Pamola

Mr. E. Trash

Any chance you might be able to upload the manual again? Mobile me is kaput.

Many thanks,

Pamola

Top End sells Kmac plates.

http://www.racetep.com/kmac.html

Is that woman in the 3rd picture wearing open toe shoes?

Thanks CD this was great.

Check your feeler gauges with a micrometer. Often the gauges are not good out of the box.

Get some turbo maps, figure out how much power you want to make, calculate your pressure ratio and mass flow then plot things up and leave some margin from the surge line (15% is good).

I known of a veteran mechanic who did this with a customers new MB rolling on Fikse wheels. Easily a +5k screw up.

How about?

Dirty Fingernails, Empty Wallet

A Hack Mechanics memoir of life with BMWs

No need to cut and weld. Gas tank sealant kits (such as the one offered by Eastwood) are pour in and slosh around.

I work where those are built in Lafayette Indiana. If that is a V16 it has 69l of displacement. We make them up to 339l of displacement. For the big boys you need a ladder to change the spark plugs (on a gas version).

Nice shots Bill!

email sent thanks Russ!

C.D. Sorry for the Noob question but what book did you get thoes instructions from? That looks like a darn good resource.

Ditto on the airflow over the surface of the exhaust tube.. Other things that would make the reading wonkey 1. Flow of the exhaust gas vs. shape of the manifold ie are you shooting the IR gun at a hot spot on #1? 2. The emissivity of the manifold. Is #1 a different color (header paint or rust) than 2,3 or 4. 3. It's a Harbor Freight unit and they just discovered the infrared spectrum and electrons something like 2 weeks ago.

If the exhaust gas temp was really 200deg different on one cylinder you should be noticing other problems.

Oh and BTW is it 200deg just idling or after romping on it?

Set of good turbine wheels for restoration. Everything is looks straight and I don't see any gouges. The previous owner probably never cleaned the break dust off and it is really stuck on. The wheels will need to be blasted and painted to bring them back. Caps are included but the BMW stickers will need to be replaced. I am in Lafayette Indiana and frequently make trips to Indianapolis so I could drop them off.--- $75

A trick I learned from an old carb rebuild guy was:

1. Buy a Turkey Fryer

2. Mix with Simple Green, Degreaser from Harbor Freight, and water. 1 gallon each.

3. Turn on the heat to get the temp up to about 190 for 20 minutes

4. You have some very good lucking finished carbs.

The only way to make them look better is to bead blast with walnut shells.

I have been useing a large crock pot with degreaser. It works well but I'm lazy and don't want to scrub things like CV joints. If modern technology can do it for me thats a win in my book. Also the wife will not let me put parts in the dishwasher, I checked.

Looking for four RZs in good condition. I don't mind blasting, cleaning, and painting but the wheels need to be straight and not have a major case of the curb rash.. Shipping to Lafayette Indiana.

That looks great. What Ultrasonic cleaner brand/model are you useing?

I've put on a couple dozen of these things, and if you follow the angle

method, you usually end up with a final torque in the region of 60 ft/lbs.

And when you take them off, they're usually around 50. If you take off

one that's been torqued to 54 and never retorqued, it'll be in the region of

40, BUT the bolts will be less even. Some may be as low as 20. Thus, the retorque.

If you're really freaked, sure, change it. But it's a lot of work to replace something that has about a 98% chance of lasting as long as it would have

had you followed the directions that came with the gasket.

IF you retorque it as above.

If you didn't use motor oil on the bolt threads, though, I take it ALL back!

jus' sayin'...

t

Agreed. I've reused (ok ok metal 3 ply) gaskets that have been in an engine that ran for a brief amount of time (on a dyno doing power tests) and never had a problem. As for the motor oil on the bolt threads use a thin complete coating of the best stuff you have otherwise the initial torque setting will be wrong.

It actually seems to me that the torque on thoes bolts is less than that the target final torque target is. The science of head bolts is super intresting stuff as you are tring to get to a certian clamp load but the only way to know what the actual clamp load is, is to measure the bolt streach (or strain) which is not really a thing most people will do. Anyway if it was my money in your boat I would untorque everything (with the proper sequence) and give it another go. I bet you a sandwitch that everything is fine.

sorry my spelling is crap and the checker is not working...sigh

Looks great.. Does Bill Willams and eurotrash get their own how-to sections?

I have installed his relay kit on my 93' Volvo 240. It works great. The parts Dan sends are of the best quality, his advice and knowledge are great. He can be a little flighty but be patient. He is worth it.

Not sure if you want to go the Civic route. The displacement of the 1992 - 2000 Civic was 1.6l the 02' M10 is 2l so the 2002 engine will need more cooling capacity than a Civic. Also the Civic engine is going to be more efficient ejecting less heat to the coolant. If you go the Civic route I think your radiator will be undersized resulting in overheating.

Start of the rear suspension rehab.

I owe Zig a lot. I bought this car 18 years ago. Drove her for about six years through high school and some of college until the combination of the upstate New York winters and me being broke caused me to take her off the road. But taking a step back I went to engineering school because in high school when working on her the mechanics started to make sence. The plan was once I got my first job the 02 was the first thing I would take on. Instead I restored an old house, motorcycle, and started a family. Now it's Zigs turn. This thread is to keep tabs on the progress.

First the working environment, the bad: Small small small! barely enough room to walk around the car The very good: mid rise lift, welding, lots of tools, natural gas fired IR heater (good for curing power), air supplied from a remote compressor in the house and it's a cool 1941 space so it has lots of charter including the colony of insects that live in the rafters and I have been to chicken to deal with.

I owned a 91 and 92 SE-R. Even the plane jane SR20 is a great power plant and will give you a 40% bump in output. They are great motors parts are plentiful and are well supported in the aftermarket. I say go for it but do a nice write up for the rest of us.