Jump to content

tskoda

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    28

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by tskoda

  1. tskoda

    tskoda

    tskoda posted a Community Map marker in Members

  2. tskoda
    New mechanical fuel pump, filter and hoses. Certainly starts better. Now on to the next project. Once I decide what that will be...
  3. tskoda
    Really just a quick question about a 1973 base 2002 with a Frigiking AC unit. I need to get to the blower motor to replace it, and I'm guessing that the AC unit needs to be completely removed. As in drained of freon, lines disconnected, sitting on the workbench removed. While I've read quite a few articles on blower motor replacement options, and heater box refurb, I haven't found an article that answers that question. I have the AC unit laid bare and I see no other way other than to remove it to open the heater box and eventually get to the blower motor. thanks Tom
  4. tskoda
    @mike - ah I see that the boot just fits around the metal frame. The 2 screws are revealed! Both need reinforcing, but that's easy enough. And the faceplate slides out easy as pie. Now to hunt down replacements for all the missing screws... and decide whether to update the radio thanks all Tom
  5. tskoda
    well, let's see... the label on the faceplate says 'frigiking'. this one has the radio at the top of the stack, then the vents, then the A/C controls at the bottom and there are no screws on the shifter surround at all. I suspect that pulling the sifter boot would reveal the hold down screws, but that boot doesn't seem to pop off like my newer BMWs @Peterschop - your shifter surround is quite different than mine. Mine is flat and clearly ends before the A/C unit faceplate
  6. tskoda
    1973 2002 base with A/C. Car has been sitting for 5+ years. In the course of fixing all the myriad switches that don't work, I want to remove the center console. I have all the side screws out as well as the knobs/nuts for the radio and A/C control. It seems like the shifter surround needs to come out to get the console faceplate to have enough clearance to be removed. None of the manuals I have cover that procedure, and the shi8fter boot doesn't seem to simply pop off to give me access to any screws/clips,etc. I am reluctant to start forcing stuff. Searches here haven't turned up what I'm looking for, at least the way I had them worded, so can someone provide a link, or steps to remove the center console faceplate/Shifter surround? thanks Tom
  7. tskoda
    @Allbim That assembly was removed for cleaning, and there was definitely no ball in it. That solves the mystery, I think - it was in the wrong place from an earlier owner. I'll get it sorted tonight. Thanks to all who responded. Tom
  8. tskoda
    @allbim; That kind of is where I am right now - the thing didn't belong in there in the first place. The accel pump plug is there and looks like it has remained original. That being said though, I do notice there does appear to be a ball under #41 in your excellent thumbnail. My guess is it was sitting on top of the assembly, not in it as illustrated. That would allow it to fall out. None of the many diagrams I looked at showed a ball valve there, so back off with the top plate, and away we go... Thanks Tom
  9. tskoda
    @Buckeye - that is a valuable link. Bookmarking that sucka thanks @TobyB The power valve connects to the roof of the float chamber, and there is no place for a BB/check valve like that in evidence. there is a space over the pump delivery valve assembly - #82 here http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGVDiaginfo.asp So I'm going to try that. We shall see... thanks Tom
  10. tskoda
    @etsy thanks for the reply I did a search, although the syntax was a bit different - I didn't use the '/' just a space. That's how I found the article I linked to. An open Internet search does have reveal some additional info, but nothing really pertinent.Mostly about the replacement ball bearing setup for the shafts. I have done a bit more work on this, and the brass plug mentioned in the referenced link seems to be on the top edge of the body. Since the plug is still there, the BB didn't come from there. Still puttering away... Tom
  11. tskoda
    During disassembly of the Weber 32 36 from my project 1973 2002, a ball bearing fell out once the top was off, and I cannot find where it went. I've looked at several excellent exploded diagrams online and don't see a ball bearing anywhere. I have found reference to a ball bearing in the accel pump here; http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/71759-gaining-access-to-ball-bearing-in-3236-weber/ but where in there? If it's behind a plug, it shouldn't have fallen out. The car hasn't run for at least 5 years, and there is no telling who did what to the car in the past. Does it even belong in there? I rebuilt the thing and put it back on the car without that bearing and it runs okay now but it hesitates on acceleration. so maybe it does belong in there. I would like to solve this mystery of the ball bearing while the car is still in the 'parked in the garage getting a thorough going over' phase... Thanks Tom
  12. tskoda
    @visionaut thanks for the info on p/c/r/ @Kidasters thanks for the link
  13. tskoda
    @76MintGrun'02 The cap has a tab to fit into the notch in the dizzy. And your point on the condenser matching the coil is a good one I hadn't considered. Some PO in the dim past changed a good bit under the hood. Since the ballast resister is still there, I'll go with a stock coil and condenser. @Buckeye I haven't used IE before, but their site does seem to have what I need. Thanks all Tom
  14. tskoda
    pretty straightforward - need the OEM distributor for a 73 2002. with or without points, condenser, etc.. prefer one that doesn't need rebuilding thanks Tom
  15. tskoda
    sorry - I should have been more specific - points, condenser, cap and rotor for that dizzy. None of my normal sources (Rock Auto, FCPGroton, RM European, Pelican Parts and BAV Auto) list that dizzy number for any model Tii. Various searches on the open web return lots of hits but so far I haven't found any that show parts numbers for the above mentioned items. I suspect, in the interest of getting this thing running without putzing around too much longer, I'll end up buying the stock dizzy and going from there... Not crazy abouyt the possible cost, but the car was next to nothing, so I guess I'll bite the bullet. thanks Tom
  16. tskoda
    well, that's informative. I guess I'll just need to search for tune up parts for this dizzy number and I should be okay. thanks Tom
  17. tskoda
    i should add it also has 'JFD 4' stamped on the body. It appears this is a Tii distributor. Hmmm
  18. tskoda
    at some point, a PO replaced the stock carb with a weber 2bbl, so I guess anything is possible...
  19. tskoda
    I should have listed the complete dizzy number, 0 231 188 002, in my initial post. Is it possible that this is not the factory unit?
  20. tskoda
    No, I understand the need to get the little thing running first. I was just using Pertronix as an example of a parts source that listed distributor numbers, of which mine wasn't one... Part of the issue is the PO kinda gave up in the middle of his work, and there were several disconnected wires. While I think I have them connected correctly, I'll need a good shop manual with schematics to confirm. Which manual has been found to be the most helpful? Thanks Tom
  21. tskoda
    Just picked up a non-running 73 (10/72) 2002 and all the references I see to the distributor lists two model, ending 003 or 008 Mine ends in 002. For ignition components or conversion kits, like Pertronix, what the heck do I go with? Pretty sure the not starting issue is related to ignition, but I don't want to buy stuff that won't fit... Any thoughts on this? thanks Tom
×
×
  • Create New...