Stevenc22

All good. The front cover gasket only holds oil, not coolant, so no way it came from front cover gasket. Glad it is sorted!

Yup, Jerry did 2 pumps for me as well. Slow but his pricing is the best and he knows what he is doing.

Be careful jacking on the front sub frame. When lowering the car, i have had the jack slide out from under the subframe since its metal on metal and can move. Have a rubber pad between the jack and the front subframe creates enough friction that the jack doesn't slip when lowering the car.

Your lifting and jack stand points are all good. The front subframes can take the weight but they do tend to get a few minor dents over the years especially if you don't use pads.

1 hour ago, ajordan282 said:

 resurrecting this old post.  where are these sealing rings?  where the injector threads in, or somewhere along the injector supply lines?  The penske link ist tot.

There are no special gaskets on the supply lines. They must be talking about the injector gasket. #10 in this diagram.

Fellow South African here. Why remake the vent hole? Just run the vent directly out the trunk floor. I doubt you still have your Charcoal filter and even if you do, i doubt its doing anything after 40+ years?

My '72 tii, you can see I sent the vent out the rear trunk floor rather than back through the interior of the car into the engine bay.

Technically the Weber does not need the fuel return at all. You could remove the valve and the return line all together. Most people with a Weber do not use the return at all. 

Do you not have the aluminum railing along the top half of the door? That is super critical to holding the door seal. Only the lower half of the seal gets glued, the top half is wedged into the aluminum frame. If you don't have the aluminum frame, you need to get it and pop rivet it into place. The door seal will never stay in place without the frame. The gasket doesn't even have a flat surface for glueing at the top half since its made to wedge into the frame.

Glue only. Just clean and reglue. Maybe use a different type of glue.

I fill all the cracks with 5 minute epoxy. The foam soaks it in like water and it seeps and strengths the whole area. Because it seeps, the crack will still have a low spot, that i come back and fill with super glue and sand. Bondo would work fine as well.

Yes, the original is perfect!

Im with everyone else. Clean and JB weld for now. Likely it will hold for years. After a few years of driving you will likely need to pull the engine or head for something else and then you can fix it right.

Yeah. Use a skinny nut and a washer. 

On 3/16/2024 at 9:37 AM, JQ02 said:

Yeah. I would like to plan for it while the whole car is apart, but with adding a turbo and EFI I'm pushing the limits on getting the car back on the road this year.

You could install an electric AC compressor in the battery tray area. I bought one when i was planning my AC system, but never ended up using it since my battery tray is removed so no place to mount the electric AC compressor. But the electric AC systems are very nice, with built in relays and triggers for the fans and AC controls.

The buzzer made an annoying sound if you started your car without your seatbelt plugged in.

Consider repainting the trim with trim paint. It will look brand new.

I bought a Southern Air Mini Kool which is the smallest modern AC made. It fit fine between ignition and glove box but in the end I didn't use it since I didn't want to build a custom console around it. I still have it if any body wants to try it. 

https://www.southernrods.com/southern-air-mini-kooler-under-dash-a-c-only-unit-only.html

Its a very standard part, everyone stocks it. Even autozone

No you just change the rotor to a standard rotor to remove the limiter. Its a RPM limiter, not a resistor limiter.

That is not a dumb question since you have a very weird rotor. You likely have the rotor with a built in limiter.

This is the #1 position

This is what a normal rotor looks like

Put the cap on and add the #1 spark plug lead to the cap directly above where the rotor is pointing.

E34 

That being said, its almost impossible to buy nice chrome grills cheap. Complete chrome grill sets often sell for $1500+ USED.

Please note there are 2 version of the chrome grills, deep (Early cars) and shallow (middle cars) headlight buckets. I believe you want the shallow buckets.

The Vietnamese company Bumper Automobile is starting to make reproductions. Maybe get a quote from them.

A left and a right front grill for BMW E10 2002

BUMPERAUTOMOBILE.COM

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BMW 2002 Late Model Side Grille Set (RH+LH). Made from stainless steel 304 and never rust. The inside has some small hammer marks. The outside is polished to a mirror finish. Mounting: This is fitted to the car using a few nuts as originally. Fits: BMW E10 (1966-August 1973) and BMW...

A center grill for BMW 2002/1600 E10

BUMPERAUTOMOBILE.COM

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Front center kidney grill for BMW E6 and E10 Early model cars. Made from stainless steel 304 and never rust. The inside has some small hammer marks. The outside is polished to a mirror finish. Mounting: This is fitted to the car using a few nuts as originally. Fits: BMW E10...

You have a 72 roundie style nose that uses all chrome grills. This is my 72

late model nose which uses the plastic grills has these tabs in the middle, which you don't have.

Wipe down area especially weep hole and see if it starts leaking again. if it is coming from weep hole, time for a new pump.

After almost 2 years i received my grills back from restoration.

I'm very happy with the outcome. Cost was about $1,100 including shipping both ways.

Before Pictures