1968BMW2000

Got it - Thanks Zinz!

Does anyone know where I can find a copy of the workshop manual and the owners manual for this car? I just bought one and I wanted to look up a few things. THANKS!

Yep - Checked and replaced all fuses, cleaned all contacts. The bulb looked fine but I didn’t swap the reverse light bulbs to double check - I’ll try that to make sure it’s not the bulb. I don’t think that’s the issue but I’ll make it part of the process of elimination. Thanks!

Brake light issue fixed - brake light switch was stuck - cleaned it and works fine. All other issues remain.

I have a perplexing electrical issue. My 1968 2000 has the following problem: 1. When the headlight knob is pulled out to the first position (running lights position) both tail lights and front running lights work fine. 2. When the headlight knob is pulled out to the second position (full headlights) the left tail light goes out. 3. When I put the car into reverse, only the left reverse light comes on under all conditions. 4. No brake lights under all conditions. 5. Blinkers work fine, front and back. 6. All dashboard lights work fine, as does the interior cabin light. 7. The light used to work fine. I recently took out the clock to fix it and I don’t know if I shorted something - I did get some sparks as I forgot to disconnect the battery while pulling out the power connector to the back of the clock. But I actually have no ides if the problem existed before. 8. Heater fan does not come on - it used to work fine before. Help!!! My electrical knowledge, in terms of testing, is very limited, but I have a multimeter that I can use if I’m given basic instructions on how to test. I checked the brown earth wire in the trunk as someone said that might be the issue but everything seems fine. I took out the panel insider the dash and all wires seem snug and secure. What on earth could be the problem? Any ideas or testing tips to zero in on the issue.

I want to grease the 2 universal joints in the drive shaft and was wondering if a standard grease gun would fit. And what grease would you recommend? Anyone do this before? Also - anyone know where I can buy Bosch FT1 V4 and FT1 V22 grease for the distributor? Or alternatives available for the US market? thanks!!

Has anyone ever installed the rubber weatherstripping that goes around the actual door? I ordered the original weatherstripping, which was frightfully expensive, but I’m finding it hard to install. In particular it’s hard to get the strip into the slot that goes around the window. In addition once it’s in the slot, it’s very hard to get the adhesive between the rubber and inside the slot. Any installation tips?

I’m going to answer my own question in case someone has this same issue in the future…. Warm up the rubber buffer so it becomes more pliable - it the only way to get it in without the rubber breaking.

I ordered a door brake which came without the black rubber buffer inside it. See picture. BTS is sending me the buffer but I have no idea how you insert it. It seems like there is no easy way to do it but I’m sure someone has experimented with this before and has a solution! Any thoughts?

Thank you all. I’ll check and let you know what worked!

Thanks Kiva667 - looked on W&N - not available. It’s frustrating. Looked everywhere for it! The only solution is to find an acceptable rubber strip to replace the rotted one without replacing the entire sill. Any thoughts on how or where to find a strip that will fit?

I need to replace the horizontal rubber strip that is on the outside of the window which keeps rain from getting into the door cavity. I believe the part number is 51326654230 but that could be the chrome trim as well. I just need the rubber strip to replace the cracked and broken one I have now. It looks like that part in NLA and I’m trying to figure out where I can get one or if someone has found a work-around using some other rubber weather stripping. I was able remove the chrome strip and working on removing the old damaged rubber from under the u- channel but holding off until I know I can find a replacement strip. Any ideas or suggestions?

Does anyone know if these door buffer pieces and the related piece on the latch itself (so eloquently and aptly described as a “doohickey’” in this thread) is available anywhere?

So good news. I got under the car and used penetrating oil on all the moving parts past the slave and pedal linkages inside the car. Problem solved it seems. Took the car for a long drive using the clutch frequently with no problem. Fingers crossed.

Thank you both for the quick response. I’ll poke around this weekend and see if I can fix. But when you say the rubber hose from the reservoir to the slave, are you referring to this? Circled in attached pic. And after flushing clutch and brake lines, just replace with standard brake fluid? Sorry for the dumb questions but I’m new to this. I’m very good with my hands but need to know what the hell I’m doing before I get going! Also attached some interior pics. thanks!

Hi everyone I just imported a 1968 BMW 2000 in pretty mint condition - never been restored very low mileage - 55k km. However, I’m having some issues with the clutch i.e. it will often get stuck at the bottom and I have to use my toes to pull it up. Aggravating when you’re driving in traffic. I also hear kind of a snapping sound from a spring as release it under normal circumstances. The sound occurs somewhere around the midpoint of the release of the clutch pedal. Thoughts on what this might be. Also , does anyone know where I can buy the couch master and slave cylinders in the event that those need to be replaced . OEM preferably. Generally where’s the best place to buy parts online as I also need to replace the door seals on all the doors as age and Italian sun, where it was for 50 years, has taken it’s toll on the rubber. And lastly - is there a parts catalog available anywhere?? Seems like there is plenty info out there for the 2002 but not much on the 2000’s. Thanks!!!