POKTROKT

On 4/14/2024 at 8:55 PM, bergie33 said:

 

That's right. @POKTROKT, time for you to take one for the team. 

I know I know, I'm in Canada so shipping and duties will easily more than quadruple that price then will have to exchange to our monopoly money.  I may just do it however, was hoping someone else had done it already.

I broke my window regulator spring when reassembling the regulator. 

Does anyone know if this thunderbird spring will fit, it looks exactly like the BMW one. 

B23318A Window Regulator Spring - Larry's Thunderbird & Mustang Parts

WWW.LARRYSTBIRD.COM

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Ford Thunderbird1955, 1956, 1957Power Windows

Thank you!

On 6/10/2018 at 12:11 AM, Forrest_KoogleWerks said:

one more option for air dams with flares, here are some pics of the first couple installed (& being test fit)

@Forrest_KoogleWerks,  did this air dam make it to production? looks really slick.

On 1/20/2021 at 11:27 PM, Mike Self said:

Since you're gonna repaint 'em (or not use 'em if they're OEM) carefully sand down through the repaint and othe original paint.  You should find two layers of primer:  a greyisn green layer and a nice, light grey layer.  That's factory primer, andit's unlikely that a body shop would have used exactly the same primer on a replacement fender.  If instead you find just a single layer of black primer, it may well be a factory replacement fender, as they came from the factory with black primer.  

 

From your pictures, I'd opine that it's an original fender; worth saving for someone with a squarelight that needs one.

 

mike

Thanks for the info, they are definitely a replacement fender and from your opinion and what I've been able to find on the internet, these are OEM replacement fenders. 

What would these be worth? 

OEM?

They came on my car and looked to have been replaced at some point but not painted well.  I'm going with turbo flares and rather save these as they are in very good shape. 

26 minutes ago, SteadFast said:

 

Rolled fenders?  How bad do you rub in spirited driving?  

Rear rolled fenders, intact fronts. The front was rubbing before i adjusted the height, it was way too low.  Haven't had any rubbing since even during spirited driving. 

8 hours ago, MrAdams said:

13x6  BBS

205s all around

Love this look, I'm going to have to go to 13s next year, offset on these?

8 hours ago, MrAdams said:

is that an old schwinn? nice setup 

Good eye! it is an 2001 Joey Garcia Schwinn BMX

On 5/1/2019 at 1:59 PM, POKTROKT said:

Rims:

Front 15x7 et22

Rear 15x7 et19

 

Tires: falken 195/50/15

 

Suspension: stock (soon to be lowered, will post after pictures then)

 

Finally lowered!!

On 5/20/2019 at 4:22 PM, BigLiquid530 said:

I believe they are BBS Ra

They are 15x7 Exip ET13 but had the offset modified. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BX7yiiGFhLP/

Removed spring perch

Rims:

Front 15x7 et22

Rear 15x7 et19

Tires: falken 195/50/15

Suspension: stock (soon to be lowered, will post after pictures then)

Before I contact IE does anyone have a pair in good condition?

3 hours ago, TobyB said:

Negative adjustable camber, for the GC plates.

 

The 2002 is too positive for anything other than sedate motoring.

 

t

oops sorry, I meant positive caster (not camber) when moving the top point rearwards. 

Those CG ones look to have some fixed positive camber as well, thanks for posting.

6 minutes ago, jireland2002 said:

They are designed to add a little caster by moving the strut top to the rear.

Thanks for confirming! 

I’ve reached out to IE for installation instructions but while I wait for those maybe some answers can be had here.

The plates look to be designed off-center in the fore aft (north-south) direction, I assume for a little caster adjustment.

For those running these camber plates, what is the preference, rear or front bias?

39 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

 

That's called the Motion Ratio

 

Front: ~0.967

Rear: ~0.593

 

In simple terms, you multiply that ratio by your respective spring rate to get the effective rate; but an analysis is more detailed than that for weight transfer, braking, cornering, etc.

 

 

Yes. What do you want the car to do?

 

 

Back of the envelope observations say the car will understeer near the limits of adhesion.

Thanks for sharing this info!  got it, STATIC STATE multiply by these FR and RR ratios, DYNAMIC not so easy to define.

The car will be used mostly cruising, the odd spirited driving (not too many twisty roads around here) and eventually a track day here and there.

I don't know the exact weight distribution of a 2002 (googleing it) but I agree, sounds like I should have gone with stiffer rears. 

Once i get a set of sway bars and a track day or two under my belt I will grab some stiffer rears.  

1 hour ago, Jimmy said:

Just curious, how did you choose your spring rates? Stock 02s have a stiffer rear spring due to the leverage of the rear suspension design. 

Interesting, I hadn't considered leverage, just learned something new.  May have to measure the geometry to calculate the effective rate of the spring for a true front to rear rate ratio.   

The rates were as suggested by Jeff at Ireland Engineering based on what I want the car to do.  

Thanks for the responses.

Yes this is for a coilover setup up, with bilstein sports front and rear. 

Springs rates will be for a streetable setup, 300 fronts and 275 rears. 

2 hours ago, irdave said:

How nice of suspension do you want?  I've got some MCS 2 way non-remote dampers built on tii spindles I need to list in the for sale section...  They make my new rebound adjustable Konis feel very... basic.

 

http://motioncontrolsuspension.com/buyers-guide/2-way-non-remote/

 

 Let me look these up, are they shorter? if they are adjustable they may work oka with the bilstein sport rears which I already have.

Anyone know if there are any alternatives to using the bilstein VW rabbit strut inserts? 

I'll keep looking but seems like the 34-184530 sports seem to be back ordered .

Dual 44mm Mikunis - running 6.5 psi

This vintage ad rates it at 210hp

3 hours ago, Preyupy said:

Not at all, it just seems like a bandaid on a knife wound. Why not put flat top pistons in it? You get much better combustion control without having the flame front have to work around the dome.  With all the cost and work to build all the systems on the outside of the engine it seems a bit strange to start off with a high compression engine.  

 

I know what a custom MLS gasket goes for ( I have about 8 of them on the shelf for M10 & M30 engines).  Build a flat top piston bottom end and sell off the 9.5:1 short block to someone that is running NA. 

 

You got it working and that is what matters. 

I don't disagree.  I don't claim to be a master engine builder, this is my first turbo engine and have learned quite a bit including that the CR is not ideal.  Without going too deep into it, there are a multitude of reasons why I didn't use flat or dished pistons.  For one the engine came out of a 320i race car with the cartech kit, forged pistons, etc.  it didn't seem like a stretch to use the same pistons. The dome is not very pronounced and was hoping a thicker gasket would give me the CR i was after. 

Today I measure 8.5 to 1 ratio, left quench areas to help combustion/swirl and seems to work fine for now.  You're right however, I will build another bottom end in the future with the proper pistons. 

This is my setup 

14 hours ago, Preyupy said:

There is a reason BMW opened up the combustion chambers AND used DISHED pistons to get the compression ratio down on the Turbo’s. 

condescending post! is this typical of you @Preyupy ? 

13 hours ago, Einspritz said:

 

Are you using a knock sensor either alone or in conjunction with a Lambda sensor and timing retard?

 

If so, did you calculate the knock frequencies to make sure the sensor (Hz) is appropriate?

 

I observe knock on my system while I cannot hear it, which changes with the type of fuel I am using. it helps to know this as it is integral to your tuning under full throttle / full boost / full load.

This is a blowthru system therefore no knock sensor.  It is on MSD boost timing control with a timing retard knob.  My comment above was in comparison to how it was running before.  Granted that my hearing is very good I may not be catching every uncontrolled ignition event.  The car runs at 6.5psi, i cranked it to 8psi to see if I could get it to give me an audible knock, nothing yet on 94 octane pump fuel. Effective compression ratio at 8psi is about 12 to 1, i'll bring it down to 6.5psi and just drive it.