Jump to content

michaelbend

Solex
  • Posts

    91
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by michaelbend

  1. Contributing to this topic.  Same situation happened to me today.  White smoke only in higher RPMs...

    I realized that after 55-60 mph white smoke appeared noticeably in the rearview mirror.  Smoke dissapeared when speed dropped or idle.

    Checking later with my mechanic, he told me that everything in the engine bay seemed normal.  Then we found one broken grommet at the MC and BF reservoir almost empty.

    It makes sense that brake fluid has entered the combustion chamber through the brake booster.

    Tomorrow I will test the car again...

     

    UPDATE. Car tested. Engine runs well. No more white smoke, but still some blue smoke over 80 MPH. Maybe new valve stem guides will help.

  2. 9 hours ago, Robert Kyle said:

     

    Curious but you decided to use the calipers that came with the E21 instead of using Volvo ones.  Were you still able to get vented rotors to work w/those calipers?  What all mods did you have to do to get those calipers to work?  I hear you have to shave the rotors (in addition to either plugging a brake line on the 2002 MC or using a single circuit MC like what you did)???

    E21 calipers was what I had available at time of repair (many years ago).  Still using original rotors, no modifications on them.  Regarding circuits, I just closed one first, upgraded to E21 MC later... no big deal...

  3. These are all the parts that I have upgraded from a E21 donor without any hassle:

    • Wiper / Washer switch with interval
    • Wiper relay (interval)
    • Rearview mirror
    • Front brake calipers (single circuit)
    • Brake master cylinder (single circuit)
    • 65 amp alternator
    • 4 speed manual transmission
    • Complete 215mm clutch
    • 3 spoke 323 sport steering wheel (looks great)

    I still haven't been able to get a 5-speed transmission and rear bigger brakes (on my wish list)...

  4. Had to deal with this issue over the weekend.

    In the middle of a washer system upgrade (new interval wiper, new washer pump, new reservoir and new hose) I did not want to spend extra 60 bucks buying new nozzles. So I decided to clean them.

    Mine were badly clogged.  25+ years out of order, Decided to try all common solutions: needles, metal wire, soaking in vinegar, boiling in vinegar, paint solvents.... nothing seemed to work.

    At this point of frustration tried a final attempt:  Cut off the tip with a small saw (carefully not pressing it too hard) and result was fine.

      Cleaned with sand paper they look brass new and in working order (one now a little shorter although).

  5. On 4/5/2019 at 1:10 PM, URO Parts Support said:

    Hi everyone, we've been redesigning these door seals over the last year and should have the new version available mid-to-late 2019.  The old version works, but there was certainly room for improvement - stay tuned!

     

    I wonder if the new updated URO seals are already available. Mine were bought many years ago and I suspect they are first generation (quite hard) ... better than no seals btw..

  6. 1 hour ago, adawil2002 said:

    My first 123 lasted for 16K miles before it had to be returned for a replacement due to oil infiltration into the cap. The second one lasted 16K miles due to oil infiltrate into the cap. In the interim I was using the Ireland Engineering unit.

     

    On my 3.0 CSi with 30K on the 123, sent back due to oil infiltration into the cap.

     

    123 claims it's too much crankcase pressure is the cause.

     

    I think it's a manufacturing defect. On the original Bosch there are milling helixes which pull oil down the  shaft away form the cap. 123s have a smooth shaft with a single O-ring to prevent oil from migrating into the cap.

     

     

     

    Neither of the 2 units passed the 16K??? Now I'm scared.

     

  7. 1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

     

    I would not blame the points themselves.

     

    If you were to install fresh Bosch distributor running points (which are properly set), using a curve that suits your engine (just one), I'd bet money you would not be able to tell the difference between that and a 123 from the driver's seat.  Or on a dyno, for that matter.

     

    I am guessing the 123 is replacing a distributor that is in need of refreshing. 

     

    I'm not knocking the 123, just defending old world ingenuity.

     

     

     

    Absolutely. This car run fine on points for years.  Always reliable and available.  But now the distributor is showing its more than 40 years on.... and also liked the idea of never dealing with points again and "modernizing" the old ignition system.

    • Like 1
  8. Got a timing light today and WOW.  What a difference.  It just took about 5 minutes.

    Some years ago got a Crane XR-700 that failed after two years and left me stranded. Hope this new toy lasts longer.

     

    I'm still confused about what the correct curve would be, or the most appropriate.

    Captura de Pantalla 2019-04-20 a la(s) 18.25.50.png

×
×
  • Create New...