Mucci
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Everything posted by Mucci
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Ok, how do you remove the transmission input seal?
Mucci replied to Mucci's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
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I popped the snout/shroud/tube off the input shaft of my early 232 trans. The seal that's in there is blind. There's no way to punch it out or get a seal puller on it since it's inserted metal side down. Did BMW just consider this whole part consumable? I've been going at it with punches and screw drivers for an hour and I'm on the verge of destroying the sealing surface. Broken 2 picks too. I'm getting close to just drilling a punch hole from the back side so I can knock it out then welding it back up...
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Look into the ones that attach to your smart phone now. They’re a fraction of the cost and have better specs. Output resolution and variable light intensity from the LED at the end of the scope are the most important. The cheapest self contained snap-on unit is like $400 with a 2” screen that’s 360p. It’s practically unusable in dark places. That kind of tech is not their strong suit. The smart phone units use your phone screen and they’re like $20-40.
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I actually designed borescopes for snap-on a few years back so those I have. I'll have a look.
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Another question - can you replace the trans output shaft seal without splitting the cases?
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This is the problem. Who's to say I don't spend $300 on another "late model" 4-speed only to find out it's in the same condition as the 2 I already have? If the only way to check condition is to trust the seller's word that's a game that hasn't been kind to me in the past. The condition of the '67 trans is: "It was in the car when I bought it a year ago. I used 1st and reverse to move it in and out of the garage but never took it on the road. Then I pulled it for a 5-speed swap."
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So the output splines look identical (coarse). That being said I know the 76' trans has been opened before due to all the red silicone "gaskets". Maybe it was to swap splines? This trans also has 232 stamped on it (see above photos). I didn't take a photo so I'll have to count the nubs next time. The '67 trans was most recently in a '68 1600 with mechanical clutch, however I'm not sure that was the original trans in that specific car. When I went to drain the oil in the replacement '67 trans about a cup of water came out instead. I know it was sitting in the PO's side yard for a bit. There was also a considerable amount of metal on the drain plug. Actually a little more than what was attached to my trans plug. I can't imagine that's a good sign but how typical is that for a 50yo transmission? I found this image in regards to transmission drain plugs: In both cases the plugs looked much more aligned with the left photos. "Fine / Furry" but not chunky. Are there any other ways of assessing these things without splitting the cases? I'm really hoping I don't go through all this, replacing seals and bearings etc. only to find out the replacement trans is thrashed.
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Ok, replacement trans is stamped 67. The old one is stamped 76.
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Here’s a shot from the video. Bellhousings look identical to me. I do see that pivot ball thing next to the clutch arm hole looks slightly different. Or maybe one is missing a plastic cap?
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Looks the same. Big square hole in the bell housing. Does the 320 trans always have this proud standoff / mounting block instead? Mine doesn't have that.
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It seemed to roll smoothly when there weren't bits of seal in it's groove... The seal was broken into tiny 1mm shards and the grease I tried to use to hydraulic it out pushed all the shards into the bearing. ...or they were already in the bearing and that was the issue... hard to tell at this point.
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Don’t know why this trans was leaking so bad ?
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So this is a 320 trans? How can you tell? I just ordered a Sachs 215mm clutch, PP and TO bearing kit for a late model 2002. Could I not use my old release arm and slave parts to make this trans work?
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IMG_6844.MOV
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I figured out how to make it work but it would have meant going to a different shifter style and I just put in a new short shifter, so…. chopped up the long linkage piece and welded it back together. In assessment news here a video of the replacement trans vs. mine. Input shaft has quite a bit more play and it feels like an internal bearing is shot. Something in there sounds much looser. I also extracted the pilot bearing trying the grease truck first then the wet toilet paper trick. Once the bearing came out the seals on both sides were destroyed, hard and cracked. It was hard to tell if that was a previous failure or caused by the hydraulic action. The seal on one side did show some bubbling which maybe was caused by over heating / failure. IMG_6844.MOV
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Yep, 45mm difference with both in neutral.
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Clutch hydraulic area is the same. I don’t see how I could use the same shift linkage. The selector rod on the replacement trans is about 45mm shorter. The car already has an IE short shifter in it.
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So I was generously given a replacement 232 from a local guy. The rear housing and selector rod appear to be different. My trans is on the right: Mine is stamped: 232 0 139.02 62 225 470014/6 UP14 or UP/4 Replacement trans is stamped: KN 232 0 139.00 II 54705/1 What do I need to make this work? I happen to have a box of shifter parts I acquired. Do I have what is needed? Parts within the red box are what were on my car.
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Old thread but does anyone know where this MM test result can be found? Link seems to be broken.
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Does anyone know if Sachs specs a horsepower / torque rating for their clutches somewhere? I’m curious what they spec the 215mm at vs. the 228mm but can’t find any data.
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Yes please let me know, thanks John!
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Looks suspiciously like a rubber foot to a cane doesnt it? ?
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I’d grab that tonight if it was local but I feel like it’ll be twice as much to ship it. There are tons of 02’s around the Bay Area. There has to be one closer.
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Yup, the trans had "Mannings Automotive" written on the side of it, which is a shop in Tigard, OR (I bought the car in Oregon). Whether its the original unit that's been rebuilt or a replacement unit I don't know. The car itself is a '75; would that have come with a 242 instead? This one's a 232 if I remember correctly. Any chance the Automatic shares an input shaft with the 4-speed? I have access to one.
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Well if it comes down to a total rebuild I doubt I'll stick with this transmission but I'd like to know how to further assess it. I've rebuilt a few motorcycle gearboxes, and many moto engines, so I'm comfortable cracking it open for inspection if that's the only way to assess it. When I turn the input shaft I don't feel any binding or roughness. It rotates smoothly. I can hear what sounds like gear teeth meshing ...or maybe a clacking bearing? It sounds similar to the noise I was hearing at idle. I'll take a video when I get back to the garage. Unfortunately I didn't measure the oil that came out but it was a significant amount. At least 1L I'd say if not mostly full. Luckily most of the leaks appeared to be seepage leaks and not "leaving a puddle" leaks.
