Benjamin A.R.

I'm into it, sending you a PM.

Sent you an email, I'll buy em

Bump

Figured I'd post for anyone who doesn't watch my youtube stuff. Got on a dyno for the first time ever, thanks Hoover, Kevin, and Kenton! Made 185 wheel at only 8psi! So 220 crank? Only 80ish hp to go and I haven't even turned up the boost or put corn in the tank. 

looking to trade my IE drop center bar for a regular straight IE one. Mine is in perfect shape, painted black. I initially thought I'd do a crazy oil pan, but now I want the ground clearance instead.

That table is wonky but it's good enough to not explode so far. More tuning to come for sure. The HX starts to spool right at 3k which is exactly what I wanted. As for targets down low, it's how I had it when it was NA running best. Still have lots to do

16 hours ago, xr4tic said:

Megasquirt?  Why not ditch the EDIS module and just run the crank sensor and coils to the MS directly?

Can't really do that with a V3

21 hours ago, Dudeland said:

Isn't that a bit lean.  I would think you would be looking for 13.5-13.9 afr. 

At idle? 

First drive!!

Sealing Head Studs With O-Rings:

Hmmm that does look a little knock-off-y

2 hours ago, 02Coastie said:

Ben, what mount are you using for your coil pack? Does it plug into the distributor hole? I'd like to move mine off the fender and do something similar.

Yeah it's a combination plug and mount, I can't remember where it came from though.

The thing runs!!

I'll take it man.

1 hour ago, Dudeland said:

Where did you get your s-14 oil filter head?

Got it a couple years ago as part of a trade I think. You can actually buy them new now...but they're stupid expensive

Next time for sure!

Got another thread going, but I think this is a good data point for the community as a whole. Subject is a 200K+ mile stock low comp '75 US M10 which was subjected to 9 pounds of boost for the last 10K. It sustained severe beatings during that time.  

On 3/2/2021 at 8:44 PM, TobyB said:

It really only  matters if you get stuck in traffic a lot.

 

heh

 

t

or want it to self- bleed quicker

Hmmm, I thought it was important for the cold start bypass spring to be effective?

Thanks!

Quick question for the gang, anyone know which is the to cooler/from cooler ports on an S14 oil filter head? I can probably figure it out, but just if anyone knows offhand. Had to change from a sandwich plate. New motor mounts moved things. @evil02 ? @tzei ?

1 minute ago, evil02 said:

I forget the year but, I'm using a M5 flywheel and clutch with a Getrag 265 from en E30 M3. Fits great..

Yeah I've got a 265 from an M3 as well that combo works for sure! 

52 minutes ago, ray_ said:

How did you get blue Loctite out of a red crucible?

 

?

The 242 blue comes in a red tube also haha. 

18 minutes ago, Lorin said:

I don’t remember  it being  even close, I believe you would cut through the bellhousing first. 
But give it a shot, worse case you destroy a $1000+ transmission nowadays, apparently.

I disagree maybe I'll have a concrete answer at some point. If I'm taking measurements and the math doesn't add up then I'm not going to cut it obviously. If I screw up, which I've been known to do, I can put another forward case section on...not a huge deal. 

15 hours ago, 2002iii said:

 

First a couple notes:

You should never leave the engine hanging on the engine hoist for longer than you need to, I've seen too many motors dropped. Its called a engine hoist not an engine stand,

 

Beating on a puller is never going to help, beat on the part not the tool. Beating on the tool will most likely damage the threads.

 

I've burned my self enough times to remember to wear heavy leather gloves whenever using any kind of torch.

 

Now for the fun stuff:

 

Nice car and engine. How was it with 7 psi of boost?

 

What are the former and new engine specs?

 

I'm assuming the 240mm flywheel and clutch you talk about are from an m30, I've always wondered if they would work on an m10. I believe the m30 transmission's use the same input shaft splines and pilot bearings, so it should bolt in.

-Not a problem if it's not left unsupervised, but thanks

-Beating the puller works great. I've done it before and I'll do it some more

-Yeah so have I but sometimes I forget things it was a long work day prior 

-200k+ something mile bone stock original, 7psi with 2psi creep was a hoot maybe 180-200 hp? No clue feels fast though

-New engine is a 2.0 with forged .020 over pistons, 8.5:1, ARP main bearing studs, ARP rod bolts, a windage/crank scraper, MLS headgasket, stainless steel valves (39mm exhausts with faces ceramic coated), IE heavy duty rocker arms, heavy duty valvesprings, threaded and capped rocker shafts, ARP head studs

-The flywheel I have on standby is a rare lightweight 240 from an '83 533i I think they can also be found on some S motors but I forget.