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About rufurt

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  1. Hi Brandon, Do you have rear window latches?
  2. Still have the carb brackets? I am interested in the large one. thanks
  3. Hi Brandon, Do you have a automatic gear shift lever cover? part 51161827447 thanks
  4. Hey Resra, I appreciate the offer, but I wouldn't feel right taking it as a spare if Mosman58 needs it to get his car on the road. If all goes to hell and mine dies, well I think I might just buy a manual transmission and put it in.
  5. So after a week or so of driving, probably about 20-30 miles or so, the noise has faded away. I guess whatever it was finally "primed" or broke in. I still listen and am still anxious, but that will fade too (with more milage). Resra, I thank you for your offer (and would still like it as a spare in case the worst happens) but if mosman58 needs it now to get his car going please let him have it. Right now, I can drive, and that makes me immensely happy. Just got an AF ratio sensor and gauge, so I can hopefully dial in my jetting.Thanks guys.
  6. When I had my car apart, I had the wiring harness out. I decided to trace, verify continuity, identify, and label everything I could. That saved me lots later on when the harness was in the car. Once I got the harness in the car I noticed something odd with my blinkers. The right blinker blinked a little slower than the left. Originally i thought it had something to do with the used flasher relay I purchased to replace the old one that didn't work well (at all really). Then, when indicating right, the hazard light would flash as well as the blinker. But only when indicating right. I noticed that when I had the parking lights on and indicated right that the parking light would blink. I wasn't blinking the correct filament in the bulb! Whereas when I indicated left with the parking lights on the parking filament stayed on and the blinker filament would flash. I pulled the blinker housing off the car. First thing I noticed was (first image) was that the bracket had come loose from the housing. On BMWs lots of stuff grounds to body, and there weren't any brown ground wires in the blinker housing. Looking at the bracket, it has to ground through the body screws that hold the housing to the car. To test, I ran a temporary ground from the bracket to the body and then indicated right. Blinker filament flashed and parking filament stayed off (parking lights off). With parking lights on, parking filament stayed lit and only the blinker filament flashed. Also the hazard light in the car stayed off. In the second image you see the brass ferrule that the bracket is supposed to be attached to. Loads of corrosion on it. After sanding it back to clean brass and sanding the mating surfaces of the bracket, I pushed the ferrule back through the bracket. A little tapping with a drift peened over enough of the ferrule to keep the bracket on. I even tested my old flasher relay. It blinked 2-3 times and quit. Oh well, that truly is broken. I'll keep it as a back up parts. Thought this might help anyone else with electrical problems. Not the first time a funky ground has been a problem.
  7. Got new tires installed. I love they way they look. Guys at the shop were very curious as some had never seen a 2002 before. Living in the land of rust I understand. I also hooked up the Starter Realy so I can no longer crank the car while in gear. One more thing completed. Just ordered an AF ratio gauge to I can sort my carb.
  8. Here is my 1976 automatic that I have been working on these past few years, it sat in storage for over a decade. Just got the transmission re-installed last week. Body work is done. Need to buy some trim parts (as the originals are pretty shot). Don't like the biege interior so I might dye it black. Needs lots of little things like taillight gaskets (those aren't going to break the bank, but jeez they are $75 a piece). New seat cushions are completely crazy though. I have had it since 1997 and it was my first car. It's what I learned to turn a wrench on.
  9. Called the shop yesterday. They had to make a bushing for the ATF pump since they couldn't get parts for it (they also said they'd never do one of these transmissions again, because of that). They hope that it was made correctly and that isn't the source of the whine. I kinda doubt that it is the source, but who knows. The sound seems loudest after I let off the gas, but it may just be easier to hear after the engine noise reduces. They said to drive it some more and see if it "breaks in". So... that is what I'll do. I'll drive it a little each day after work and see if the whine noise goes away. I guess it'll work or break, right? Resra, give me a week to see what happens. Maybe I'll get lucky. At least i will get to play with the carbs more and get the jetting tuned in.
  10. Wow, thanks resra. I will call them tomorrow and ask some questions. Maybe it is just "priming". I can hope at least.
  11. I have a 1976 automatic. I just got the transmission back from Peter Schmid Transmissions in California , they rebuilt it for me. It had a bad pump that was also repaired (which probably contributed to the gears slipping). I Installed it today and filled it up with fluid. Got it running, fluid looks good. So far, so good. Just took it for a test drive around the block. Soon as it switches to 2nd gear it starts whinning. Faster I go, the faster the whine. Slow to a stop it downshifts to first and the whine goes away. I headed back to the garage and check fluid, still between the lines. According to the troublshooting guide from the manual, a whine in only certain gears could be the planetary gears. I don't know if they got replaced when they rebuilt it. Any one else have this issue? I called Peter Schmid, but I think they took today off for the holiday. I will call back on Monday and ask their opinion and see if they had to replace the planetary. Ugh. I feel defeated. I just got the transmission with high hopes that all would be well and then this.
  12. Warmed up the car last night (took a while as it was a cold evening) and then switched the vacuum line that goes to the ditributor from the manifold to the carb's ported line. Having it hooked the carb port dropped the neutral idle down from around 1900rpm to about 900rpm. At first blush this seems to work. I readjusted the idle speed to about 1100 rpm. Wasn't able to drive it around last night, and I might be done driving for the season as our first snowfall is tonight and they are salting the roads. As you well know, our cars will melt up here in the rust belt if driven in the winter. I guess this gives me a chance to work on the interior. Not that I can affford $450 for a single seat pad. Maybe I'll buy some new carpet. Though if I don't buy carpet I can buy a 123 dizzy, heh, who needs carpet. If I get time, I will take out the dizzy, check it, rebuild if necessary, and plot an advance curve. Thanks for the help. If I get a chance to test drive I'll let you know how it goes.
  13. Simeon, yes, vac advance line was unplugged from distrubutor and the line plugged when I set timing. Right now the vac line is connected to the manifold. When I had the idle set lower (set to about 1000 when in neutral), the engine would eventually stall when coming to a stop, but not right when I let off the gas. I should test those conditions again and see if it dies while coasting (foot of gas) or only when at a full stop. The load on engine might be different while coasting versus stopped while in drive.

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