2002spaceodyssey

I want to give an update to my no-start issue...no solution yet. Let me summarize the events in case it helps find a solution:

1. I replaced the tired stock starter in 2016 with a Bosch SR440X. The battery had already been moved to the trunk. I installed an Optima Red Top sealed battery.The engine spun quickly and started immediately.

2. The car sat for an extended period of time due to rust repair and total suspension and brakes rehab. The battery was kept on a Battery Tender. I started the car a couple months ago with fresh gas and it fired up easily. 

3. While installing the interior, I foolishly plugged in the seat belt interlock connector to my seat belt buckle. This led to a no-start condition because the seat belt wasn't buckled. Upon trying to start the car, the dash lights would come on, but nothing else...no crank, etc. When I realized what was happening, I discovered that I had trapped the wire for the interlock between the bolt and the floor, stripping the insulation. I repaired it with electrical tape, unplugged the interlock, and the car started.

4. Recently when I was ready to drive the car, it wouldn't crank/start. I replaced the SR440X starter with an SR441X unit. The very first time I tried to start it, it almost started. Then it wouldn't crank again and some ground wires started smoking (see the video I posted above.) Based on sound advice from this forum, I connected a jumper cable from the starter mounting bolt on the block directly to the battery's negative terminal in the trunk. The starter would only turn a tiny amount and made the clicking sound. The wire in the photo below with masking tape on it gets hot but doesn't smoke.

5. I took my battery and both starters to Advanced Auto to be tested today. The Optima battery tested good. The SR440X (my original starter) spins but does not extend to engage a flywheel. The new SR441X is toast. It turns a tiny amount each time it's triggered. 

As you can imagine, I'm not in a rush to install another starter until I understand what's happening.  Just for fun, I ordered an E30 positive cable off the 2002FAQ.

I've been where you are. I can't see your floor plugs in the photos, but that's where the rust usually takes off. Also, I would remove the black sound deadening from your rear inner fenders. Mine looked like yours until I removed the black tar, and I found both rear fenders were rusted clear through. As far as repairing holes, you can still buy the metal 2002 floor panels and cut what you need, or have a body shop use some sheet metal. To treat the surface rust, it's tough to beat sanding and using POR-15. My blog entry "First things First" show detailed pictures of the metal repair and POR-15 painting.  I'll try to attach a link here:

PM Sent.

I'll take the E30 battery cable and the ride height strut spacers. Thanks, Doug

Thanks again for the suggestions. I agree it's crazy because the car started fine until very recently. I will use a jumper cable to check ground as suggested. I also want to try to use the  stock engine block-to-chassis ground point. Can someone post a picture of where the stock ground strap mounted to the chassis/body? Thanks!

Thanks for the responses. I'll look for a better body ground, perhaps the original point. BTW- the SR440X (on the left in my photo) is even shorter than the SR441X, so it never reached/used the original starter bracket. In spite of this, the 440X spun the motor very rapidly before these recent issues. Unfortunately, I've made multiple changes at once in my rush to get the car back on the road. I recently tried to install an E30 320is steering wheel, and the carbon pin that contacts the brass horn ring broke apart. There is currently no pin in the steering wheel. I can't help but notice that one of the relays in the fender is the horn relay, so I'm wondering if this is self-inflicted.

Deilke is right. The positive cable from the battery is connected to the big stud on the starter. We measured the voltage at the starter and have 12.5V.

I'm having an electrical problem with my 2002. I never had any electrical issues before. The car has been sitting since May 2018 while I replaced/restored the suspension and brakes. I put fresh gas in and started the car a month or two ago and no problem. When I replaced the interior, I plugged in the drivers seatbelt interlock (it's a 1974.) It took me a while to figure out that it wasn't starting because of the interlock, and I unplugged it. When I started it, it turned over slowly, not like it used to (I installed a Bosch SR440X starter in 2016.) Recently it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't even turn over. Eventually we saw some smoke from the starter, so I ordered and installed a new one (SR441X.)

When I tried to start the car with the new starter installed, it wouldn't turn over and one of the wires attached with the engine grounding strap to the driver's side inner fender began to smoke. I should mention that the previous owner moved the battery to the trunk, but I have never had a problem starting the car. I used a wire brush in my drill to clean all the ground points (engine block, grounding bracket, inner fender, as well as the ground point in the trunk. 

When I try to start it, same thing. The starter clicks, the wire smokes. Above you can see the black mark where the brown wire was smoking. Here is a video:

Any help is appreciated!

I’ll take it. Please send me your PayPal info. Thanks, Doug

I'll take them. Thanks, Doug

PM sent. Thanks.

jahmike- I never bought the LSD. 

Thanks to all for the replies. I decided to vacuum my carpet and then used a Bissel Pro-Heat carpet cleaning machine which uses hot water and cleaning solution. I then used Oxi-clean to remove a couple of stains. I figured if the carpet fell apart I would buy a new one. The carpet survived OK. Nice and clean and fresh smelling. As you can see in the pictures, it is really faded on the transmission tunnel where the console doesn't cover it. I noticed '76mintgrun02's shows similar fading. 

There is no text left on the bottom of my carpet. I see what looks like some smeared black ink, but it is lost to the dry rot. You can also see where a heel pad used to be stitched on. 

I know it's probably sacrilege, but I'm wondering about a coat of spray dye to give it a uniform color?

As I'm restoring my 2002, I planned to clean and re-use my original 1974 tan carpet for the time being. I may do Esty's carpet in the future. I've had rust repaired, put down Rammat and soon Ensolite. 

I took my molded carpet to a local dry cleaner who cleans rugs, and was quoted a price of $35 to clean it. A couple of days later, the cleaner called and said they cannot clean it due to dry rot.....it would not survive the cleaning process. I picked my carpet up and I don't see why it can't be cleaned (although I'm not a carpet expert.) There are no tears or holes in it, except for some cuts the previous owner made to clear a roll bar. Any suggestions about how I might clean it gently? Should I use water? Foaming carpet cleaner? Advice welcomed! Pics below.

I know this question has been raised before on this site, but I can't recall a conclusive answer.

My ATE master cylinder came with 2 rubber grommets installed where the hoses from the brake reservoir go in. There were also 2 washers included in the package.

I've heard different opinions:

1. The washers are not needed/people never use them

2. The washers should be installed under the rubber grommets

My old M/C had the washers in it, and some pictures in my manual show washers, but seem to only show single-line M/Cs.

What I don't get is why ATE would put them in the package if they're not needed. I pulled the rubber grommets out of my new M/C, and there are no washers pre-installed. 

What's the deal? Thanks, Doug

Thanks for your advice, everyone. I believe ATF it is!

What a great website.

I'm rebuilding my front end, and I'm about to install new Bilstein HD strut inserts. When I took them apart, one side appeared to have oil in the strut housing, while the other side was dry (and rusty.)

What should I use to keep my new inserts from rusting in the tubes? Oil? I'm thinking about using anti-seize, just not sure. Thanks.

PM sent on the front strut spacers.

Hal-

I just sent you $40,00 via PayPal for a copy. Will send a PM. Thanks.

So I decided to use fender washers with a bolt through them to protect the wheel bearing areas and the bushing areas during the glass blasting process. Worked great. I used the POR15 process (degrease, etch, paint). The etching process calls for rinsing off the parts with water which causes flash rust visible in the photo, but the rust is not an issue according to the POR15 folks since its designed to go on over rust. Now to put things back together.

Thanks for the responses so far. I like the rubber stopper idea....

In case I wasn't clear, I have removed the rubber bushings and the wheel bearings. The trailing arms are bare. I just wasn't sure how to protect the smooth shiny surface where the wheel bearings go.

I'm ready to have my rear subframe and trailing arms sandblasted. I think they actually use glass vs sand. The shop told me to protect the wheel bearing races with masking tape followed by 10 layers of duct tape. Does anyone have experience with this? Is there a better way? A couple of fender washers with a bolt between them? Do the TA bushing mounts need to be protected as well? Thanks.

Do you have a pair of rear trailing arms? I actually just need the lower spring perches but will buy entire trailing arms if need be.

Thanks.

PM Sent,

Sent you a PM. Thanks,