dcmackintosh

After doing the m20 swap, the speedo cable will not reach the tachometer, so It can't tell me how fast I'm going, anyone know if there is a inexpensive way to make it work?

Use a cheap Garmin Nuvi GPS on your dash.

The expected camber change is easy to calculate, if S is the strut length (compressed) and O is the offset, then:

dC = cos(S/O)

For example, if S = 20" (508mm) and O = 15mm, then dC = 1.0 deg.

I installed mine last weekend but have not measured the alignment. The change in handling in the canyons was subtle, but noticeable. I have the H&R springs, but I think I need to go stiffer in the rear. How much stiffer are the IE Stage 2 kit springs? Are they more biased towards the rear? Another option is to install GC adjusters and springs in the rear. I may still end installing bent struts or coilovers and adjustable camber plates up front sometime in the future.

Another thing that might be worth considering is that the increased track (actually moving the springs outboard), should increase the roll stiffness of that end of the car. This should be linearly proportional to the ratio of the new vs. old track, so it will be a very small effect with these plates. Just increasing the track with less wheel back spacing would not change the roll stiffness, you have to move the springs.

I don't see the crack in your picture but the CSB has been shimmed down. This may have been done to align the drive shaft. The transmission and drive shaft flanges have to be parallel to each other so there is no flex of the guibo.

The conversion was done by an experienced shop (Groma in 2008), so I trust that it was at least initially properly aligned.  It had a new guibo and all other bushings at that time and has less than 5k miles since.  The CSB crack isn't easy to see, but the outer steel rim is split where it meets the lower bracket piece.  I might be able to have a plate welded on to bridge the crack without ruining the rubber.  Worst case, I'll still have to replace it. 

I've only had mine for three weeks and I've put about 1k miles on it.  I don't have to drive it to work, but otherwise it's intended to be a near daily driver and canyon carver (which I can do daily).  I have a few things that need sorting, mostly not related to the conversion (brakes, heater, etc.).  I do have a "grunch" (more vibration that I feel through the seat) under moderate to heavy acceleration in 1st gear only.  We found what appears to be a cracked CSB (between 7 and 8 o'clock in the photo).  I assume this is an e30 CSB with custom body mounts.  Is this a common problem?  How hard is it to pull?  Should I have it welded in place, remove and weld, or replace with an OE one?  Are there reinforced versions available?  I might have cracked it when practicing launches, heh. 

You are focused on the trunk lid, but if the biggerl problem is exhaust fumes, you need to look further - how are the fumes getting in the trunk,and then how are they getting into the cabin? It seems unlikely that they would be going from the tailpipe into the crack under the lid,  and then into the cabin. Look under the rear seat for rust holes, and in front to see if what you are smelling is fumes from oil dripping on hot parts or something like that. The more common complaint about trunk odors is a raw gas smell.

Thanks for the reply.  I have taped over or plugged the holes I could locate between the trunk and cabin, but I think there are some paths that I can't find.  The trunk also seems to pull a significant amount of dust when driving.  I haven't removed the back seat yet, I need to do that.  When I have had the trunk lid very tight (slamming very hard) there seems to be less fumes.  One thing I could easily try is taping around the gap as a test to see if that stops it.  The engine is clean and has no exhaust leaks, so I don't think it's coming from the front of the car. 

Here's a link to the factory diagrams of the parts you're looking for.  Scroll down for the P/Ns.

 

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/USA/2002-M10/L-A/feb1975/browse/bodywork/#tailgate_rear_spoiler

 

I think one of my earlier P/Ns was incorrect.  The other one you're after is: Catch Bracket  P/N 51 24 5 476 140

 

Bob Napier

Portland, OR native and UO Grad

That's very helpful, I hadn't found those diagrams before.  It does look like what I need are parts 8 and 9 to completely refresh it.  The catch bracket might be enough.

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/USA/2002-M10/L-A/feb1975/browse/bodywork/trunk_lid_2

Let me know if you're heading out to the Gorge sometime. We should have a meet out here, maybe along with the vintage show and hillclimb at Maryhill in October, if not before.

The part number 51 24 5 476 145 is the tumbler with key, but I'm thinking I might need the actual latching mechanism.  Most likely this part is okay, though.

I found 51 24 5 476 142 listed on BMW Parts Giant as something called "Plug" for $20, but they don't show a photo.  Is that what's mounted under the trunk lid?

I've got exhaust fumes that I'm pretty certain are coming from the trunk.  I've installed a new trunklid seal, but I'm not able to properly adjust the latch due to too much wear in the pin on trunk side, the latch mechanism, or both.  When I adjust the bracket on the trunk lid so that I don't have to slam it down with excessive force, the lid will move up and down about 1/4".  Are these parts available?  Other tricks for adjustment or repair?  As it is now I would need to add quite a bit of foam either under the lid or under the new seal.

M20 roundie with Easter morning pear blossoms in Hood River, Oregon.  Now with front bumper removed.  The bike rack is more or less a permanent fixture.

Good tips, thanks. The MityVac has worked well on my motorcycles, but I'll see if I can at least borrow a pressure bleeder.

Good tips here, I'll have to try borrowing an IR heat gun after this job to check my adjustment.

I've got a leaking right rear wheel cylinder on my new-to-me '71 and have two new 19mm cylinders (as were installed in 230mm drums by a previous owner to match the IE front brake upgrade), four shoes, and two parking brake cables from IE to install.  My drums appear to be in good shape.  I've done a fair amount of work on disk brakes, but not drums. I've got the blue binder 2002 manual for reference and a MityVac for bleeding. Do I need any special tools to adjust the parking brake or the shoes with the bolt on the backing plates?  Something I can pick up at the local NAPA?  Any other tips?  Thanks.

Post some pictures when you can, we're always interested to see another.

The best bet would be to find a local enthusiast or mechanic to go over the car with you.

195/50-15 is the best size tire to it under stock fenders.  205/60 would likely be too wide, and also too tall.

You can cut your stock springs or buy H&R or other sport springs.  Bilstien Heavy Duty shocks are a popular option for a street car.  I've got the H&R springs with Bilstien Sport shocks and it's a very stiff ride, only good on fairly smooth roads.

Good luck!

Rocan's hinged setup looks really good, and I don't have time or a band saw to fab them up myself.  I hope we'll be able to buy something similar soon.

All three pedals moved a little to the left would be nice. It took me a while to get used to the accelerator being right up against the tunnel and there's barely enough room between the tunnel and the brake pedal for a wide foot.

I can't post a picture easily from my phone, but the pedals appear original. The gas pedal is 1.5" wide and 8" tall, plastic, very close to the tunnel. The gap to the brake pedal is 2.5". I think if the gas pedal were 1" wider it would be perfect.

It took me just a bit of time to get used to the pedal locations, which aren't bad. The heights of the brake and gas pedals are good for heel-and-toe downshifts, but they're a bit far apart and I'd like to have more of my foot on the brake. What have you done to either move the gas pedal to the left or make it wider? I don't have room to make the brake pedal wider and it might be better without the rubber cover.

I didn't watch the show.

Good call. Even an 02 couldn't save it.

Oh no! An eviction notice! Good grief.

That was the worst thing I've ever watched. I didn't give a crap about their personal soap opera, and the 02 was presented as something they were stuck with so they could do the pig Dodge. The little car did look nice, or might have, if they'd let us see more of it.

Great tips, thanks.  I actually have a fiberglass hood, and I don't think it's well sealed around the cowl, nor does it have the louvers near the back edge.  It probably is pulling a lot of air from the engine bay.  I'll work on the trunk seal, although mine is in pretty poor shape and does need to be replaced, and the other areas.

Pelican says they have the OEM trunk seal for $31.  I'll order that unless someone knows of a better one.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/5420/BMW_5420_BDYSEL_pg1.htm#item5

Nice looking car!  I hope they won't give you any trouble with registration there. 

Did you have it registered as a Special Interest Vehicle in Oregon?  I've just done that with mine (in Hood River), although I don't have the metal tag yet.  I'm wondering if anyone has ever been hassled for driving one other than for "exhibitions, parades, club activities and similar uses."  I won't be commuting in town with it or anything, but I will be driving it for fun pretty regularly.  

This one has been popular on the facebooks.  Photo from last Friday in Kings Valley, Oregon.  I'm debating losing the front bumper, it doesn't do much for me.  What do you think?

I have a set of the IE offset camber plates sitting on the shelf. I should be able to get around to installing them early next week before the Targa California.

 

I work at a shop that has an alignment rack, so I will be measuring the alignment before and after and will report the results here. I have H&R sport springs on my tii, so it is not radically lowered. But, the spacers should help the front end. The handling is very fun on most roads but it does understeer at the limit.

Let us know how they work.  Mine should come in the mail this week, but I don't know if I'll be able to install them this weekend.  I was able to do a good bit of 2nd and 3rd gear paved forest service road strafing in the Oregon Coast Range last weekend and the front end could use some help.  I also have a blown rear drum brake cylinder now, so I've got a pair of replacement 19mm wheel cylinders and a set of shoes and parking brake cables on order.  The car is too much fun!

Exhaust fumes are the biggest problem with driving my roundie right now and my trunk lid seal is not in good shape.  Who sells a decent one?  I have a center exit exhaust, which might not help, but I don't think I have any exhaust pipe leaks.  My car also doesn't have a heater hooked up and I get air from the cowl blowing on my legs while moving.  I don't think I have exhaust under the hood, though.

Thanks! I had an Audi and it seems like it took something else.