rufurt

Looking to by automatic shift cover for the center console, you know the part with P, R, O, D, 2, 1 on it. part # 51161827447 

also looking for the brushes, 51161805947 and 51161805948

cheers

Do you happen to have a right side rear window bracket, 51361827406 ?

How about a automatic center console shift cover 51161827447 ? or the brushes that go with it?

I saw you sold the driver's side window regulator, let me know if you find another. 

Cheers

Painted my seats. I choose a warmer non-BMW color. It is Cork from the Porsche catalog. 

Interestingly the different parts of the seat faded differently. The non-perforated parts faded to a weird tan-green, while the perforated stayed much closer to the original Gobi tan. 

So far the adhesion is good. 

The paint is form Classic Dye Products, Cork 9359

Hi Brandon, Do you have rear window latches?

Still have the carb brackets? I am interested in the large one.

thanks

Hi Brandon,  Do you have a automatic gear shift lever cover? part 51161827447

thanks

Hey Resra, I appreciate the offer, but I wouldn't feel right taking it as a spare if Mosman58 needs it to get his car on the road. If all goes to hell and mine dies, well I think I might just buy a manual transmission and put it in. 

So after a week or so of driving, probably about 20-30 miles or so, the noise has faded away. I guess whatever it was finally "primed" or broke in. I still listen and am still anxious, but that will fade too (with more milage). 

Resra, I thank you for your offer (and would still like it as a spare in case the worst happens) but if mosman58 needs it now to get his car going please let him have it. 

Right now, I can drive, and that makes me immensely happy. Just got an AF ratio sensor and gauge, so I can hopefully dial in my jetting.Thanks guys.

When I had my car apart, I had the wiring harness out. I decided to trace, verify continuity, identify, and label everything I could. That saved me lots later on when the harness was in the car. Once I got the harness in the car I noticed something odd with my blinkers. The right blinker blinked a little slower than the left. Originally i thought it had something to do with the used flasher relay I purchased to replace the old one that didn't work well (at all really).

Then, when indicating right, the hazard light would flash as well as the blinker. But only when indicating right. 

I noticed that when I had the parking lights on and indicated right that the parking light would blink. I wasn't blinking the correct filament in the bulb! Whereas when I indicated left with the parking lights on the parking filament stayed on and the blinker filament would flash. 

I pulled the blinker housing off the car. First thing I noticed was (first image) was that the bracket had come loose from the housing.

On BMWs lots of stuff grounds to body, and there weren't any brown ground wires in the blinker housing. Looking at the bracket, it has to ground through the body screws that hold the housing to the car. To test, I ran a temporary ground from the bracket to the body and then indicated right. Blinker filament flashed and parking filament stayed off (parking lights off). With parking lights on, parking filament stayed lit and only the blinker filament flashed. Also the hazard light in the car stayed off. 

In the second image you see the brass ferrule that the bracket is supposed to be attached to. Loads of corrosion on it. After sanding it back to clean brass and sanding the mating surfaces of the bracket, I pushed the ferrule back through the bracket. A little tapping with a drift peened over enough of the ferrule to keep the bracket on. 

I even tested my old flasher relay. It blinked 2-3 times and quit. Oh well, that truly is broken. I'll keep it as a back up parts. 

Thought this might help anyone else with electrical problems. Not the first time a funky ground has been a problem. 

Got new tires installed. I love they way they look. Guys at the shop were very curious as some had never seen a 2002 before. Living in the land of rust I understand. 

I also hooked up the Starter Realy so I can no longer crank the car while in gear. One more thing completed. 

Just ordered an AF ratio gauge to I can sort my carb.

Here is my 1976 automatic that I have been working on these past few years, it sat in storage for over a decade. Just got the transmission re-installed last week. Body work is done.

Need to buy some trim parts (as the originals are pretty shot). Don't like the biege interior so I might dye it black. Needs lots of little things like taillight gaskets (those aren't going to break the bank, but jeez they are $75 a piece). New seat cushions are completely crazy though.

I have had it since 1997 and it was my first car. It's what I learned to turn a wrench on. 

Called the shop yesterday. They had to make a bushing for the ATF pump since they couldn't get parts for it (they also said they'd never do one of these transmissions again, because of that). They hope that it was made correctly and that isn't the source of the whine. I kinda doubt that it is the source, but who knows. The sound seems loudest after I let off the gas, but it may just be easier to hear after the engine noise reduces. 

They said to drive it some more and see if it "breaks in". So... that is what I'll do. I'll drive it a little each day after work and see if the whine noise goes away. I guess it'll work or break, right? 

Resra, give me a week to see what happens. Maybe I'll get lucky. At least i will get to play with the carbs more and get the jetting tuned in. 

Wow, thanks resra. I will call them tomorrow and ask some questions.

Maybe it is just "priming". I can hope at least. 

I'll call them on Monday.

about 5 quarts. Dexron 3. 

I have a 1976 automatic. I just got the transmission back from Peter Schmid Transmissions in California , they rebuilt it for me. It had a bad pump that was also repaired (which probably contributed to the gears slipping). I Installed it today and filled it up with fluid. Got it running, fluid looks good. So far, so good. 

Just took it for a test drive around the block. Soon as it switches to 2nd gear it starts whinning. Faster I go, the faster the whine. Slow to a stop it downshifts to first and the whine goes away. I headed back to the garage and check fluid, still between the lines.

According to the troublshooting guide from the manual, a whine in only certain gears could be the planetary gears. I don't know if they got replaced when they rebuilt it. Any one else have this issue? 

I called Peter Schmid, but I think they took today off for the holiday. I will call back on Monday and ask their opinion and see if they had to replace the planetary. 

Ugh. I feel defeated. I just got the transmission with high hopes that all would be well and then this. 

Warmed up the car last night (took a while as it was a cold evening) and then switched the vacuum line that goes to the ditributor from the manifold to the carb's ported line. 

Having it hooked the carb port dropped the neutral idle down from around 1900rpm to about 900rpm. At first blush this seems to work. I readjusted the idle speed to about 1100 rpm.

Wasn't able to drive it around last night, and I might be done driving for the season as our first snowfall is tonight and they are salting the roads. As you well know, our cars will melt up here in the rust belt if driven in the winter.

I guess this gives me a chance to work on the interior. Not that I can affford $450 for a single seat pad. Maybe I'll buy some new carpet. Though if I don't buy carpet I can buy a 123 dizzy, heh, who needs carpet.

If I get time, I will take out the dizzy, check it, rebuild if necessary, and plot an advance curve. Thanks for the help. If I get a chance to test drive I'll let you know how it goes.

Simeon, yes, vac advance line was unplugged from distrubutor and the line plugged when I set timing. Right now the vac line is connected to the manifold.

When I had the idle set lower (set to about 1000 when in neutral), the engine would eventually stall when coming to a stop, but not right when I let off the gas. I should test those conditions again and see if it dies while coasting (foot of gas) or only when at a full stop. The load on engine might be different while coasting versus stopped while in drive.

Toby, Ahh the progression drillings. I have read some of you other posts about them. So if the throttle plate was thinned near the holes, would that allow more air to feed the idle and deal with the extra load?

Has anyone use a throttle-up pod on a 38? Can it be done? It makes sense that it would help. 

Thanks for the advice guys. 

Thanks for the correction on the 164. So vacuum advance. Does it have mechanical advance at all? Would seem redundant.

I'll try ported and see what I get for idle.

I have a 5568. Was pondering using it to plot an advance curve. When measuring the advance, you achieve desired rpm, set the advance on the 5568 till you see OTC mark?

I ssume this is done with vacuun line attached to see if is functioning corrctly?

Haven't given much thought to an AFR gauge.

thanks for the advice.

Interesting points. My old Clymer manual recommends 2800 rpm for a 1976 atuomatic at 25 degrees BTC. I have de-smogged the engine. I have Ireland's shorty headers and a 292 cam. With all the variables I guess I should just try different settings and see what seems to run best. I am willing to try lower rpms for 25 BTC. It might help. 

From what I can tell the 164 distrubutor is mechanical advance and vacuum retard. I have the vacuum line to the distro coming off the manifold, some people like the line coming off the carb, which i believe they call "ported". I will give that a try to see if it makes a difference.

I could always go Pertronix. 

Beautiful engine Conserv.

I followed the Weber instructions on best lean idle. It was running lean. After I changed some of the jetting it seems to be running well (originallly idle jets were 45's and main's 135). 

If I had a vacuum leak, it would allow in extra air, which to compenstate I would have had to richen the mixture via jetting (idle jet I suppose). It would then make the carb appear to be running at best lean idle. 

I set the idle under load, (in drive with chocks in front of the wheels), but that leads to high idle when not under load (neutral). How would the vacuum leak cause it to run so much higher ( at 2000rpm )under no load? I am befuddled. 

I'll search for a leak, just to be safe.

The engine was warm and off choke when I set the timing and dwell. Ugh, it's like herding cats. Fix one think and another problem surfaces that is intertwined with the first. 

Sorry, I thought the sticker was yours. Didn't mean to mis-attribute it.

You are correct distributor is a 164. Man, I hated doing the dwell. I wish I had a set of your improved points so I didn't have to trial and error the gap. I am envious.

I appreciate the help. The automatic is a persnickety beast i guess.

I have a 1976 automatic. Weber 38's. Electric choke.

Mainjet: 145

Idlejet: 50

Air: 75

Needle: 250

Emulsion: f66

Float: 40

I've set valves, timing, and dwell (60 degrees, new points). Timing the BB (25 BTC) at 2400RPM (according to '76mintgrün'02 's sticker

)

It runs well. Starts alright. A month ago it started easier, but it is getting colder up here in Massachusetts so it needs a little more time to warm up. Have to apply a little pressure to throttle for a minute to keep it from stalling. Might need to adjust fast idle screw, not sure.

I had set the idle to about 1000-1100 rpm while warm, but when in gear the engine would stall when coming to a stop. I upped the idle so while in drive but parked/stopped the idle was near 900rpm. That means the neutral idle sits at about 2000rpm.

Just rebuilt the engine and transmission, new oil/fluid in both. I didn't do the transmission myself, had a shop do it. Trustworthy place, but I didn't do it myself so I can't attest to it being perfect.

I would like the neutral idle to be lower, but don't want to stall at stopsigns, what do you think?