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Rozz

Solex
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Posts posted by Rozz

  1. I've got them on my ugly autocross car. The backspacing worked out to an offset of 13mm (although I cannot remember the backspace currently). They do need to be balanced by the lug holes, not the center hole, although many shops are equipped to do it that way.

    ugly one.jpg

  2. 11 minutes ago, TobyB said:

    What matters are the holes on the underside of the bar.  The reason for the crimp was

    to provide an angled surface for a hole that points forward to get oil onto the cam driven

    sprocket, and thus, onto the cam chain, sliders, and lower sprocket.

     

    Take a look underneath with a small mirror on a stick.  My recollection is that the crimp  goes forward.

     

    t

     

    Judging by the length on either side of the oil feed bolt, wouldn't it be impossible to turn it around?

    M10 valves.jpg

  3. 13 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

     

    I've seen them installed both ways.  Early cars had both ends squared off.  Do the oil holes correspond to obvious points of lubrication (cam lobes) in one or the other orientation?  Pictures from a thread that Simeon authored.  It looks like the section from the crimp to the mounting bolt is shorter than the section from the squared off end to the mounting bolt, so I vote for crimp in the back pointing at cylinder #4.

     

    Mark92131

     

     

     

     

    Ha Ha! Now that you said this I've looked at my own picture and it's pretty obvious that the spray bar is longer on one end.

  4. 1. I'm trying to figure out where the timing is on my engine. My problem is that the PO was a little light on info on engine mods. I cannot find a mark on the cam pulley to line up with the spray bar when the valves are both closed on cylinder #1. The cam is supposed to be a 292. should there still be a mark?

    Also the front pulley is from a 318i (I think), and I don't think that the marks on that are in the right place for this motor.

     

    2. I've seen pictures of spray bars in various positions, mine has the crimp to the rear. Does it make any difference?

     

    Thanks,

    Ross

     

    M10 valves.jpg

  5. Price: $70
    Location: Sturgis, SD


    Description:

    Does anyone need to check the fit of a 13x8 rota RB before buying the whole set? That's what I did, and it was

    obvious that they wouldn't work for me. I could do a bit of filing on the Volvo calipers and make them work, but it

    was a no go with the roll center spacers. Anyway, $70 shipped to you in the continental US get you a brand

    spanking new wheel with a couple scratches on the inner barrel.

    Also posted on facebook1826207909_rotaside.thumb.jpg.88ca54fc22f26b2022c5094825d24d6c.jpg

     

    Rota front.jpg

    rota label2.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. I just went out and looked them over. That is the extent of the rash, the other three wheels don't really have any. The offset is 35mm. I'm going with flares and  an 8" wide wheel, so I have no use for them. Here's my ugly '02 with them on it to show how they fit. This is with oversize 205/50R15's

    Ugly 02.jpeg

  7. I have a set of wheels straight out of the '80s. 15x6 Superlights, welded two piece, that could use a deep cleaning. One center cap is missing the superlight decal, and there is some light curb rash, but they seem to be straight and drive vibration free. $400 plus shipping.

    superlight.jpg

  8. 21 hours ago, jgerock said:

     

     

    Looks like URO also makes reproduction lenses for Square light cars as well.

     

    Amazon link

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=BMW+2002tii+tail+light+lenses

     

     

     

    Rock auto shows the URO square lenses for about a third of that price.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw,1975,2002,2.0l+l4,1010811,body,tail+lamp+lens,11725

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