2002spaceodyssey

I started this thread. I took my caret to a professional cleaning service, and they refused to clean it. I cleaned it myself.

I have one I'm not going to use. Sending you a PM.

Doug

I have a question for the collective expertise on this forum. This year I bought an E21 3.91 LSD to put in my 2002. I sent my output flanges off to IE as cores and got a pair that's drilled for 8mm hardware and spacers so I can use my recently refreshed 2002 half-shafts.

Since I had the output flanges out, I decided to replace the output shaft seals. The seals were more-or-less flush with the outside of the differential case (see fist picture.) Not watching the depth, I drove the new seals in with a bearing/race driver, and they seated approx .165" deeper that the ones I took out. In the second and third pictures you can clearly see the "lip" above the seals. So, have I driven the new seals in too deep?

I noticed on other BMW forums there is discussion about seal seating depth (says to mark your seals and seat new ones to the same depth), but this seems to be discussing later models/ M3s.

PM sent.

Seeing as how I have 2 trailing arms in my parts stash with rusted out spring perches, I would be in the market for a pair if they were available.

Yep. Both of my trailing arms were rusted out there. Steve at Blunt hooked me up with another pair that were ok.

PM sent. Thanks.

Money sent via PayPal. My address sent via PM. Did you receive everything ok?

Thanks.

PM sent.

PM sent. Thanks.

PM sent. 

Looking for a short, early rear bumper or an Ireland Engineering fiberglass rear bumper in the Mid Atlantic area.

I'm considering painting it body color so surface rust may not be an issue. Thanks. 

PM sent. Thanks.

Pete-

Do you have any additional info on this motor? Was it running when pulled? Any idea on mileage? 

Do you think it would be a suitable core for rebuilding (both block and head?)

Thanks, Doug

I'll take it. Sending PM. Thanks.

Like Mike said, they will fit with the washers and circlips, but a large vice will help and you may have to shave a little off the urethane bushings with a razor blade to get the circlips in. I also just installed the Blunt bushings in my 1974.

Can't resist piling onto this thread. I'm impressed by the quality of work done by members here. Love the gray ones, by the way. I think these subframes are way better than they were when they left the factory!

Before:

After:

Try this useful link:

Get off the bus! upgrade your '02's steering wheel. - Bay Area 02

I'll take them. Sending PM. Thanks.

The slide hammer got my old inserts out, This is what one looked like:

The inside of my strut tubes had rust inside, and wouldn't let my Billy HD inserts go in all the way. I had to run a cylinder hone on a drill down inside the strut tubes to clean the gunk out.

Pipe wrench and Mapp gas to loosen nut.

Slide hammer with vice grips attached to get tube out.

What a great website. You guys were right. My engine block wasn't sufficiently grounded to the chassis.I can't say why it worked before. 

I went with a braided ground strap like tech71 suggested, and that was it. 

I'll take the 3.91 LSD. Thanks. Sending e-mail.

jimk- Yes, the starter motor support isn't being used as a support due to the shorter starters. I an going to eliminate it and buy a larger-gauge ground cable, which I'll connect directly to the engine block's threaded hole. I believe I'll fasten the other end of the ground cable to the front bumper bolt. 

AustrianVespaGuy- I had both of my starters tested off the car at Advance Auto, and I'm afraid they are damaged.

tech71-

The bracket has been cleaned with a wire wheel, hence the colors. Under the bracket I've also wire brushed the attachment point on the block. 

Mike A- Picture attached. The bolt is welded to the chassis. One thing I'm wondering about - I have a "star" washer under the neg battery connection to the chassis. I'm sure this is something I read on the FAQ, since I am a noob when it comes to wiring. Now I'm not sure the star washer is a good idea....