Roverguy

Ed:

That is the reduced price, from $800. It is more than fair for the setup.

Check out the Mikuni page refinished sets go for $1,500 & up without a manifold.

Decided to go in a different direction with my car.

I currently have a set of NOS stock clear/yellow Carellos that I got from a friend.

I've always been a CIBIE guy from the 70's but they are near impossible to find, and expensive if they are in good shape. Bumper was already drilled for a pair of lamps.

These go with my Italian BWAs better anyway.

Main beams are vintage Hella H4's with 65/100's.

If anyone has these revolutions on their 02 can you provide a picture?

Have lead on a set of 14's, but if you run 13's that would do.

Thanks!

A little history on front end protection:

Those big rubber protrusions developed from what was know as Dagmars, developed after WWII.

I am fortunate to own a pre rubber bumper TR6, but not a pre 74 '02.

I did the 1/2 hr front bumper tuck on my car, lost about 4-5" off the front. Next I have to do the rear.

Some interesting reading:

 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dagmar_bumper

Tucked my front on my 74,  About 2 hours and some gentle persuasion from a tree next to my garage!

Haven't done the rear yet.

Didn't even get to glue the accordion yet, but I cut it so it locks the two halves together.

Well worth the effort!

Thanks, so seeing as how I have one sitting here I may as well have my installer use it.

Hagerty will pay for all new seal (OEM) and trim piece.

Reviving old thread.

My 74 needs a new windshield.

MA has mandatory glass coverage, so Hagerty will pay for OEM if I want.

Problem is finding Siglia  now is pretty tough.

PO gave me a Siglia windshield with the car. My windows are slight green tint.

This one is very light green, with a green band across the top.

Anyone ever hear of that.

The part nos are different, but both DOT M91s.

Just curious.

Success!

After 3 assembly dis assemblies I got it right.

I believe I mis read the directions and had made the marr on the shaft under the last mile wheel which caused it to turn the same as the trip 10th.

Cleaned it up, marred the shaft under where the grey gear runs.

Biggest PITA is if you let the temporary pin slip down the #s won't mesh with the drive gear, when you align it to the drive gear it could be off a tooth.

Make sure you check the #s while the temp shaft is in.

You can wiggle it and push the drive gear on the offending # to the side and rotate it with a dental pick.

A little trial and error, because sometimes it looks aligned in the window, but then it moves a hair when it meshes with the gear.

Ask me how I know.

One last ?, speedo is kind of noisy and reads 10% fast, could it be the drum rubbing on the needle drive and causing it to spin faster than the magnet would?

Running 195-60-14, so don't think that's it. Will have to do the calcs.

Thanks for the help gang!

I cleaned up the shaft and reinserted.

Based on my bench test with my drill I think it is working.

Will install and go for a ride and report back.

Negative orig to car, dated 3/74.

Maybe I marred the shaft under the digit wheel also?

I'll  check tomorrow.

The shaft should only be marred under the white gear, correct?

I guess I wasn't clear.

The main, cumulative odo is 5 digits as you say, but my fifth, last digit to the right is rotating on the tenth of a mile. 

So, my OD on my 74 did not work from when I got it.

Finally got around to pulling it and doing the repair to the digit counter.

I pulled the shaft, made a ding in it and reinserted it so the gear had grip on the shaft.

Installed it and wala it works; but here is my question.  The trip works normally recording miles and tenth, but the last digit to the right which I would assume is the mile is changing on the tenth of a mile??

I have  5 digit odo as all do; that would make it a 1000 mile odo, 9999.

What's up with this..

Am I missing something?

I went to local hardware and got 20' of window screen spline for about $4 for the lenses.

Here are the Cibies with city lights on my 911.

Go old school Cibie . Order with the City light option, great for driving at dusk.

Check Daniel Stern's web page, he is a lighting engineer and knows his stuff.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

Lots of crap out there that is just plain dangerous.

NFI.

I have been running the Altimax for about 6 years, first the snows on my outback, then the rt43 on my wife's xc70t6.

They are a good performing tire.

Found another thread, looks like its a grease cup, not a retainer.  

I used some high temp grease on the pivot ball, I should be fine. 

All my boxes have a chrome ball as a pivot.

Realoem shows a small bush in and around the part of the throughout spring where it meets the pivot ball.

As others stated, once the slave is in the pressure it exerts on the fork seems like it will hold the fork on the ball.

As I stated earlier the box I pulled out did not have the bush and it was operating OK.

I should have googled this before I posted my ? 

Still not sure I understand what the small round bush is, or what it does.

My trans did not have one.

What's the plastic ball?

What is it?

A metal bush that holds the spring on the ball in the bell housing?

Can it go on with trans installed?

Finishing gearbox swap.

Includes new clutch assy.

I didn't see this part on my old box.

Do I really need it?

Can I substitute from  local hardware store.

BTW, box is back in, but slave/rod not installed yet.

Thanks.

Just texted guy, car in VT,  phone ringing off the hook.

Supposidly guy on his way to buy already.

This might be a bargain.

Wouldn't a stage 2 have sidedraft webers?