kko110

Hi, I have searched but can't find sorry... For those that have fitted the bigger 46mm valves to their 121 heads (which originally had 44mm valves) did you need to fit bigger seats too? Are the seats in all of the heads the same OD? I don't want to weaken the seat too much. Thanks

Hi, I have been slowly stripping the grilles on my 71 chamonix 02. The black overseers were not in a great shape so we're stripped off the grille and glue removed so onto the next step.... I am not sure I like the lack of contrast between the shiny aluminium and the light colored paint so I was thinking that I might get the original clear anodising stripped then sand and polish the blemishes then get the whole grille black anodised... Has anyone tried this? Thanks

Yes I would love to know any experience with their cams, springs and retainers... I don't want this to become another KM cams rocker thread. Thanks

Hi, I have read lots of comments on the KM cams rockers but can't find anyone who has experience with their cams. They offer a very competitive package for cam, rockers, springs and retainers but want to know of anybody that has used this package on their build? Thanks Karl

Sorry I forgot to say thank you. It is very helpful.

On a side note does anyone know the bore and stroke of the RHD remote servos? I ask this as with the increased bore sizes of the new calipers and rear slaves I'd like to know what volume the servos have.

Thanks for the advice. I agree with the failure risk... I have also thought about running the rear unboosted but don't want to be the guinea pig...

Hi, I have done an extensive search but cant find a definitive answer. I am rebuilding a fairly stock 2002 that has the dual circuit brake system and have upgraded the fronts to wilwood calipers and kept the std rear drums bit with a slightly larger piston bore on the slave. The main goal is to not cut any extra holes so that the twin setup can be reinstated at a later date for origionality. As the wilwood only needs a single feed my first thought was to tee them near the caliper but from reading another post i hear this can cause one side to brake harder than the other as one of the servos feeds just the front calipers and the other feeds the front calipers AND the rear. So when tee'd together it gets some feedback. As it is RHD we only have room for the master cylinder with no integrated booster so this leaves me with the following options: 1. Feed the front piston on the master to one servo and the rear to the other servo. then on the outputs tee these together then run a line to the rear (that has the pressure retaining valve in it) and a line that then splits to the 2 front brakes. This effectively uses both boosters in parallel. I could also restrict the pressure to the rears if needed for bias adjustment. 2. Ditch the standard servos and fit a single VH44 unit and install a single piston master cylinder then run to servo then from servo split to front, rear as before.. I do like however the redundancy when a dual master cylinder is used instead! What other solutions have people come up with? Thanks in advance

Hi, Has anyone here had first hand experience with the quality of the M10 Sherryberg manifolds available on Aliexpress to suit DCOE carbs? I am looking to install twin 45s to mine and accept that there will be port matching and enlarging reqd. I am more interesred in how accurate the mating holes are machined. Thanks karl https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002749080503.html

Has anyone tried to fabricate a single throttle intake for n/a use. I want to go injection but the std intake is quite convoluted and from a flow point of view does not look ideal. I was thinking of something along the lines of the skunk racing manifolds from the Hondas.. They are getting great performance from this manifold and an appropriatly sized throttle body without the hassle of multiple itbs...

Hi, I have been trawling through old discussions on the wiring of the 5 wire type motor but can't quite find anything that answers my questions. I am building my race car and have fitted an E36 steering column (chosen for length and spline) so I want to utilise the wiper control functions on the E36 stalk to operate the wiper motor. On top of this I have a PDM which allows me to control any inputs and drive outputs constantly or intermittently. I am not concerned with having a slow speed just the fast windings. The stalk poisons will be: 1. Hold down for fast wipe momentarily whilst being held in sprung position 2. Intermittent operation (programmed into PDM) 3. Fast wipe 4. Wash windscreen and wipe (as long as held in sprung posn). From what I have read on this I understand that the brown wire is grounded and the black wire is live 12v when ign is turned on. The black/grey wire I will use for the high speed winding. So for the conditions above how can I achieve these? If black is always 12v and brown always ground for a fast wipe do I just connect the black grey wire to 12v? Then when I disconnect the power to this wire does it automatically park itself? Any help would be great thanks

So I got a response from them saying that the minimum order quantity for having them drilled at 4x100 with a 25mm offset would be 250 units....

I have asked them if they will do it and what the minimum batch size would be. Will report back here as soon as I hear back from them...

Dont weigh to much either...

Link to wheels Alfaholics 7x15" GTA Veloce Wheel WWW.ALFAHOLICS.COM

I am not suggesting trying to make them fit... I am suggesting that the drill the 100mm PCD instead

I know it's for an alfa but I think they would look great on a BMW 2002... Alfaholics sell them for a reasonable price.. I know the PCD is different but I have approached them to see if they can supply them undrilled. They are a 15x7 et29 so pretty close Thoughts?

Thanks heaps for the photos. These doors are blimin heavy as far as I am concerned so any way I can reduce the weight is inviting.. The front quarter window and mechanism is pretty hefty as is the door catch and handle so a little bit here and there will add up... Will post results here after...

No door handle... I am going to create a kidney slot hole through window around where old lock post came through to actuate a simple spring pin latch with the rod doing a 90 deg bend and just coming out through the slot... Cant remember where I saw it done before....

Hi, I am in the process of making lightweight doors for my race car by utilising the origional inner frames with holes cut around edges and inner panel cut out and am in the process of making carbon fiber skins to replace the heavy outer skins which I will then bond onto the origional door inner frame. What I need to do now though is work out how to make a frame for a 1 piece lexan window and was wondering if anyone has tried utilising the upper window frame from an E21? Obviously after a bit of cutting and welding? Otherwise wondering how others have achieved support for a 1 piece window. Any help would be great thanks Karl

How much do you want for them and approximate for shipping? Thanks Karl

Hi, I am after some US headlamp assemblies LH and RH without the sealed beam headlamp but including all of the adjusters like shown below. Not after pristine examples but need to be able to post to New Zealand. Thanks Karl

I want to change to aftermarket h4 units so I need the US buckets like shown on the right in the photo below where the adjusters adjust the whole lamp including the lense. Currently the lense on my car is fixed and the adjusters only change the angle of the reflector inside the light..thanks