Rozz

Tired of messing with carbs, I'm going with an M42. I will miss the sexy looks and sounds, though.

Italian Webers, Good shape with air horns and foam air filters. The air horn tabs are homemade and wonky, but they do the job0

Karzundparts intake manifold

includes the water neck and heater hose pipe.

Low pressure regulator and gauge

Going from memory here, so bear with me

Idle jets 50 F9

main jets 120

emulsion tubes F11

Air correctors 190

pump jets 140?

34mm chokes

$650 OBO shipped in the US

For $200 more I'll include all the extra jets, air correctors, E-tubes, reamers, etc. that I have along with a BUNCH of extra weber stuff (linkage parts, fittings, little stuff but quite a bit of it.)

I bought the flywheel used when I did my 5 speed swap, and for a brief moment I got excited when I thought it would work with my M42, but that was a no go.  It worked great, and I'll throw in the clutch I used with it, which also worked great. 10.9 hardware included.

$200 shipped in the US

Oh, stop it. You're making me blush.

Interested in your interest.

I'm going M42 and selling off a few parts.

Getrag 245 5 speed, works great and quiet

Shortened shift platform and shifter rod

Transmission mount adapter

6 month old Custom built adjustable length driveshaft from Driveshaft Specialist http://driveshaftspecialist.com/ 

Speedo cable

$1500 shipped in the US

This is the beginning of my Going M42 sell off. The header has an oxygen sensor for the 320i fitment, plus I added one by the collector for an AFR gauge, and has 1/2 of a v-band clamp at the collector. It has a couple dents by the collector on the bottom tubes, but doesn't affect performance. I bought it like this, and I ran this last summer on my autocross car without issue. It comes with the heatshield gasket also. No rust.

$125 shipped in the US

Thanks,

Ross

I lurk, and rarely post since most of the info I need is pretty easily accessed by searching. The FAQ is easily the most used 2002 resource out there, and I personally can't see a need for a change.

OK, the results are in. I bolted up both flywheels to the M42. The M10 FW fouled against the rear seal housing bolt heads. I then removed the 1/8" spacer from the dual mass FW, drilled it out to fit the dowel on the crank, and bolted up the M10 FW. The ring gear sits .03" farther away from the engine than the M42 FW. Looking good, but then I checked the tooth count, and the M10 has 3 more teeth than the M42, so the pitch is slightly different. I don't know if it is enough to matter, but I'm going use a RHD engineering flywheel

and an M20 clutch setup. I had already gotten it when I started checking the usage of the M10 setup, so I'll just sell the aluminum M10 flywheel. It is a 215mm clutch.

http://racehead.com.au/products-page/engine-components/bmw-light-flywheel-m50-m52-m42-m44/

I'll check the tooth count tomorrow, and if I can switch the m42 and M10 around on the engine stand and hoist, I'll compare the difference in relation to where the starter ring gear sits.

I'll give that a shot. I am waiting for him to send me my mounts and header anyway.

Thanks

I am in the process of swapping in an M42. I pulled the M10 drivetrain yesterday, and I compared the flywheel/clutch assembly from the M10 with the dual mass setup from the M42. Aside from being about 1/8" taller overall, they seem to be the same everywhere else (overall diameter, clutch disc diameter, starter ring, throwout bearings, and crank bolt pattern) My M10 flywheel is a JB Racing lightweight flywheel, and I'd like to use it on the M42. Can anyone see a problem with this?

Thanks,

Ross

Konig Rewinds, 15x8 ET7 with 225/4515's

The rear tires will be fine. The ride height will also make a difference as to whether it will rub

The +1mm offset on that wheel won't really change fitment a noticeable amount. That being said, I ran 15x8, 0 offset wheels on my autocross '02, with turbo flares and 225/45-15's, and had considerable rubbing at full lock. The flares were also self clearanced by the tires. I shaved a quarter inch from the mounting pads of the wheels, and still have a small amount of rub on the footwells, but it is now bearable.

It definitely depends on the size of tire you will be running.

I ran 15x8 et 0 on my autox car with 225/45-15s with turbo flares. I had A LOT of rubbing at full lock. Later this summer, I moved to 15x8 et 8 and still have slight rubbing on the footwells after clearancing the front fenders/valance, so tire size has  quite a bit to do with it. My tires have a 23" diameter.

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-body-chassis/02fgbumperrear.html

Just enough to take the tension off of the spring hat, and no, left/right doesn't matter.

I picked up these angled stacks from Ebay. Nice quality and they fit nicely with the brake booster.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-40-DCOE-VELOCITY-STACKS-ORIGINAL-EDUARDO-WEBER-PARTS-/262488396477?vxp=mtr

Is the Nut that holds the strut in stuck, or the strut cartridge itself stuck in the tube? If it is the latter, can you attach a slide hammer to the strut rod?

Jim, the first autocross is Sunday. You should stop by.

This helps a lot 

http://www.lainefamily.com/images/WeberTuningManual.pdf

 

 

I'm trying to understand this? How can the ratio be anything other than 1:1? Please explain. Thanks!

 

It depends on where the spring and rear hub are in relation to the trailing arm pivot point. Maybe this diagram will help.