Roverguy

How can you be sure it's the same car?

It certainly has a bunch of goodies; looks like a header, but just a Weber 2bbll downdraft.

NFI:

Wish I had the room, lots of nice accessories, probably a parts car:

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/d/wilmington-1975-bmw-2002/6871889881.html
Just pulled from barn after 10 year hiatus. Yes, it's rusty but full of great period correct stuff. Ran when parked! I do not know much else about it. If you think this is for you, Please call Carl at eight oh 2 558 two 646. $2000 or first reasonable offer.

Agree with the crowd.

If you were touting a low mileage orig car it might make a diff, but what's the diff if a car has 90, or 125k?

Out of the last 4 classics I've owned all had some odo issue. Either not working, or swapped out.

The only one that really mattered much was my 82 911, but I had the orig broken odo and service records to before and after it crapped out. 

Finally had Hollywood Speedo add the 2 together to get true mileage of 102k.

Never an issue selling.

There are a lot of sc#m b%gs.

When i had my 911 up for sale last year someone stole my add, pictures and  all and listed it on Samba!

I contacted Samba, they investigated and banned the dude for life.

Got it.

I finally found the detail in Haynes manual.

So hack mechanic, no pun intended.

Guy who replaced the seal on the trans that was in the car not only had the washer under the nut, which meant I had to dig it out to get my 30 mm socket, but supposedly rebuilt the trans.  NOT! It had been pulled, who knows what was done, but had a nice shiney silver paint job.  It whined like a 48 Dodge square cut and within 100 miles would keep getting stuck in 2 gears.

The good box a fellow member gave me had no locknut, but the oil was really clean and it sounded nice and smooth when I turned it by hand.

Replaced front/rear/speedo/shift selector and rev light switch.

Truth will be told when I drive it.

Thanks for the help.

Final assembly on my 02 box.  The rear nut on the trans I'm putting in had the locking washer underneath the nut. My spare box had no nut!

Realoem seems to show the locking tab washer as going on last.  I am guessing once the nut is properly torqued the lock washed gets tapped into the housing with the washer lined up around the nut and the friction against the inside of the housing keeps it in place? Obviously with loctite also.

Please confirm.

Oh, and my helpers ?

Update.

Went to Napa to pick up some gasket cement.

Talking to the owner about what a PITA it was.

He suggested using a clear plastic report cover shaped like a funnel with oil on it.

Here's what it looks like in action.

The cover and seal went on almost by had and a slight tap with a small hammer.

After installing you gently pull the cover out in a circular motion and you're all set!

Conserv:

Nice Cibies, been a fan for years.

Used to sell them in the late 70, had them on all my cars.

Very high quality. I am quite sure the Cibie conversions are no longer the original cut off style like they used to be, that's what i recently heard from Daniel Stern.

BTW, if doing the conversions the city light option is a really cool inexpensive option.

Tnks, I'll give that a try. That's what i was thinking

Guess I'll get some RTV with the pointed tip and put some between the pan and block before I button it down.

Wish me luck.

Tried to get the main seal cover on yesterday.  Oil pan still in place.

For the life of me couldn't get the seal over the damper.

Think the pan is causing some of the problem, but maybe it's the pins?

Would it help to oval out the pins a little to allow some sloop to position it? 

Can't have more scope creep, need to get the car back on the road.

Thanks on the garage comment.  We did a major rehab of the house about 5 years ago, screened porch, kitchen, fireplace. 

About 3 mos after we finished my bride thought it would be nice to finish the garage; which was already paneled, insulated and heated, so we did the final finish,  I have no basement, so it's my workshop all year round.

She hasn't parked her car in the garage in 5 years!  And we live in New England; God bless her!

P.S. the 911 is gone, funded the 02 & more!

Finally found  some time last night.

15 minutes tilting front of engine as far up as i could and a bit of wiggling and out she came!

Thanks for the support gang. 

Now i need to do the to brg and rear main seal.

So, I know Bluntech is the place for parts, trying to compare Rockauto Sachs clutch part no as its almost $70 less.

That's for another thread.

Thanks again!

In not going down the rabbit hole of pulling my motor.

  :-))  

Wondering if my motor mounts are toast as there's barely any room between the pan and the cross member?

That may be impact the amount I can tilt the motor?

Thanks all.

There is nothing apparent external causing this hang up.

Everything is disconnected, plate removed.

Can someone tell me the best balance point for jack? I'm guessing about an inch or 2 in front of the drain plug.

That sounds like a PITA if pilot is stuck.

I've done a bunch of trans, never a BMW, never had the bush get stuck.

I can't turn the trans as it's stuck in 2 gears; one of the reasons I'm swapping.

I'll re assess the angle.

I was able to get it off the block with 2 small screw drivers and tapping them in gently as wedges.

Now I've used my 16" prybar around the bottom to no avail. 

So, top trans not even close to hitting firewall/tunnel, and engine not tipped back much at all.

Don't know why tipping it would make much diff, but I'll do that tomorrow night.

Cap is off and heavy piece of cardboard between fan and my new radiator.

Negative, it is turned, the trans is clearing the steering rod.

So, almost completed my solo trans drop.

Trans is on trolly jack, engine supported.

Trans is a good 2" off block.

Can't seem to get it the rest of the way off, no matter if I raise or lower the trans jack. Wiggling like crazy and trying to gently persuade evenly with a breaker.

Stuck on clutch disc?

Any ideas?

Maybe i need a 2nd pers to help wiggle and roll back?

Thanks.

Finally 4 hours got the driveshaft out.

Header and exhaust came out easy.

But the trans is stuck in 2 gears, so i can't get neutral, even with clutch down.

Getting the top 2 bolts off the guibo totally sucked, swivels, 16" extension and working blind.

Onto the trans tomorrow, wish me luck!

Started my trans drop today.  I have Stahl header and the intermediate pipe is welded to the header.  Exh. is one piece from header to front of rear resonator.

Even if I cut the front pipe at the header and sleeve it on replacement, it looks like header will be in way, even if I could remove the center section of the exhaust.

Looks like I may need to drop the whole system including the header. It's gonna be a b$&tch to get to the drive shaft and center support with the exhaust in too.

I'm going to drop the center link.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the reply, just hoping there was a way to sidestep the whole process, like laparoscopic surgery! 

I am trying to keep focused on the critical work I need to do, like swap my noisy 4 speed.

I could probably have that done in just a few more hours than the heater box.

Just got through phase 1 of my interior work, Vintage European Kenwood head unit, Vintage Yamaha 100W RMS amp in trunk powering a Yamaha 8", 4 Alpine 6-1/2" speakers, 2 in hat shelf, 2 in door replacing the 5" junk that was there. Bluetooth to FM frequency for Spotify.

Still not done tying up wires.

Plans for a gauge package below.

Charge the shipper for damage?

And yes, be sure it's nice and warm when you try and straighten it our if you go that route.

my 02 rear emblem was bent down between the #'s I just adjusted it by hand.