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2002 logo is silk-screened with bound edging and rubberized backing.  6" long x 1.5" high.

Vintage rondels are all embroidered with bound edging. 2.5" diameter.

I had both custom made and ordered a few extras.

One set left.

Free first class mail delivery.

Just replied to your message.  It's all yours.

Steve

OMP First-S racing suit, red, size 58, 2014.  FIA 8856-2000 rating so should be good for any sanctioning body.

The price for the current year suit is $599 at Pegasus.

Lightly used always with Nomex.  No stains, odors or discoloration. Excellent condition.

$200 shipped.

Vintage 2002 themed with large BMW rondel and 2002 logo on back and vintage rondel on left shoulder.  Includes other vintage patches as shown if you want to go the full Monty.

OMP sizing is as follows:

Size        58

Chest     45"

Waist     40"

Hip         45"

Height   6'1" - 6'6"

Weight  200-213

I'm 6'0" 205-215, wear 36/32 or 38/32 jeans and L/XL shirts and fits me fine.

I have a fiberglass hood and trunk for a BMW 2002 or 1602. Hood weighs 12 lbs. Trunk weighs 8 lbs. Unused but not perfect - they've been moved around several times over the years so they have a few flaws. 3" cracks on both sides of the trunk. Chips on the pointy ends. Nothing major that can't be repaired.  Perfect for your race car!

$250 for the pair.  I have no way to ship these, nor a vehicle that will hold them for a meet-up, so local pickup only in Venice, FL!

3 hours ago, jimk said:

Since the tensioner and tensioner shoe is on the slack side of the chain (that is never under tension), somebody explain why the manual tensioner in the first place.

 

Seems like a long time ago someone didn't understand the tensioner system and thought this was a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Rotating assembly assisted deceleration, common in racing situations, often at high RPMs, will put tension on the "slack" side of the chain.  With high compression pistons and a high lift cam, you do not want changes in cam timing that could be caused by the hydraulic tensioner yielding.  

36 minutes ago, tech71 said:

 stick a small  o ring under the threaded shaft jam nut, thats probably where its leaking

 

This makes sense - never thought of that.  Thanks.

I had an oil leak from my manual chain tensioner.  There is a crush washer but it does not seal.  The problem is the area where the tensioner contacts the rail fills with oil, which then drips out the end of the tube.  I was thinking that I could drill a drainage hole in the bottom of the area (see red dot in pic) that would allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase once the engine stops.  I think the tensioner would still get an oil bath  from oil flying around behind the timing cover.  

Does anyone see a problem with this concept? 

Used Mahle piano-top pistons.  89.47  Not sure the compression, the piano top is about 1.5mm above the deck.

$120 shipped

I have one too.  See pics

1 hour ago, tzei said:

Btw that is nice looking engine bay! Water pump looks thou to be darn close to radiator but maybe it's the angle of pic.

No, it's close, haha. 

I had another one from a previous build and the threads were better on that one.  I was able to get it bolted on with (barely) enough threads engaged.  That combined with some red loctite should hold until I can find a better solution. 

The adapter is by Glow Shift.  What's nice about it is it had the oil-cooler line outlets as well as two ports for my oil temp and pressure senders. I talked to Glow Shift's tech department and they do not have a longer "through-bolt" (gold in the first image below).  I'm going to see if I can buy a longer one from another manufacturer.  Last-case scenario is to check with a local machine shop and see what it would cost to machine off half of the hex flange or make me another to my specs.  The second pic shows my setup.

The nipple/through-bolt is a separate piece so, theoretically the sandwich plate could be reversible.  However, the surfaces are different.  The top has a groove-set gasket to seal to the housing, the bottom is smooth to mate with the filter gasket. 

Does anyone know if the threaded nipple on the oil filter housing is removable/replaceable?  If so, is it 3/4"-16  thread where is screws into the housing?  I need a longer one to install a sandwich plate.    I'm not getting enough threads engaged.

10 minutes ago, tech71 said:

No, that wont work, I tried. They are different diameters.

Best way to go is to have your 02 driveshaft modified( install 3 bolt flange)

Other possible way is to try to fit a DS from an M10 E30 but the center bearing mounts have to be relocated

Does the E30 driveshaft still need to be shortened?  Would I need the front section, rear section or both?

I've searched for the last 45 minutes but can not find the answer.

Will the 4-bolt flange from my '76 stock 4-speed bolt onto a Getrag 240?

Is this the preferred route to install the 240 since I have a spare 2002 driveshaft that I can shorten.

TIA

35 minutes ago, mlytle said:

curious......why?

 

having driven a lot of miles on race tracks with M10's, S14's, M20's, M50's, S52's, and more...i have never needed additional venting beyond the stock port.

That's great news. 

Why?  I've been paying attention to the race 2002s I've seen in the last 2 years and many (most?) had added some additional venting.  Just looking for some input and feedback.

41 minutes ago, Simeon said:

 

Nice solution. Wouldn’t there be a lot of actual oil out of that? You might want to make sure that the hose is directed upwards when it comes out of that. 

Yes, I'll use a 90* bend up to the hose coming from the OEM vent and then to the catch can.  If I get too much oil in the can I will re-think.

21 minutes ago, mlytle said:

why not use the stock opening in the valve cover for this purpose?

I am, but wanted some additional venting.

I found a partial solution to the issue - a fuel pump block-off with a breather fitting.  It's a VW part but should fit the head.  I'll combine this with the OEM breather, plumb to the catch can and see how it goes. 

Yes, preemptive.  Getting ready to run the catch can plumbing and rather than reinvent the wheel I thought I'd check and see if thee was a proven solution.

Thanks for the responses.  The dipstick idea is a good one, but It'd be a hassle to disconnect every time you check the oil.  As far as staying with the OEM breather on the valve cover, I read somewhere on here, while researching this, that a race engine vents quite a bit of oil through that location at high RPM. 

Does the timing chain throw a lot of oil?  It seems like there would be less oil mist in behind the timing covers than the valve/cam space, hence my thought about adding a vent to the upper cover.

I suspect this has been covered before, but much searching has yielded nothing for me.  For those of you that have added venting to the engine, what did you do?  I do not weld aluminum, so I have considered a bolt-through -AN fitting on the valve cover but I worry that without a baffle of some sort it will pull too much oil.  I've also considered the same setup on the upper timing cover (to get it away from the cam/rocker spray).

Does anyone have a functional solution that does not involve welding aluminum?

TIA

Yeah, just tried bending mine and it worked, thanks.

I bought the cable linkage kit from Redline with the idea I would utilize the linkage that connected the two carb throttle shafts in the center.  However, when I mocked it up the tab on the actuator of the left carb is not long enough to properly interface with the sync adjuster on the right carb.  Does anyone have a solution for this?  Is there an actuator with a longer tab to accommodate the 2002 carb spacing?