Roverguy

Good to know I'll check my wire, is it thicker than normal?

Thanks guys, ordered a manual choke from Blunt.

As for rebuild, yes I do a thorough cleaning of all the passageways.

After fiddling some more with it I discovered a leak at the acceleration pump.

The cheap Chinese rebuild kit's diaphragm would just twist at the screws and leak.

I replaced it with my original which was much heavier and the car ran better, to the point I could actually get it to idle.

Drove OK, under heavy steady acceleration it pulled good, but when it the secondaries kicked in it bogged and then caught.  I did replace the power valve.

Honestly, $45 for a carb kit and almost 3 hours of my time; I just said the heck with it and will start fresh.

I have lots of other things to attend to, so hopefully this will resolve the driveability issues.

Thanks for all the info.

Thanks all; did the Seat belt bypass and we are good to go.

Appreciate the help.

My assumption is the jetting currently is correct for the car.

I'd prefer to just have it sent with jets, vs. transferring my old ones.

Guess I need to make a call, as Blundt didn't list weber on line from my search.

And, I presume the Amazon guys are just quick pack and shop warehouses with little or no tech suport.

Does Redline just distribute, or do they sell to the public?

I also noticed a newer style water choke that has the inlet/outlet straight across instead of at an angle, which makes adjusting the choke really difficult as the hoses get jammed against the manifold and other piping.

Thanks for the feedback.

After attempting to rebuild my Weber 32/36 I find I am in the market for a new one as the old is just too far gone.

Symptoms are car will barely run on primary circuit, but I can keep it running by continuously working the throttle.

I cleaned all the circuits to no avail. No apparent vacuum leaks.

The secondary circuit allows the engine to run fairly smoothly when I rev or hold the pedal down.

Freshly flushed fuel tank and filter.

Anyway; looking for the best place to purchase one that can ship it within a day or two to Boston.

The carb appears to he quite old, so I am assuming it has been on the car for sometime.

Many offers on Amazon for replacement for jeeps and Toyota, but no mention of jetting.

One last question; do I replace my water choke with a manual or electric, or keep as is.

Thanks 

Thanks,  where are you located?

What kind of $ you looking for?

Were they out of running cars?

Any history?

Gary 

On the mass nh border n. Shore 

Anyone know this shop.

I can't seem to find any shops in the ,s New England are that will do transmission repair.

I've called most of the recommended places and most say they would just recommend a good used one, or a 5 speed conversion.

I'm quite sure I've just got a bad front input shaft bearing, as its noisy, but shifts fine.

Based on some receipts I have Motortec did rear mainshaft and countershaft bearings for the  previous owner about 8 years ago.

Was wondering if its worth a call to them?

Any thoughts?

Thanks 

While I'm waiting for my Radiator and fuel tank to come back from the shop I am researching a rebuild of my noisy tranny.

I may milk it till after the driving season, but I picked up a used box this weekend that I was thinking of having rebuilt, but it's history is unknown.

My box shifts fine, I think it's a front input shaft bearing.  If that's It I could probably just do it myself; assuming no special tools.

But if I send a box out I know I should be good for a long time.

Any recommendations of where I can bring my box in the Boston, S. NH area to have it rebuilt?

I

Thanks. Will look at that.

Who knows what the crazy PO did!

74,  where is the bypass?

I actually tried putting my seat belt on.

BTW, my fasten seat belt dash light has never come on since I bought the car.

I Usually go through all grounds and connectors whenever I get a new/old vehicle, not this one yet, except  the battery cables and chassis ground next to the battery.

Can someone confirm if there is supposed to be a + from the coil to the starter per the wiring diagram?

One step forward, 2 back.

Planned on taking the car for an inspection today and I could not get it to keep running.  Defiantly a fuel issue cause if I kept the revs up it would run. 

It was so bad that I had to restart it about 15 time and tried to keep it going to no avail.

The last time it shut down I noticed the fuel and temp gauge went dead.

Now I have no power to either gauge, or the starter motor.

I have 12v on the hot side of the starter from the battery.

Battery is at 12.5 volts; used start mode with my charger, still nothing.

So here is the weird thing, I have the heavy 12v from battery and the 2 neg.

But there is not red/black to the small tab on the relay!

I don't see a loose wire hanging.

My pos. on the coil has a solid red running to my Allison Electronic ignition and a second wire running to the ballast resistor.

When the key is turned to start I get the "L" light lite.

When it is in run the "B" & "L"

I even ran a jumper from the + coil terminal to the starter, no deal.

Of potential note I had just replaced my Ignition rotor, but don't see any wires I may have disturbed.

I am thinking I potentially have a bad ignition switch from all the attempts at starting?

You guys have been great with your assistance; it has been greatly appreciated.

I've been chasing a stumble under certain conditions. 

Cruising at 30-35 not accelerating 2500 rpm or so I get this stumble, almost like it wants to stall, but under constant acceleration it pulls fine.

If I hit it hard it balks a bit, but then once I hit the secondaries it kicks in just fine.

I'm attributing it to the old gas that was in the car.  Since I drained the tank, replaced all the filters and ran a tank or so of fresh 93 it's gotten better.

I've done a minor cleaning of the throats and jets with the carb on the car.

Its a 32/36 Weber.  Next is to do a complete rebuild of the carb.

New plugs and wires, old plugs were nice and tan.

New cap and non rev limiting rotor going on tomorrow.

Since car is new to me and I have no "recent" maintenance records I'm going to baseline everything so I know its new.

Thought on this being fuel/not ignition?

Thanks, if the non rev works it's $20 less,

Hi Gang:

My 02 currently ha a rev limiter rotor.  Can I substitute it for a non rev limiter rotor?

We do that on early 911's all the time with no issues.

FYI my distributor no is 0231 188 002 JDF. No vacuum advance?  Is that correct?

FYI, guy from Bav auto said to stick with what I currently have, but didn't sound that knowledgeable.

Tried to search, didn't find answer; sorry if a repeat.

Ok, thanks on the garage comments.

After my parents passed we sold their house and did a lot of needed rehabs on the house.  Kitchen, LR screened porch.when we were done my bride got me going on the garage.

I was gonna just do a nice spruce up.

It ended up being a  total makeover, commercial epoxy floor, cabinets, led lighting, heat, etc.

I gotta give her credit for helping me get it done.

We have no basement, so it's my workshop.

I can watch TV and work on my cars in my slippers in the winter!

The floor can handle a 5000lb safe and is impervious to almost any liquid.

This is what the 02 took place of.

After a great 7 year run it was time to give something else a try.

Thanks for the big welcome!

I like the bottlecaps, but someone chromed them. :-((.

And it's a dummy switch, as in blank.

Tdh

Good eyes, yes, it's a '70 that I'm doing a rolling resto on.

This will be my 4th Triumph.

Had 2 TR250s, before they were stupid expensive (late 70s) and a TR 3 that was close to a basket case.

This is a pretty rust free car

Oh, and I'll see if my locksmith can re set tumblers for trunk to door.

If not anyone have a used one?

It's a blank, no switch, I have front fog switch on lh side of dash.

Maybe I'll wire my elect cooling fan to that when I install.

Try this, West Marine probably has it, attach to side of console.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sea-dog-marine-abs-folding-drink-holder.html

Picked up my 02 last week.  Been doing some sorting out.  It has not been driven much in the last few years, so working on cleaning up the fuel system.

Two hopefully simple questions:

Is there a separate key to lock the trunk?

What is the green light next to the Hazard switch above the radio?

I have the owner's manual, but it's pretty thin on info.

I should be receiving my shop manuals within the next day or so.

A few pics.

Please don't kill me on the blingy bottle caps, those gotta go!

My pup on his first ride, he's usually in the back of my 4Runner or Jeep, so he is not sure about the back seat thing yet.

Thanks for any input.

p.s. can you pick out what's parked next to it in the garage?

Or you could head a little further South and check out this beauty.  Great description of the vehicle!

https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/d/1974-bmw-2002/6650115745.html

Sorry, it's Monday.