michaelbend

11 hours ago, Simeon said:

 

As Toby would point out, these cars have one camshaft (well, maybe 2) but about a dozen different distributor combinations. Just verify that the 180 005 is the one originally installed on your engine. I wouldn’t trust 123 to get that right but at the same time I would not rely on what you find being installed either. 

 

Could these “weird engine vibrations” be ‘pinging’ (detonation, preignition etc)?

 

How did you set your timing? Ball at 1,400rpm? Again, when you are verifying the distributor model from the BMW manual check what timing specification they give for that distributor.   This assumes that you are timing it to the book. 

Thanks  for your advice Simeon.

I do really think it´s the original distributor.  I own this car for more than 25 years and when I bought it it was in pretty stock condition. Now it could be the only remaining orginal part in engine bay as I replaced almost every part with new ones.

With ¨weird engine vibrations¨ I mean the car feels like softly pushing back and forth when in 2500 rpm´s. (don´t know how to explain this it in technical words...)

Although the overall driving feeling is good,  my doubts arose because next to the distributor also replaced the Bosch Blue coil by the red one.

I also want to point that my mechanical skills only go as far as tightening bolts...

The timing was set with no timing light so i guess that´s the issue.

Will check today again with a skilled mechanic, and experiment with curve 0 as well...

On 6/12/2018 at 4:57 PM, Vicleonardo1 said:

The choices are:

1. Switched: 16 preset curves. 

2. Wired (USB) programmable 

3. Bluetooth (Wireless) programmable. 

 

Questions:  For those that purchased the switched version.

 

1. How has that worked for you? (I really haven't seen any complaints.) 

2. Have you discovered any deficiencies? 

3. Do you wish you purchased a programmable one? 

 

For those with the programmables: 

 

1. Did you have to change or tweak the curves a lot? 

2. Was the process difficult? and/or did it take a long time? 

 

For those like me that are afraid of opening the hood: 

Does one need to find a specialty shop to have one installed and dialed in? 

or could I drive up to Mintgrun's or Toby's house and chat (over some very expensive hand-delivered Cognac) and hope that they would demonstrate for me how one is installed and tuned? (Re-thinking this option... it may be cheaper to find a shop.....)  

As a matter of price I have chosen the switched version... saved almost a hundred over the Bluetooth...  IMOHO with 16 advance curves I think once switched, won´t touch it anymore...

So far so good.  Way better than points in driving feeling.

Just installed a 123 ignition (switched version) today.

I´m using advance curve number 1.  I have to admit this is kind of confusing.  According to 123 ignition manual  I should have to use curve number 0, but according to my distributor number (180 005) i should have to use curve number 1.

My car is a ´74 1602, and my distributor number is 180 005 instead of 004 as stated on 123 installation manual.

BTW.  I´m using a Bosch Red coil.

First impressions.  Car is running way better tan points.  More sensitive.  More quick response,  but in higher rpm´s i´m feeling weird engine vibrations... maybe i should be using a blue coil???

Will check timing again tomorrow.

Any advice / comment would be really appreciated!

As the tilte says.  Looking for a good condition diver´s side beige door panel. Complete with upper, hardware.

Please PM AC bracket price + Shipping to 33433

still available??

This is what caught my attention while looking at your pictures...

1. Air heater box
2. Seat belts
3. Shifter surround

PM prices.  Shipping to 33325

Looking for this part.

The plastic piece attached to the window regulator bracket.

This is another part needed.  Shifter surrond trim..

I am searching the plastic piece attached to the lower window regulator bracket. Hope you can help.

On 5/18/2016 at 12:48 PM, ClarenceTE72 said:

I can make you one from AutoCAD. It'll be a PDF conversion. You'll have to print it out and cut out yourself. If you'd like

Would you send me the PDF file of your model? I'm working on a template which I plan to put for free, but I do not have a real reference to work from.

My non working Frigiking AC will come out.

Thank you!

Work in progress..  My own custom built, center console panel sides.

Found this on a german website for 17 Euros each.

Does anyone have seen one of these here in the USA?

Number 17

Window sliding piece 51326454347

This is gold to me!!! Been in this nightmare for a year. Going the URO way got me slamming doors every day  and wondering how the hell get them soft... But, almost $300 (each side) for BMW brand rubber is completely ridicoulous to me, even they if they bring them from Mars...  Thank you!!

Apparently this part is available in some german websites

https://www.bts-autoteile.de/index.php/shop/1502-2002-turbo2013-04-23-12-02-57/karosserie-ausstattung-zierteile2013-04-23-12-02-57/6454347-detail

Sounds quite expensive to me at 18 euros each plus shipping (expensive too)....

Looking for a good condition plastic shifter surround (not cracked).

Please send me pictures and price.  to michaelbend@hotmail.com

Paypal payment.  Thanks!

Need the center console complete.  Sides + shifter surround,  mounting pieces. Please PM.

Great info! This is just what I needed!

Any pic of that part?

Thank you!! will try this fix down to the last detail.

I have the same problem and its driving me crazy.... any help will be soooo appreciated.  Thanks!

My passenger window slides up and down smooth.  My driver window rattles back and forth.... also will try a video.

I also want one.  Shipping to Miami.

On 2/13/2018 at 5:59 PM, TobyB said:

If you pull off the master, you just might find what looks like an acorn nut

sticking out of the end of the booster a bit, acting as the point of the pushrod.

If so, that's the adjustment for the travel, and you can shorten it just a bit so that the bleed port on

the master's uncovered.

 

It's more likely your pedal linkage is binding, but the result's the same- brakes that hydraulically lock on as they heat.

 

+1: E10 is not the 2002 chassis code.  E codes started a few years after 2002 production began...

 

t

 

On 2/13/2018 at 12:13 PM, AceAndrew said:

 

 

No worries.  The code "E10" is not the 2002 chassis reference code, hence my comment.  When someone mentions it, its usually indicative they are fairly new to the community (nothing wrong with that).

 

And +1 to Jeff/Andy's comments.  Be interesting to see what you find.

On 2/13/2018 at 11:55 AM, andyleonard said:

+1  If every time you push the brakes you add more pressure and it can't return, eventually the brakes will lock. There MUST be a little free play in the MC rod so the MC piston inside the cylinder can return fully to it's "bleed back" position. Check your linkage and maybe yank back on the brake pedal to make sure there isn't something in the floor/carpets/linkage binding it.

 

If you have the wrong rod or if something is mechanically preventing the MC from full return, pressure will build, locking the brakes. If this happens you can release pressure at the calipers/cylinders by opening the bleeders.

On 2/13/2018 at 11:34 AM, jireland2002 said:

It would help if you gave us more info.  It sounds like the pads are not retracting.  Probably do to the linkage fro the peddle to the booster.

UPDATE:  Everything´s fine now!  It was the pedal linkage and some pump/booster adjustment.  Thank you guys!!

My 02 fuel level sender is dead, and im in real trouble finding a new one (at least at a reasonable price...)  they are NLA everywhere... (tried bavauto, pelican parts, etc...)

I´m wondering if its a good idea to install an aftermarket solution like this ive found on amazon... any thoughts??  Thank you!

Fuel Level senders!