LateApex

I hear you, but full disassembly is not an option right now.  I'm hoping someone will have attempted this and know if it is feasible.

Can stock front radius rod bushings be swapped for urethane with the rest of the suspension in place or is there not enough play? 

Anyone coming in a motorhome, or, is there an RV park that is preferred by attendees with motorhomes?

Fiberboard, speaker enclosure carpeting, aluminum panels.  (Now has a roll bar).

Are you sure you have a resistance wire? You have a ballast resistor, I'm inferring. Is the wire insulation melting at the resistor connection? If so, I might be inclined to say it's almost normal. Those resistors get hot. It's what they do.

 

Cheers,

No, no ballast resistor, yellowish clear-insulated wire runs to the + terminal.  I only included that drawing to show the voltage difference.  When measured, the wire reads about 1 ohm of resistance.  I have been doing much reading today and I see where most coils measure around 3 ohms.  As mentioned above, mine reads 0.6 ohms.  I am thinking the very low resistance in my coil is overwhelming the resistance wire.  I am becoming more convinced I have a bad coil.

Nothing else attached to the coil positive lug.

The lug at the top of the solenoid, which I think is the connection for the bypass wire, is empty.  Connections on the solenoid include the battery cable, a second red, large gauge wire which I believe connects the battery cable to the engine compartment harness (my battery is in the trunk) and rectangular plastic female lug connector.

I found a graphic that showed that, with the black coil, the ignition wire was 9v when ignition on and no starter.  Is this correct? because mine reads 12.6v.

This is my attempt at a first start up after much work.

While cranking the engine (using a remote starter switch to the diagnostic plug) to confirm baseline timing, the insulation on the resistor wire started melting.

I believe I have the Black coil, but I'm not sure because the PO painted it.  Here are my resistance readings:

(The meter, when the leads are connected to each other reads 0.6, so I assume I need to remove that number from the low-end readings.)

Using the "200" setting

Coil + to - = 1.1 (or 0.5, adjusted)

Resistance wire = 1.6 (or 1.1 adjusted)

Using the 20k setting

Coil + to center post = 5.88

From what I have read, all those readings sound within spec and would indicate a functioning coil.  While cranking with the timing gun attached I am getting a timing signal on the #1 plug wire.

I do not have an additional wire running from the solenoid to the coil and didn't before my work when the car started and ran fine.

I am running a "coil signal" fuel pump relay with the signal wire attached to the negative side of the coil, which is working correctly. 

Additional info: the resistance wire has 12.6v at the coil +

I'm thinking that the 35 year old resister wire cant handle the 12v load during extended cranking.  Should I go with regular wire and a block resister? 

The panel is a piece of wrinkle-finish ABS.  I fitted the panel into the existing binnacle.  I would prefer that it tilt up a bit more, but it is easy to read as is.  To make room I removed the dash switches, discarded the dummy, rear defrost & lighter and relocated the light switch to the center console.  The gauge backs fit into the space left by the OEM gauge cluster without any cutting.  At the moment, the assembly is attached with sheet metal screws driven into the dash panel.  If that proves insufficient, I will try rivnuts or something.

looks good to me...

 

what is the intended use of the car?

Vintage touring and regional enthusiast events, Depending on its reliability, maybe some autocross and an occasional track day.  Possibly vintage racing in the future.

I don't want to start a project blog, but I thought some of you might be interested in what I'm doing.  I have learned a lot from the site; thanks to all the posters.

Before:

Engine after:

Interior after

r:

Turbo bodykit and big brakes are in progress.  I know the purists might cringe, but the donor was really beyond saving for a restoration. 

Clever mounting of the left master cylinder.  I contemplated this but it never occurred to me to think "outside the box"  I thought just the other day that I should have made an access hole in the top of the box. I'll just have to use trial and error to set the clevis length by R&R the adapter plate.

Moot, you mean.

Yes, Duh. 

AceAndrew's recommendation is fronts in the front, rear in the rear.  My concern with the different orifice size is mute because the front brake line sizes are equal and are the dominant flow restriction. 

BTW, I'm doing a brake booster delete in addition to my brake upgrades (IE Wilwood for 15" and VW rear discs) and will share my configuration soon.  Here's a preview

My clutch slave is gravity fed from the reservoir.  1976 2002

clutch slave

No, not the reservoir, the master cylinder.  Below is an image of the M/C showing the three outlets.  Can someone ID the three outlets indicated by the arrows.

I have the Wilwood big brake kit from Ireland which I ordered with the recommended E21 master cylinder.  This swap involves going from dual to single front brake lines.   I am about to route my lines and have a question.  There are three outlets on the E21 M/C, two on the side (front and rear in the car's orientation) and one on the bottom at the front.

I assumed the two at the front were for the front brakes and the one in the back for the rear brakes, but I see that the orifice sizes are different between the outlets. The bottom front outlet has a noticeably larger orifice than the two side ones.  This leads me to believe that the two side outlets are for the front brakes and the bottom front one for the rear.   I've looked online for parts fiche pics, but cannot find one that shows the connection layout of my M/C.  Can anyone confirm the correct connections?

Mocked it up - they work fine for my header.

I thought someone might be able to save me the trouble of mock-up.  I ordered exhaust studs from Bavarian Autosport and received these instead of the shorter, shouldered studs that came off the car.  Anyone know if I can I run these without issue with tubular headers?

So the controlling spec in the day was either wheel/tire width, track, or a combination of both?  Fenders had to "cover" and/or match a profile arch?  I see most BS cars run unaltered fenders, (or more correctly, un-flared fenders) that would be the SCCA rule TobyB mentions, then, correct?

It seems like almost every historic picture I see of a competition 2002 has the "pig cheek" flares.    Didn't any cars race with the "turbo" flares?    If not, why?

Thanks for all the responses. 

I'm still learning about the various tuning/part options for the car.  Clearly the IE manifold will be more than adequate for my near-term needs with a mild tune and 34mm chokes, I bought the 45s instead of the more-appropriate 40s to leave my upside options open and, after measuring the manifold, I wondered if I was limiting my potential with that part. 

Just unpacked my DCOE 45s and Ireland manifold and realized the inlet ports on the manifold are 40mm in diameter.  Port matching is always an option, but there doesn't seem to be a tremendous amount of excess "thickness" in the manifold to allow a full port job to 45. 

Is there a manifold that is sized for the 45 Webers? 

Can the Ireland mani be opened up for the 45s without compromising its structural integrity?

The head side seems to be sized for a 40mm carb too.  Does the head need to be opened up to make the 45s worthwhile?

TIA

I'm using the same strategy as mlytle.  Remove as much as possible, clean it up (and take care of a little surface rust) and only put back what is necessary.

Before

Half time

The car is a '76.  I think 2002 has it.  The connector (and location) match the picture in his link.  I suspect I can trace and delete this wiring.

Thanks for all the input.

It goes through the firewall.  Wiring colors look OEM.   I'll try and trace it tomorrow.