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rufurt

Turbo
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About rufurt

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  1. hi Matt, Do you have a right rear window latch?
  2. An old Polaroid from 1998 after a trip to the beach with my buddy. I'd had the car about a year. I'm on the right. A few years later in 2000 Now If you notice, I never had the rocker trim on 20 years ago and I still haven't figured out how to get it to attach.
  3. rufurt

    rufurt

  4. Put new brushes in my automatics shift cover. Even wrote a FAQ for it.
  5. Thanks John. Excellent photo. That helps.
  6. The brushed in my automatic (1976) shift cover had become brittle with age and almost half had broken off, leaving it looking very poor. You can't buy the original parts anymore. So I though I'd make my own. It took a while to find something similar enough to look right, cheap, and the right size. Took a while but I got 2 out of the 3. They size isn't exactly right, but we'll fix that. I ordered a strip brush from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/74405t1 You can buy it by the foot, which is nice, as I didn't want to buy in bulk. The bristles are 0.006" in diameter, the bristles in the original varied from 0.006"-0.009". The width from back of base to end of bristle is 3/4" which is longer than the original's 0.66". So you'll need to trim the bristles. Here is pic of the brush (after i started trimming) here is the inside of the shift cover with old brushes removed. Using scissors seemed like a bad idea (unless you are a barber), so I decided to clamp the bristle in place with a straight-edge. It will hold them in place and make so you can adjust the depth of cut. My first cut was exactly the amount I need to trim to get the width down to 0.66". Use a new razor blade so you don't have to press hard. When I took it out to measure, I had only cut about half what I needed. What happens is, as you drag the blade along the bristles you end up tilting them from perpendicular to the spine. They bunch up together and hide under the straight edge. Since I didn't know exactly how much extra needs to protrude beyond the straight-edge, I had to creep up on the desired width with successive cuts. Now you'll need to bend the strip to match the curve in the cover. A vise helps. Do a little at a time and then move the strip. Check the bend often. The strip bends more towards the aft part of the shift cover. Once you are satisfied with the bend. It's time to glue them in. I used a little JB-Weld Kwik (who wants to wait 4 hours for it to set) Here is the cover with brushes installed The only imperfection from the outside is the angle of the bristles. Bending the strip causes the bristles to fan upwards a little. They don't stay in the plane of the cover. I can live with that. Here is how the shift lever looks in the bristles (on the bench). It moves smoothly through the bristles. One more piece of the car looking good. Next is the shift numbers (notice the vacant slot on the left). I have no idea why this image appears here, I can't seem to delete it. oh well. Extra image of the brush.
  7. Great pic, that helps a lot. I can see that the panel distorts some. I was leery of bending the board to much as I don't want to break it Did the other end of that panel go over or under the column cover? Thanks
  8. I am trying to install the under dash panel the covers the steering column in my 1976 Automatic. I see the bracket attached to the steering column, and have read the panel screws into that. What I have noticed is that the holes on the panel are further apart the holes in the bracket. Only the passenger side panel hole to the bracket line up well. I have purchased a new panel and its hole match the original, so it doesn't seem to be a mistake. I seem to lack a bit of understanding on how the holes in the panel and bracket mate. Also, does the front of the panel go above or below the steering column cover (not the padded one). The original panel had clip on sheet metal nuts so that leads me to believe it goes above the cover and the screws go through the cover into the panel sheet metal nuts. It doesn't fit above the cover well at all. I am afraid I will break it if I force it. I have seen images of it both above and below the cover. Just wondering how it was originally. I can always transfer the clip-nuts to the cover and have the panel screw into it from below. thanks,
  9. That was it (I think) the little seat belt that relay. I disconnected it after I found it above the hood latch. The Brake light went out. Plugged it back in to see if it would replicate the problem. About 3 seconds after I turned the key the relay clicked and the light went out. My guess is it got stuck on after when I moved it around laying carpet. In my struggle to disconnect I think I unstuck it. I am leaving it disconnected as my car doesn't have any of the other bits that make it work anyway. It was a vestigial relay that didn't do anything. I rechecked and am still getting about 10 Ohms from Brown/Blue to ground. Everything seems to work though. Thanks a bunch.
  10. Hi All, The Brake light on the dash is on and won't go out in my 1976 Automatic. I checked the connections that are supposed to trigger it. I disconnected the brown/blue wire to handbrake switch, the brake fluid reservoir, and the brake pressure balance switch. The light stayed on even with all those wires disconnected. Since it is a 1976 the Brake light won't light up for low fuel as there isn't a connection for that. Only 2 wires to fuel tank for the gauge. My first thought is that there is a break in the Brown/Blue wire's insulation and that is grounding itself somewhere. When I tested the Brown/Blue to ground I got continuity. I started looking through wires for a break. Haven't found one yet. Next I took out the instrument cluster. I disconnected the large circular connector. I plugged my multi-meter into the 5 hole (Brown/Blue wire) and then to ground. No connection. That leads me to think that the Brown/Blue isn't grounding itself through a break. I checked 5 to handbrake wire end (Brown/Blue) and got continuity, just to be sure. I then stuck the probe into the 6 hole, Green/White (this is power from the fuse 12) to ground and got the beep of continuity. What? If that already has ground why would the Brake light even be on, wouldn't it short to ground? I checked a few other holes on the circle connector and a few more seem to be grounded to the body? I turned the ignition switch, the lights work, signals work, even the wee lights that light up the gear selector came on. I am so confused. Any ideas? thanks,
  11. Back in college, I had a CD of radial engine noises from aircraft. https://aircraftrecords.com/products/round-sounds-vol-2 I had that cranked up on the stereo and my buddy gets in the car. I think we were listening to the T-28 idling after engine start. My buddy says, " Man, you car sounds weird today" Took him a while to figure it out.
  12. I am in the same boat except I still have the plastic (faded cracked and glued back together) numbers without the top layer. I heard that some people are taking an image of the numbers, printing them on transparency film and using them on a backer of sorts. Not a bad idea. No one seems to have any NOS for this part. I've looked, found a site that "has" them, placed an order only to get an email the next day saying "oops that isn't in stock" Here's the back side of mine before I glued it. On top it is just the white of the plastic.
  13. I heard back from the BMW Archive group. My '02 rolled off the line May 24th, 1976 and delivered to North America on May 31st. Kinda cool to know exactly when your car came off the line. I think I'll save money and not buy a VIN plate. The number's still pressed into the steel on the passenger side quarter panel, though it is covered with paint. My engine number does not match however. Oh well, I didn't really think it would.
  14. Tried ordering the brushes. It accepted payment, but the next day refunded as they are out of stock. oh well.
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