abrokenframe

I wish! This is my first DCOE. Moving to an F9 was my first idea before getting tangled up with progression hole research. I'll order some up right now. Any recommendations for other jets that I can add to the order? -Ryan

Missed that one! 60F8

With my IE distributor: 1,000- 14 1,500- 16 2,000- 22 3,000- 32 Fuel level is at 25mm. Didn't realize it was that easy! Very difficult to set idle above 12.4 AFR. -Ryan

I tried opening up the throttle to where I can see the beginning of the plate when looking through the first progression hole and leaned out my idle. Bleeders closed. I can get it around 1100rpm. This made light throttle even more lean with lots of popping and stumbling. The car was barely drivable. Confusing to me and goes against my logic. The best overall setting from the numerous I've tried seems to be throttle almost closed (not covering the progression hole at all), bleeders slightly open, and a verrry rich idle (11.5-12). Light throttle is then bearable. Still have to rev it up more than I should when engaging the clutch to compensate for it leaning out. This setting is still far from ideal and hasn't solved any of my problems. I'll check my float level when my gasket set comes in. My hood hinges have definitely been getting a workout the last two weeks! I'll shoot a little video of my AFR gauge to give some visual backup. Thanks for the input everyone. -Ryan

Funny! you know what my third car is? A '91 e30 325i coupe. Love that car! I only barely open the bypass screw on one barrel to sync the air flow @ idle. Moving the throttle plates to cover the first progression hole lets way too much air by hence the 2k+ idle to get a decent AFR. I'll give it another shot though! -Ryan

Yes, it has air bypass screws. Don't look at me! The PO put them on about 35 years ago. I'd love to have a pair of p40ll's on there. Just haven't spent the time to find a decent pair of carbs, air filters, throttle linkage, and 912 fuel lines. It's the '02's fault!

Thanks for the help everyone! I'll just hook it up. Seems like the safer bet for another half hour of work. -Ryan

Thanks for the help. I am admittedly a novice when it comes to tuning, so this is helpful (only tuned my 912 Webers and old '02 Solex). Lining up the the throttle plate with the first progression hole opens the throttle and lets way too much air by the plates, so the car idles at 2K+. Weber tuning guides say to have the throttle completely closed and above the first progression hole, so there's definitely a disconnect there. From what I've read, this is the main reason for adding an additional progression hole directly above the throttle plate and probably the reason why Weber started manufacturing the 45 152G (adds a fourth hole). Currently, I think the stumble occurs between throttle initially opening and passing the first hole which is .5mm away from closed throttle. I could be way off, but it makes sense to me! -Ryan

I have tried setting idle at a few different speeds, but it seems the happiest at around 1,000RPM. Haven’t checked my float or fuel pressure yet, but it’s on the “to do” list. I know I’m running rich at idle, but thought around 12.5afr was acceptable for cruising speeds, no? It’s only in the 11’s when I’m going over 75mph. One of the problems I’m having at all speeds is if I lift off of throttle, then open again, I get a stumble and it goes lean. The only way I have been able to combat this with my current jetting is by overcompensating with a rich idle. If I set the idle to around 13-14 AFR, the stumbling when opening the throttle gets a lot worse. In this scenario, wouldn’t putting a fourth progression hole directly above the butterflies allow me to run a leaner idle since it would be dumping more fuel in at partial throttle? -Ryan

I’m considering switching from a sidedraft setup back to a 38/38 using a stock intake. Since I’ve already done the work to bypass the intake cooling, will I run into problems if I just throw the stock intake on there without going through the motions of reverting my cooling system? If so, why doesn’t a sidedraft require cooling? Thanks for the insight! -Ryan

I know you are going dual webers, but I’m sure someone will stumble upon this thread when trying to find info on the lynx setup, so I thought I’d chime in. First off, here’s some specs on my carb: -Weber DCOE 45 152 -Main Venturi: 36 -Aux Venturi: 4.5 -Main Jet: 145 -Em Tube: F16 -Air corrector: 155 -Idle jet: 60F8 -Pump Jet: 45 -Pump Exh: 40 -Needle V: 2.00 Except for the larger idle jet that the PO put in, this carb is setup how it comes out of the box. Here’s some of the problems that I’m trying to sort out: -Shaky/high idle -Stumbling on partial throttle -Poor fuel economy of 12-15mpg -Car stalls on deceleration from high speeds and randomly at idle I picked up a AEM AFR Uego gauge and installed it last night to help understand what’s going on with the carb. Here’s what I’m seeing so far: -Idle: 11.5-12 -Light throttle shoots up to 15/17 for half a second then drops -WOT up to 4Krpm: 11-12.5 -Cruising at all speeds: 11.5-13.5 I’m still in my engine’s first 500 miles, so I’m not revving it up past 4k for the time being, so no readings there. So what solutions am I considering? First off, I called Metric Mechanic since they built my engine to get their opinion. They didn’t have much experience with the single Lynx setup, pointed to a couple of issues that they think come along with the Lynx and basically recommended trying out the 38/38 I have sitting on my shelf. This is something I am heavily considering given the mountain of time/money I am about to put into this carb. THEN I called Top End Performance since they sold the Lynx to the PO. I told them my jetting and they said that was pretty close to where they would start and make small adjustments on a car to car basis. They said stick with 36MM venturis. So do I fix the DCOE or move over to the 38? When considering the DCOE. My first thought is jetting to fix the progression circuit. But after doing some research, my car seems to be suffering from the same problems that a number of others have had with 152’s and I think the main culprit is the progression holes. This Alfa thread has a good write-up and mirrors my symptoms: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/carburetors-fuel-injection-air-intake/32856-weber-dcoe45-152-45dcoe-progression-circuit-modification.html If I stick with the DCOE, It makes sense for me to investigate this before jetting since it will affect my jetting anyway. If I do need a 4th progression hole, this requires removing the carb and bringing to the local machine shop to drill the holes. I might as well rebuild the whole damn carb if I do that since it’s already coming of the car. THEN put it back on and potentially tackle the jetting, which could get pricey in its own right. I’m heavily considering the 38/38. I bought the carb off of a local racer’s ’02, so I’m sure it’s in good working order. Not as sexy, but seems so much more reliable and easy at this point. -Ryan

Don't give up! I just started up this Metric Mechanics motor with a single 45dcoe Lynx two weekends ago and am having a hell of a time getting it to a smooth idle. I came here searching for the same thing you are. I'll take some videos of how my car is running and start looking into jets, venturis, etc. so you have a comparison. Overall, I'd say the M10 feels pretty good. A little stutter @ around 2K RPM in lower gears, and can't get a smooth idle... Only two problems I'm trying to fix. I know my idle jets are off because they require 3 full turns out before it's even drivable. -Ryan

Hello, Has anyone used the FTE caliper kits? They don't come with the metal retaining rings and I threw mine away. Do I just not need them with this kit? If I do, anyone know where to get them? Here's the Kit http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/34111103289-MFG33-V5422.aspx Here's my calipers. Seems like a tight fit for the ring: Any experience appreciated! Thanks, Ryan

Ok here's the finished product if anyone is interested and one of the engine mounted just for fun ?

Had a chance to make this today. 1/8" thick steel. Think this will get the job done? -Ryan

Well looks like I'm reinforcing my engine mount! Funny thing is that totally overshadows my original question (I'll just use the mount I have). That's why I love forums... ask a question and end up down a whole different road. I did consider beefing up the engine mount prior to powder coating, but just kind of let it go not realizing how often they actually crack. Too bad I'll have to mess up the finish... oh well. This should be a fun weekend though since I'll try to fabricate one myself. The IE one looks nice, but after all of your input I think I'll weld to the flange and box it. Thanks for the help everyone! -Ryan

This is BMW's replacement part. Has anyone installed one with these smaller tabs? Seems like there's a lot of play. -Ryan