions. bleed brakes, etc. I've not used these before: Is it difficult to get the hard lines 'lined' up properly? I realize I could hop on Youtube and maybe answer these questions but if you could expand a little on your suggestion I'd appreciate it. I'm very intrigued. Thanks

Thanks for all the responses. A couple follow up questions / observations: With only a little fiddling (I couldn't help myself) the electrical tanged 'plug' on this component came right off... and the tiny little spring inside went flying.. yet to be found. It is, indeed, leaking now. Not a lot but it's a leak. What are my options near term / long term 1. I like to drive my car pretty much every day. This new leak is really going to cramp my style. Any suggestions on a quick temporary fix? 2. @Stevenc22 When you say plumb the brake lines directly to the MC, I assume you are suggesting all new new hard lines? If 'yes', is this something you recommend making or buying? any feedback is appreciated. slow leaks... 😞

Per the title, can someone point me in the right direction for a replacement part in the picture. As well, it seems to have separated in two (see picture). Is this piece actually two pieces or is the a full failure (break)? If the piece with the electrical tangs separates will brake fluid come pouring out freely or is it sealed on the inside?

I did not know that. I went with the URO. That is great news. What a load off. Thanks for the clarification.

Quick follow up request for advice: I was just notified that some of the items I ordered (Pelican) are out of stock and could take weeks to arrive from Germany. Grommet - Brake Master Cylinder to Reservoir (17 X 6.5 mm) Washer Part #: 34-31-4-650-172-BOE I’ve checked other sites FCP etc and they are 30 day deliveries. Any suggestions on where to get a compatible grommet / washer in short order? Is eBay good for this? Thanks.

@Mikesmalaga72 great advice on all fronts. A quick clarification: when you say "vacuum pump out the fluid" what exactly are you suggesting? Can you describe that process to me? btw - all parts suggested have been ordered except for replacement brake fluid feed lines - good call on that..

Thanks guys. Quick follow up question. I see that the replacement MC's come with a single seal (grommet) - which makes sense. However, while the MC is out I'd like to replace the corresponding seal on the Booster side. Any idea where I might find that part. As well, is it worth replacing other parts of this assembly, like the plastic angles which lead to reservoir? Thanks again, I do not like to start on projects in a vacuum so folks' personal experience is very helpful..

My brake fluid is pretty much pouring out at the junction of the master cylinder and booster. I can't yet tell if it the fluid is coming out of the weep hole (will confirm later today) or just through the seals and I am not sure if it has any bearing on the prescribed fix. It may also be getting into the booster (smell, idle, etc). I have read as many relevant articles here on the trusty 2002faq as I could find and am ready to embark on the repair. However, I am hoping to get some input from folks on several things prior. Btw - I love tips, tricks and step-by-steps if folks have anything to share. 1. With that said, do folks recommend a completely new master cylinder or just the repair kit? New Cylinder: BMW Brake Master Cylinder Uro Parts 34311113656 UR34311113656 UR.34.31.1.113.656 UR 34 31 1 113 656 | Pelican Parts WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Uro Parts Brake Master Cylinder InStock Ships Today! $102.50. Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# 34311113656 UR 34 31 1 113 656 UR.34.31.1.113.656 UR34311113656. 2002, 1602. Repair Kit: BluntTech Industries &bullet; REPAIR KIT BRAKE MASTER WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM Rebuild kit for brake master cylinder on non-tii cars. I do take a bit of pride in 'fixing' things and I am therefore, drawn to the idea of the simple seal replacement. However, I am not penny wise, pound foolish. If, at the end of the project, the +$100 offers a far greater assurance of long term success then, by all means, new MC. Opinions? 2. For context, this car sat for 18 years and I have been going through it for a few months now. I am sure you can all imagine the list of things that are going wrong. About 2 weeks ago I had stainless steel brake lines put in. Pretty sure the added brake pressure exposed the weak seals. This is to say that all the brake lines were just bled during that process. My question is therefore, do I have to bleed the entire system to all four wheels for this procedure. Considering the air will be getting in at the very top of the system is there any way to minimize this? I get it's not a huge deal but I do want to learn from the pros (that's you folks) of any tips tricks. As well, any way to minimize the mess when I detach the master cylinder from the booster... or is the fluid just going to go everywhere? Hopefully folks can give me a professional no details spared step-by-step list of things to make my procedure as pragmatic as possible. That includes detaching and reattaching all brake lines to the MC. I read some folks there was a proper order to the reinstallation. Thanks in advance.

you probably correct that shipping would be a budget buster. that said, let's see where this thread goes and I'll reach out if necessary. thanks.

Looking for driver quality rear long euro bumper with plastic impact strip. Do not require over riders but seam covers would be a bonus. Do not need mounting brackets as I will use new conversion kit. Let me know what's out there and what an 'entry' grade bumper will cost me these days.

WTB: Looking for a single chrome belt trim piece: front driver side quarter panel.