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FL7602

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Everything posted by FL7602

  1. FL7602
    OMG, 'the rod end it threaded'...........I've fought a button that was way way inside the handle shaft for years. I'll check this out tomorrow. I love this forum...... Skii
  2. FL7602
    Thanks to everyone for the posts back in 2020, I was in the same boat this morning. Needed to shorten the heater hose and bend the rod too. It worked out great....... Just need to safety the rod at the carb and move to the next thing on the list......
  3. FL7602

    New Shoes

    FL7602 commented on veronatii's blog entry in Verona Tii+

    Nice switch, I see why you had always wanted to move on from the Borbet's...... I guess that far north they would work for snows....🤪
  4. FL7602
    Hey folks, so good thoughts......... I had been told about the JBW fix, a friend has done this before with other OEM parts and has not had any issues. The Permatex product is great, it doesn't harden and I've used it on the bolts that need a little sealer and/or locking in place but not a loctite kind of fastening. The original part is NLA (duh, most stuff we need these days seems to have gone down that path). The replacement is for the E21 and if I remember correctly has two threaded ports so one just needs to be plugged and it's a direct fit, but +/- $200. Tech71, if you have a good used spare message me please. Thanks for the comments folks, I'm off to a work project for about a week then back under the hood. Last milestone was pre-oiling on Tuesday and all is well.
  5. FL7602
    I'm moving closer to installing cooling hoses and the rad. Pulled this out of the box and, well not so sure about this so it's up for a vote (everyone loves a survey, right...... 🤣) So good, bad, or junk? 👍 🩹 🚫
  6. FL7602
    Hey Buckeye, Thanks for the follow up. I've done exactly what you mentioned and installed the drive shaft yesterday. Skii
  7. FL7602
    Hey Toby, Yeah I ran into the 'Ed' post early this morning, that was what made me hesitate putting the driveshaft in today. I too believe its redundant but wanted the forum to think about it. My feeling, unless otherwise told differently, is the move on. I'm on the lift now since the engine/trans went in yesterday. Need to keep moving forward. One thought that crossed my mind is thehackmechanic didn't replace the bump stop when he got Louie running and drove it home all those years ago....... Skii
  8. FL7602
    So on to the next NLA part search. This goes on the leading end of the drive (propeller) shaft. This looks like something that could be made out of something else that would be available. My sense is most cars of our vintage that are on the road today don't actually have one of these installed because they crumble to dust and fully disappear, and we don't know it's missing. Anyone have any thoughts on, or hacks for this?
  9. FL7602
    Thanks to everyone that has helped out with this issue. I've talked to Metric Mechanic and they had a new 47.5 mm one stashed on a shelf in the shop. I should have it in a few days. On to the next thing for now.....
  10. FL7602
    Tommy, Thanks for the research here. I'm trying to order the part but when I do the online order it won't allow me to select shipping to the US. I've messaged them and requested help with that. Again, thank you very much and I'll let you know how it goes.
  11. FL7602
    Well everyone, trans is out and I've measured the TOB and it is in fact the 42.5 version. As Sam in VA says, mostly NLA all over the map. I called Max and they are out of stock now. I'll continue to try and find the 47.5 version but if anyone has a lead please pass it along. Five + weeks to the Vintage and I'm stuck.....
  12. FL7602

    FL7602

    FL7602 posted a Community Map marker in Members

  13. FL7602
    Dave, I've just installed your bracket on my 76, it went on perfectly with the Sanden clone compressor. Thanks for supporting the community and if you're still flying, stay safe out there.
  14. FL7602
    Thanks everyone for the comments, I'll be removing the tranny in the next day or so and work to find the right T/O bearing.........I'll return with the results when it's fixed. And yes the pressure plate is installed.....😁
  15. FL7602
    Short video of release arm travel.........painful to watch from this end....... IMG_1403.mov
  16. FL7602
    Preyupy, I don't have a pic of this going together, but I can see inside the bell housing and the release arm looks to be at the rear end of the T/O bearing, inserted into the wire clips on the back surface of the bearing. The release arm doesn't quite get to the trans case since the slave rod end pivots and gets hung up at the release arm external end. I've used Sachs P/N 3151 040 131 T/O bearing, will continue to research it. Pictures on a quick search look like what I have installed. My sense is the T/O bearing needs to be 'longer' or the pressure plate needs to be 'taller', or both......
  17. FL7602
    Conkitchen, The reason the pushrod is extended is because that is the travel required just to get the T/O bearing to the surface of the pressure plate. This is the static position, ie pedal up and at rest. I agree it looks a bit long without the dust boot installed..........
  18. FL7602
    Son of Marty, I've used Sachs P/N 3151 040 131 T/O bearing. I'm going to research the application but a quick look online isn't definitive........If you know if this is a 215 mm bearing let me know. The original parts are long gone, sad to admit but this came apart in 2003 when I had MM do the trans mods. Also, used a motive power bleeder AND did a full pedal travel bleed. I did the pedal travel bleed to be sure the pedal mechanism was not the issue (I got full travel from top to floorboard with no interference). I certainly can bleed again. Thanks,
  19. FL7602
    Hey all, Thanks for the feedback. I'm using the 'new' slave with the 'long' push rod. All new parts. See the pics, first is without the pushrod installed, second is the pushrod, third is pushrod installed (with dust boot removed). This release arm position is the static position, when the pedal is pushed the arm moves aft until the angle of the pushrod end stub interferes with the opening in the release arm and a hard stop on the pedal. Notice the limited space aft of the release arm as compared to the forward space in the trans case.
  20. FL7602
    I've mated the transmission (4-speed) with the engine prior to the installation of the assembly. The clutch was built up but the hydraulics were not installed until after the engine was in. The problem that I have is the pedal travel and associated slave cylinder travel bottoms with minimal pressure plate disengagement. Seems I've got too little travel of the throw out bearing once it reaches the pressure plate. I see a comment on one of the forums that says "Make sure the throw out bearing is oriented correctly. Ears of the throw-out bearing on the release arm, not in the slots." Is it possible I've got the release arm orientation wrong on the throw out bearing? There is a lot of inner release arm 'swing' aft of the pressure plate and the release arm seems to be positioned mostly aft in the transmission case opening, which also limits the external arm throw aft. FYI, Metric Mechanic 4 speed ultimate 232 trans, eight bolt 228mm flywheel and Sachs clutch kit, MM 2200 HiFlo ST Sport engine. All of this has been in hibernation for many many years, just now getting things back together.
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