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So, per my last post, thought this could be float/needle valve related, so opened the carb up today and checked the float, needle valve assembly etc and everything seemed fine. Re-installed everything and same behavior as before... Now what should I check next? 1 - Check all vaccum lines (easier) If everything is ok with #1 should I go with the following which is way more involving (I've never done it before but this might be the time to do it....) 2 - Check valve clearance 3 - Adjust points (or replace) 4 - Re-do timing Thanks

So finally had time to play a bit with the car yesterday... 1- Reconnected the front vaccum lines to the fuel return valve 2 - validated that idle solenoid valve "clicks" when it gets 12v... 3 - Adjusted idle mixture and air screws as suggested above Result: car started cold then started revving at 2500 rpm for about 1min without me depressing the gas pedal, then rpm slowly reduced to 1200rpm then engine died... To keep the engine alive I have to "kick" the gas pedal very quickly when I see RPM is getting lower... Any other ideas what could be wrong? Could this behavior be symptomatic of Carb floats/needle valve not being properly set up? This is where my poor diagnostic skills would point me to... I thought I had put them to spec but might have to reopen the carb to verify... Thanks again!

Thanks so much for the great info, I'll try spending a bit more time on the car over the weekend.. @mike From what I see, might be surprising but fast idle cam mechanism seems fine! Works pretty smoothly, I don't suspect this to be the problem. @John76 @'76mintgrün'02yes I've replaced the idle solenoid valve 4 years ago and don't suspect it to have failed, else they would be highly unreliable!! (Did about 500miles since and car is parked in a heated garage!) . Still I'll try to listen to it with 12v on to ensure it still works! @John76 Vacum could be the most probable root cause from the sound of the engine as you state... I'll be looking at the the black vaccum lines as you suggest... I believe I forgot to reconnect the carb to the fuel return valve which is currently loose and sort of hanging... For the idle mixture, idle air control and idle speed screws what would be a good starting point? I got from another post an old guidebook for the solex 2bbl: -idle mixture: turn in until bottomed then unscrew 2 2/3 -idle air control: turn in until bottomed then unscrew 5/3 - idle speed screws: ? which seemed a bit different than mine from the pictures (were there different versions?) I'll keep you posted with my further investigation results...

Hi I'm looking for help for setup my carb which I reinstalled post rebuilding it... It was due since it seemed to still have the original gaskets in! Anyways, carb is now back in place however engine doesn't idle... I need to floor it to start and hold the gas pedal about 50% to have a rough 2000-3000 rpm to keep it running... I attached a video for an example I searched to forum quite a bit but couldn't find much info on the solex 2bbl for this sort of issue... I'm quite a newb and haven't played much with carb since I got the carb... My car is a 1975 all stock Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!! 20200407_145224.mp4

To give an update on this issue, seems like the vw electric idle valve is working out so far. From what I see, the engine is running a bit rich and idle seems a bit low (around 600rpm) but still driveable. I'll try to play with the mixture and Idle adjustment screws later in the week to see how I can get this setup tuned right.

I was looking at the idle cutoff replacement valves for my 2bbl solex and found that part number 13 11 1 260 516 is replaceable by VW 058-129-413 D. I searched on VW bug/bus websites and came accross this one which looks very similar to mine: http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/carbureted-fuel-system/idle-cutoff-valve-12v-g55-058129413-d Have anyone of you tried a VW idle cutoff valve on a Solex? I'm wondering about jetting also... Thanks

Yes, you are probably right, I should have tried disconnecting the depressurization valve. But now the carb idle valve is broken on top of this...

Quick update on this issue... Seems like the last time I started the car, no more smoke was there. However, the idle issue has gotten worst.... The engine won't idle at all now, cold or hot. My plan was to clean the carb, paying a special attention to the idle jet. When trying to disconnect the wire on the electric idle valve, I broke the tab connector from the valve. I was looking to replace the entire idle valve, but they seem relatively expensive... Can I run the car without it? Seems like Webers don't have it... Else, if this kind of money needs to be spend, a 32/36 is starting to look rather attractive.

They looked great on your car! They seemed to be kinda flush... Did you experience any rubbing?

Anybody knows about these wheels? I have an opportunity to buy a set and I would like to get opinions on them. Only thing I know is there were manufactured by Momo and they are 13". From what I've seen through my research they've seemed to be an oem option on e21s and seem fairly rare. Seems like they would be 13x5.5 ET18? Would anyone have a picture of an 02' wearing them? Thanks Julien

Edited the last post... I definitely need to deactivate the auto-fill of tapatalk.

There is a new episode in the saga this morning.... Wanted to take the car to drive to work this morning and after I started the car, I noticed some white smoke coming out of the exhaust. The smoke has a burnt smell I would not qualify as sugary. I know the engine compression numbers are pretty low and uneven so I am suspecting a head gasket leak. What I don't understand is that before I played with the gas lines that smoke wasnt there... Could the head gasket problem have come out due to the fact the car was parked for 2 weeks?

No worries, I learned the choke reading the forum as this is m'y first carb car... Fuel pump was replaced by one of the previous owners.

Steve, yes I activate the choke by pressing the accelerator ( I learned that the hard way within the first days I got the car). The choke seems to work fine, I verified it when I fixed the other stuff. Before I fixed the fuel lines, idle was already hesitant when cold but it became a lot worst now...

Today I fixed the car per your suggestions. The fuel filter is now on the right side of the fuel pump and the regulator is hooked up. I started the car and dies at idle when the engine is cold...When I give a bit of gas (1000-1500RPM) I can keep it awake until it's hot enough not to die. Could the rough idle be linked to the regulator now being in place? Should I try to re-ajust the carb with this new config?

This is good food for thoughts... Or dump the Solex and get 40 DCOEs! I'm just dreaming... Budget constraints will not allow it for now. Now you guys got me in a dilemna: 3 min fix for putting back the regulator or $$$ and new carb installation. This sounds like the creation of a necessity... I'll think about it!

Mike, I'll try to do as you suggest but should I remove all the gas in the tank before doing this? Also, when you say to vent the tank, would this be using an existing ports on the tank? Thanks Bob for the advise about the fuel filter ! I'll make sure I fix this as well.

Two weeks now since I got my 02 and enjoyed it so far but now got some kind of an issue... I was taking my oil level when I got back from work last Thursday and pulling on the dipstick... The Guide tube came off... I let it stay like that and thought I'd fix it over the weekend. Now, tonight I removed the air box to better understand how to fix this and came across this loose part hooked up to hoses. Looks like the fuel line depressurization valve. And this is what my engine bay looks like: By searching the forum, I came across the following post: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/150390-carburetor-fuel-lines-question/?hl=carburetor+lines#entry984215 So my understanding is that the fuel supply was modified by one of the previous owners and is now directly hooked up to the carb,thus by-bassing this part. Now the tube which runs down by the battery remains. Should I just remove the depressurization valve? Until I take the time to plug the nipple from the gas tank for the return line, should I just plug the hose in some manner to prevent fuel leakings in the bay? By the way, if you find anything wrong with my carb setup let me know as I'm a total newb (who wants to learn).

Excellent Pierre ! I see I'm not alone! I live in the Montreal region as well. Lets gather sometime this summer if you'd like. I might be going to the Hudson car show this summer (July 5th). It could be nice to have an 02 representation there. Julien

Thanks for the tech tips, for The speedo, I'll do some research in the forum archives for sure. Yes I'm glad the interior is in good shape, I don't have any soother skills!

Nathan, compression test was most probably not ran at WOT... I should have done more research before they did it.... I'll ask the garage on monday. But knowing that you ran yours for a while with the engine in a similar state is making me more comfortable driving the car. Carl, as far as the interior, I think this is one of the strongest point of the car. Only broken stuff is drivers reclining seat mechanism, speedo and cigarette lighter! Every single light in the dash seems to be functional . Forgive me for the poor cellphone pics, I'll get some better ones in the future. Julien

Hi, I'm new on this forum as I'm a proud new owner of a 1975 Inka Orange 2002! During the buying process, I used this forum a lot to guide me on what to check and to help me estimate the condition of the car. To be honest, I was quite nervous buying a 40 years old car and one of the big reason I jumped in is that I found this community which shares excellent information. So thanks to the faq, I got an 02! I think the car is in good shape but it is obviously not perfect. The body is pretty solid and interior in excellent condition. I got the car inspected by an experienced BMW mechanic and from what we saw here is my initial "to do" list: - Speedo is busted: needle going everywhere - Front main seal leaking - Header is cracked - Exhaust joint between downpipe and rear seems broken...pretty loose. - Worned guibo: still drivable but there are noticeable vibrations when driving the car. - Alternator bracket is loose. - The worse seems to be the engine compression which is uneven: 83, 102, 91, 112... My current plan, is to keep the car for a while (10 years or so) and to fix it bit by bit through the years while driving it only in the summer weekends... I live in QC... Winter is long and harsh... I am really a noob mechanic but I think this could be à great opportunity to learn. For now, my plan was to do an oil change and drive the car! I'll see if this main seal gets worse through the weeks, if I see the engine consumes to much oil, I'll get it fixed. Should I be more concerned about these issues? Thanks for your feedback!