LateApex

Looking for a brake rod grommet - the part that attaches to the oval hole in the pedal box.  

Does anyone know the part number or a good source for the grommet or seal that goes between the brake rod and the pedal box? 

TIA

Sold.  I sent you a PM. 

I'm looking for an early kidney grill.  Condition not too important (for race car) but should be able to be massaged back into something approximating its original shape.  NOS need not apply.

My 4-speed (1976 2002) has a distinctive clicking noise in first gear, most noticeable when downshifting.  The clicking is speed dependent.  The trans shifts fine in all gears.  It does have issues holding gear oil, which I assume is worn seals.  The noise is worse when it gets low on lube, but is evident even when full.  

Any ideas?  Synchros?  Bearings?  Should this be considered an annoyance or a failure fore-warning?  I have two cars and two trans and I thought it made sense to put the good one in my street car and the noisy one in the track car with new seals.  I'll likely never downshift into first on track. 

TIA

Does anyone have a source for the thicker 0.3mm oil pump shims?  Everywhere I look shows the NLA.  My chain slack is right at maximum and an experiment with a feeler gauge under the pump seems like the 0.1mm shim won't help much.

PM sent

On 8/15/2016 at 0:34 PM, mmichalik said:

Manfred Mann - Blinded by the light

 

I'd suggest the Bruce Springsteen version is MUCH better. 

"Get Out of Denver" Bob Seger and the Silver Bullet Band (Live Bullet)

"Free Bird" Lynyrd Skynyrd (One More From the Road)

"Man on a Mission" Don Hemley

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Yes, right in front of the muffler

 

Yeah, I saw the "euro vent" option but my car has centered aftermarket exhaust that is probably right under that hole.  I guess I'll run it out the trunk on the side near the filler.  Thanks guys.

I live in Florida and I've experienced the "expanding fuel after fill-up" leak (my trunk canister is missing and the hose capped). 

If I vent the hose that is connected to the filler neck out the bottom of my trunk, will that keep the fuel from backing up out my gas cap or is it too small or close to the cap to do any good?  Or, would I be better off using the larger, unused fuel return line that attaches on the top of my tank?  (Have mercy, I've read about ten threads on the subject and still am unclear)

I have a set of 8, 57mm screw in wheel studs (with nuts) from Ireland Engineering.  I bought a set not knowing they came with my brake kit.  Unused and still in the sealed bag. 

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-wheels/12x57wheelstuds.html

$20 Shipped to Continental US.

Build by me, image courtesy of Blane Schwindt.

I am a little embarrassed to ask this, but when setting up my carbs, I removed the cold start assembly from the back of the carb, but did not make any internal changes to jets or plungers.  Could this be a factor in my needing such a rich idle jet?.

15 hours ago, dar_on said:

what does an F9 e-tube do for your situation?

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't an F9 richer at the lower end of the main circuit than an F16?  Seems like that would worsen my "too rich at 4000 rpm" condition.

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

.................

 

Also, how would you feel about smaller chokes?  They'd improve your metering.

 

This is not intended to be a daily driver, more of a streetable track car, and, consequently, I have been prepared to deal with certain tune issues on the street.  My goal is to get the WOT right, and the rest "as good as can be expected".  However, I would rather not foul a set of plugs every time I drive to an event.  Since this is my first crack at Weber side-drafts, ultimately, I am trying to get a handle on the approximate RPM levels of the chart below and the expected changes resizing the respective variables makes. 

It's completely possible I'm chasing my own tail due to having an A/F gauge, haha.  It is a time saver though.  How long would this take relying exclusively on plug reading and my nose?

3 hours ago, TobyB said:

...............

 

I agree, your mains are large, too, and the air correctors small, but your chokes are also pretty big,

so the 'signal' at lower flows is pretty small- thus the big jets. 

Mains are pretty cheap- you could certainly toss in some 130s and see what happens.

 

13:1 is fine for power and safety- I was running the race car as lean as 13.7 and it kept making more power.

I was chicken to let it lean out more than that for any length of time.  Soft pistons, soft head, empty wallet, you know.

 

t

 

 

I had already tried 60F8 idles and 125 mains and got ~16 A/F at an easy 2,500 cruise.  Lots of pops & hiccups, too. WOT was 13.7. In fact, both the 55 and 60 idles resulted in that hiccuping, lean cruise at, say, 35-40mph no matter which mains I tried. 

The fat 65 idles cured that.  The current configuration is good everywhere but that over-rich 70mph cruise.  I guess I'll try the 125 mains to see if that helps at 70mph.  If it starts to lean out nearing 6,000 I'll try smaller air correctors. 

13 hours ago, Stevenola said:

Which model carbs?  How rich is rich at cruise?

DCOE 45/152 .    At about 70mph (~4250 rpm) I am under 12 A/F ratio while at WOT I'm about 12.5 - 12.7 throughout the upper revs.

Toby,

I will admit, my idle jets are large (65s) but I was 2.75 turns out with the 60s so I upsized them.  My A/F at, say, 2,500 is fine (~15).  Shouldn't I be in the "main" circuit by 4,000+ rpm?

I'm close to getting my DCOEs dialed in but I have a question.  My WOT A/F is fine (12.5-13.0) but I am rich at highway cruise (4,000-4,500 RPM).  I'm currently at 135 mains with an F16 emulsion tube and 155 air corrector jets.

I believe I need to down-size my mains to bring my highway cruise into an appropriate A/F, but do I use the emulsion tube or the air corrector to add more fuel to compensate for the smaller mains at WOT?

22 minutes ago, NYNick said:

Where did you get the air dam? Would it fit a non-flared car?

It would fit but the ends would protrude from the side.  Ireland Engineering has air dams for non-flared 2002s.

29 minutes ago, Dabliz02 said:

Looking good!!

 

I looked at the previous post just now and I hope you eventually put on filters or screens for the carbs just in case.  You don't want to suck up anything.  Also let us know how the carb tuning went.  I also run 45s so I would like to see what other people get.

Yes, I'm running foam filters.  I really want the individual stack screens, but am cringing at $100 for $10 worth of stainless screen and a rubber ring. I should have my O2 logging installed soon so I can see where my A/F ratios are.  I have been hesitant to run it to redline without a better handle on where I am up top. 

11 minutes ago, jrhone said:

Congrats!  My one question....is the air dam installed too high? It should meet cleanly with the flares shouldn't it?  

Yes, it is mounted on the high side.  It was a compromise and since this was not a show quality build, I didn't feel I needed to match the OEM turbo fitment perfectly.  1) I couldn't find a mounting height for the air dam that blended perfectly with my flares.  2) Mounting it lower will not have a significant effect on the aerodynamics or, really, provide any handling benefit. 3) Mounting it a little high allowed me to cover the huge bumper mount holes on my '76 and saved me bodywork charges for filling those in.  4) A higher air dam will make trailer loading potentially easier.

5 minutes ago, jrkoupe said:

nice...tell us about the car.

The early build was mentioned in this post

The engine has a 292 cam, DCOE 45s, header, Tii distributor w/pertronix.  Since that earlier post I've upgraded the brakes including rear discs, and the obvious cosmetics.

Well, the build almost completely done.  I finished just in time to take the car to The Mitty at Road Atlanta and participate in the Coker Tire Tour to the MItty.  So, my "shakedown cruise" was an all day thrash through the north Georgia mountains.  I'm happy to say the car came through with flying colors.  Temps stayed down, oil pressure stayed up and the engine pulled well. The car was fresh from the body shop so I was unable to lay down my graphics and it rolled in pure white.

After I got home I was able to install my graphics which, I guess, marks the end of "the build".  I still have a few small items to do such as install my innovate data acquisition, fine tune the Webers, install my camber/bump steer plates, adjust the fit of a couple of flares, etc.  I guess the build is never done, haha.  Here is the "finished" product.