Pamola

B-Merry,

I think I can explain this one. First a caveat is that I am a Mechanical engineer with many years working in engine performance applications but not a mechanic or someone with extensive M10 experience. Basically I don't know squat about the specifics of the Schrick or BMW cam or how they interact with a M10 system. The 0.020" or 0.010" or 0.5mm or what ever spec you are looking at in which the opening and closing angles are given is an attempt to account for the closing and opening ramp angles. These angles are not shown in the cartoons posted above but exist in actual cams. The ramps exist to slow down the valve seating velocity and lower the initial forces under opening between the rocker and valve stem. There is no hard and fast standard that applies everywhere and for valve train but believe me is the devil is in the details. You can get a Phd in this stuff. If you are able to get a plot of each cam you want to compare I can take a look. Or if you know of people that already have the cams installed I can walk you though how to measure the cam profile in engine with a dial gauge and degree wheel.

Long story short if you don't have the specifics go with someone that has objective experience (data is best) with both cams and avoid the sales pitches.

q

Bill,

I'm so sorry. He was blessed to have you as a father.

http://obits.dignitymemorial.com/dignity-memorial/obituary.aspx?n=Evan-Williams&lc=2679&pid=173469234&mid=6235413

-Jayme

Don't bother.

The speeds that are seen in the Auto X and the shape of our cars means that a rear spoiler is going to be primarily cosmetic.

Bill,

For what it's worth my 76 is also a 4 bar unit. I'm guessing the mouse house was deleted with the addition of the thermal reactor.

Does it also have A/C?!

markmac,

Great refrence. Thanks for the link.

Folks,

I have reached the point of the restoration where it is time to brace the body before I replace the rockers and other various load structural pieces of metal. The car is currently stripped and sitting on a lift. I have seen several methods for bracing the body before cancer surgery.

Screwjacks => http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/143721-rocker-panel-replacement-in-2-weekends/

Jack stands => http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1972-bmw-2002tii/rocker-panel-replacement/

And various homemade jigs….  It least in my head if I go the homemade jig route I should connect it to the shock mounts to keep the body point loads and bending similar to when the car is sitting on its own tires. Oh and of course put screw jacks at each corner so I can adjust until my hearts content.

So for the people here that have gotten into the load bearing sheet metal work. This is a shoot the engineer moment. What was enough to make sure the cars shape is not changed during the cancer repair?   

Please see Carroll Smith's Nuts, bolts, fastners, and plumbing handbook. The link below will take you to the index. There is a nice picture of a suspension saftey wired on page 123. I'd also highly recommend picking up the book as a refrence.

http://books.google.com/books?id=A81HmmRCN7YC&pg=PA222&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=4#v=onepage&q&f=false

I don't think I could afford the 02 and a family at the same time on a coast. I pretty sure there are laws about the family.

On some power forums people have suggested post blast cleaning, then heating to powder curing temperature, and once again cleaning the parts to help outgas and scrub away any petroleum products in the nooks and crannies of the part.

.

When I opened this thread I was thinking I would feel better about my own level of doofus.

Then I realized I have done all but one of the things listed above.

Before I was 30.

BTW if you have metal in your eye do not get a MRI.

sheesh.

How about a harlequin paint scheme?

 

Every once an a while when I think the Germans are all business someone sneaks something like this by the fun police office and into production.  

But will it rust at the same rate as my 02?

Valve adjustment is easy once you know how to do it. The down side is you can do serious damage if you get it very wrong. If you are not comfortable working with feeler gauges I would see if a local 02 folk can give you a hand.

Also tappets normally go out of adjustment over time so if this was a sudden thing the problem might be elsewhere. BTW if you have a long screwdriver you can use that as a stethoscope just put you ear to the handle and probe with the business end.

I have used the Eastwood kit. It was simple to use and I am very happy with the results for what it's worth.

Any metallurgists or QC folks on the board? I have heard that one of the former big domestic 3 (Ford?) uses and takes contract work for a MRI machine to scan complicated cast parts with internal passages. They output the whole mess to a STL file where it can then be sent off to a model shop.

If anyone has pockets deep enough I can ask around, but it would probably be cheaper to turn a 02 into a gold plated airplane.

Solid work and darn fine photography.

Allbim,

You second comment is correct. Torque plus angle is used because otherwise with torque only the friction of the head bolt threads against the block threads gets mixed into the torque reading (yes even when oil is applied). Since the goal is a uniform clamp load torque + angle is a better approach.

To get around compressing gaskets reducing the torque load (at least one) manufacture recommends doing the torque + angle in 3 passes. So you would turn each head bolt 3 separate times. A more precise name for the procedure might be torque + angle + angle.

2nd TobyB. Make sure your spark and fuel are correct before you start changing out the parts. Otherwise you just end up comparing unoptimized setup a vs unoptimized setup carrot. As MRForce stated at WOT expecilly at high RPMs you the intake manifold gauge pressure should be close to 0. That would be an easy check to see if there is a problem on the intake side before you head into a tune.

What are you up to? The intake restriction for FSAE much smaller than the 32/36 x-section area.

I also have a 1/2 tube of Sil-glyde. I'm just to um.. thrifty to go out and try something else when I still have $1.13 of the last thing left and it seems to work. Actually Sil-glyde is what the shop used when I was a mechanic and was fantastic for stopping squeaks caused by weather-stripping. 

IPD, the good Volvo (and Subi) folks in Portland recommend Aqualube to deal with keeping rubber and poly swaybar bushings functioning properly and quiet. I have never personally used the stuff but have used many of their other offerings and put a lot of stock in what they recommend.

Anyone here tried Aqualube?

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7399/100788-aqualube-sway-bar-grease

I have purchased W&N's rear axle bolt kit. While it is still sitting in the bag (I make icebergs look speedy) I am happy with the quality. If a group buy is put togeather I'm in.

Congratulations! I let my subscription end a few years back but I’ll re-up since you are on the team.

Perhaps I'm just getting old but a well calibrated timing map and an engine in perfect tune seems like the best mod.... ok ok that with balancing and blueprinting during a careful build.