Stevenc22

Very nice 👍 

You have a timing light now. You can adjust the distributor on the fly with the engine running to dial in the advance. 39 degrees at 1k is crazy high. Probably need 12-14 at 1K. Loosen the 10mm bolt holding the distributor and rotate it one way and then the other to find which way lowers the advance and then rotate it to lower the advance. Then you can properly time it off the flywheel ball.

With the radiator removed, it can be done in the car. Not easy but can be done. You also need to cut the Kfish belt cover since the AC belt will need to exit the bottom of the Kfish belt cover.

You need to remove the radiator anyway to install the condenser in the nose, so 2 birds 1 stone.

I have bought BMW factory trim twice. Both were a chore to bend and mold around corners.

Pablo, you did a nice job trimming!

Loud thuds make me wonder if timing is off. Have you check the timing?

Here is the generic seal installed. 

Blue coil, no resistor wire and you are good to go. Might not be the highest performance combination, but it is the simplest and most reliable combination.

Yeah buddy bought his windshield from Winshields to Go for $280 couple months ago.

So i just solved this. I had a W&N aftermarket seal on my passenger side and the door would not close without a serious slam. In an extreme move, i cut the seal right at the belt line trim and removed the bottom half of the seal. The door closes perfectly. So now i knew the problem was the bottom half around the striker.

I then bought a generic seal and installed it on the bottom half. I super glued the seal to the top half and the transition is almost factory. Door closes perfectly.

This generic seal has an integrated pinch trim and so no gluing is required. 

Ill post pictures later when i get home.

1 hour ago, Masterbuilder46 said:

Very neat upgrade!  I see there are many manufacturers a 508 type compressor.  Is every version the same, configuration/mounting wise?   Is there a belt model number we know fits?  

There are many clones of a Sanden 508. They are all the same and will fit perfectly. Some are very cheaply made, so try to buy a good quality clone.

The correct belt is a Contitecg 13 x 810  W0133-1786685

I cant find the specs on the Lucs HP12, but If the primary resistance is over 3 ohms, you don't need a resistor. I would actually buy a Bosch or Beru blue coil and dump the resistor completely especially if you cant find a suitable resistor. 

The hose connecting to the sender looks like trash. Are you sure its not leaking at the hose? Does your sender have the sleeve to hose adapter?

On 5/29/2024 at 1:38 PM, rstclark said:

Thanks Steve 

Yes I have the hardware and instructions from Dave and include that with the bracket

The Hobie Dave AC bracket is all the same as when Dave produced them, just moved on to a new source that can be purchased from the website

thanks for the clarification 

I think Mark wants the list on the website so the bolts can be bought and ordered ahead of time. I agree. I have needed to refer to the list of bolts to find a certain size and couldn't easily find it since it wasn't online. i now keep a scan in my cloud.

I think Mark means the bolts, nuts and belt required to install the Hobiedave bracket. Hobiedave always sent the list of bolts, nuts and belt with the bracket.

Grab some Vinyl cleaner. 

Install a new exhaust manifold with integrated heat shield

Heat Shield / Exhaust Gasket – M10 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

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Each

26 minutes ago, Sean Murphy said:

 

 

Yeah, I've seen many recommendations to move to NGK in the forum.  Would NGK Spark Plug BP6ES 7811 be the right one?  

7811 is correct. Make sure you set the gap when you receive them as the stock gap is too big.

By the way, you never said what symptoms you are experiencing and trying to fix?

Just put in a new rotor. If you don't trust it, replace it.

You are running a blue coil. Did you remove / bypass the resistor?

All good. The front cover gasket only holds oil, not coolant, so no way it came from front cover gasket. Glad it is sorted!

Yup, Jerry did 2 pumps for me as well. Slow but his pricing is the best and he knows what he is doing.

Be careful jacking on the front sub frame. When lowering the car, i have had the jack slide out from under the subframe since its metal on metal and can move. Have a rubber pad between the jack and the front subframe creates enough friction that the jack doesn't slip when lowering the car.

Your lifting and jack stand points are all good. The front subframes can take the weight but they do tend to get a few minor dents over the years especially if you don't use pads.

1 hour ago, ajordan282 said:

 resurrecting this old post.  where are these sealing rings?  where the injector threads in, or somewhere along the injector supply lines?  The penske link ist tot.

There are no special gaskets on the supply lines. They must be talking about the injector gasket. #10 in this diagram.

Fellow South African here. Why remake the vent hole? Just run the vent directly out the trunk floor. I doubt you still have your Charcoal filter and even if you do, i doubt its doing anything after 40+ years?

My '72 tii, you can see I sent the vent out the rear trunk floor rather than back through the interior of the car into the engine bay.

Technically the Weber does not need the fuel return at all. You could remove the valve and the return line all together. Most people with a Weber do not use the return at all.