larry_in_socal

Started working on the Hydraulics this weekend.  Replaced master cylinder grommets, new elbows, new front brake hoses and calipers, brake fluid reservoir, lines from Brake reservoir to MC, and small hose from reservoir to clutch input line and new slave cylinder. Everything is on track, except I should have taken advise from posts here on the forum. I put everything together, no leaks on the brake side, but on the clutch side, I have a leak at the clutch master cylinder. I'm sort of pressed for time and just wanted to get the car enough to have it mobile, but now i will need to replace the clutch master cylinder.. No worries, I'll get to it installed, boy do I love that tight space with all that fluid all over what fun.... 

Installed grommets and elbows. Frog tape to keep everything as clean as possible, leave no chance of particles entering the system

Stainless Hoses and New Calipers.

New Slave Cylinder and stainless Steel Hose.

As they say.. there's your problem lady.... Looks like all that pressure blew out the clutch master cylinder, man.. I should have taken the advise here on the forum, what's crazy... Is I have the new clutch master cylinder in a box, been in that box in my office for over a two-three months, I thought that I could "get by" with the old Clutch Master Cylinder, I checked and the slave cylinder was leaking so I assumed that I could just replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder... not the case.. Live and Learn.

At least the brakes are not leaking for now.. I still need to get the rear hoses replaced ( I have stainless steel ones to match the front ones) and I also have new wheel cylinders, but again, I'm biting the bullet here and hopefully the rear hold out for now, as I need to get this car in a drive-able state, as my time is being stretched thin at the moment.

Little by little....

Perhaps it is a fuel injector situation?  I know that you probably do not want to go down that rabbit hole, but maybe the drive loosened up debris and now you have a clogged injector?  I had an Audi 5000 once that had been sitting for a while, and I couldn't get the damn car to idle smooth, I used a bottle of super concentrate injector cleaner and it smoothed it right up. Being that the Audi 5000 and BMW TII are both designed with mechanical injector system, perhaps injector cleaner is not a bad idea?

 I don't know enough of the TII system and if it even responds well to injector cleaner....perhaps someone could add to this

Perhaps you had a vacuum leak before, and when you replaced all the hoses, you sealed it up, so now the car is starving for air?  is this possible ? Sorry just a quick response, I briefly read through the topic...

That's cool, what you listening to ?  91X ?  Is that what they made garages for ? so that we can wrench when it is raining outside ?

Hope that wrenching is serving you well this weekend.

This topic is nuts!!  LOL

just analyzing the penmanship on the bill of sale vs. the writing on the flywheel.  JS

Also, I think that the plastic mount support prevents the rear hanger from cutting into the rubber hanger as the rubber and metal colliding together is not a good thing, making the hanger basically become a dull knife cutting over time.

Perhaps there is too much slack in the hanger, isn't there supposed to be some sort of plastic hanger support? and does this take some of the slack out of the mount. I would assume that if BMW had both a rubber and plastic support, they worked in conjunction to tighten up the mount, you know German engineering stuff.

that looks to be a R134a AC fitting, looks like it was just used to connect the hose to somewhere on the engine, but where  I don't know.  I don't know much about Tii setups, so I can't help you there. I do have what is the remainder of the fitting off the intake of my car. I measured the threads and they measure around 17.7mm (with a cheapy HB digital caliper) but it is so corroded that it is useless.. perhaps this is what you need

Devilish 02,

When I was replacing all the coolant rubber on my car (75 ' 02) I came to this junction, realized that the small inch or so hose from the valve to the core would/could eventually leak I bit the bullet and replaced it. In the process the plastic holder broke, I was able to JB Weld it like most of us end up doing. Even so, the valve is held pretty tight without having to actually mount it to the plastic holder. There are many articles showing a fix for this, but that would require taking the heater box out of the car, which is a whole other can of worms in itself.

The cable is attached to a piece of metal that screws into the valve, and that piece of metal has a square hole that keys into the valve. I gently removed it from the valve, without disturbing the cable part, this way I would know where to key the valve back, making reference to where the lever is (inside of the car).

I also replaced the o-rings inside of the valve, and had to JB weld the small "nipple" that the plastic water diverter (inside of the valve) that keys itself in the the valve body. There are valve repair kits, however since I'm here in California, I would be leaving the valve closed most of the time, so right now my valve can be used just fine the way it is.

One word of advise, for that valve, I would replace the flat screwdriver screws with Allen or Torx headed screws, especially the one that  connects on the back side, so that if you ever need to repair / maintain the valve, you can use a small Allen type wrench to easily work on the valve.  When I'm working on the car and I see where changing to an Allen would serve me better down the road I'll make the change.

858slider,

It looks like you got your hands full, a plan would be nice. I'm up here in the Inland Empire, I got an engine hoist if you need one unless you decide to put the engine in from the bottom.. I have a daughter out in Murrieta, so going down there for a day of wrenching is definitely a possibility. I have a small Toyota pickup so I could bring the hoist to you if you need to borrow it. I would start with a plan on tackling what you got there.

2 hours ago, James Laray said:

Update.  

 

I cleaned the head bolt holes out to remove any oil.  I also scrapped off bits of the old head gasket on the block.   I remember cleaning the bolt holes 40 years ago using a long screw driver with paper towels.  Seemed easy back then, but more daunting now in that I got paper towel at one point trapped in the bolt holes and had to configure a hook to pull it out.  I will run the bolts down in each hole to verify ease of re-application. 

 

Should I sand the block surface smooth?  Concerned about any cast off going where I don't want it. 

 

I did remove the water drain plug on the block.  There is a solid mass in the hole.  No water coming out.   I "prodded" the mass with a prope and it is pretty soild.  Noted this on other posts regarding attempting to drain the block.      Not sure what to with this.   Should I put the head back on so I can rotate the engine at the crank when attempting to drain IF I can break this mass free?   

 

Good news.  I found a trusted mechanic not too far away, Bruce Shelton (Automotive Enterprises) in Winchester (thanks Marshall for referring me).  No need to ship to Memphis, TN (from VA).  Bruce has decades of experience building M10 race engines.   He races 2002s.   A genuine guy with a couple of cool NK 1800 and 2000 sedans in his storage building.  An old "salt" and great story teller.  He has a trusted machine shop he sends stuff to.  I dropped the head off with the upper timing chain cover with him last weekend.   He's is going to break it all down and have the machine shop pressure test and see if the head is cracked or warped. 

 

I went through the receipt my dad had on the car.  He had the head rebuilt (everything) in 1991 at Eagle Imports in Auburn, AL (not too bad a shop)  at 185,000 miles.  Between he and I we've only put about 12,000 miles on the car.  Hoping valves, rockers, shafts, guides, etc. are good.   I think the car has the original cam.     

 

Just my two cents, when I was rebuilding a toyota tercel engine for my niece, I used a generic head gasket, and it ended up leaking, so I talked to my local import parts store owner, she asked me if I sanded the block. I thought that she was referring to using the black wet/dry sand paper for metal, she said no, get yourself the coarsest brown sand paper for wood. She did say that it is an old mechanics trick to place microscopic hash marks on the block so that the head gasket has something to grip to. I took her word, took a 8"x3.5" drywall flat-hand-sander, with 100 or 150 grit brown-wood- sandpaper, ran it across the head a few times, put on a genuine toyota head gasket, torqued it all down, and that engine worked flawless for several years before the car was sold due to a front end crash. 

All,

thanks for the insight..

I didn't know that WD40 was acidic.

I'll work on cleaning it up and using grease instead.  Man, i appreciate you guys, I'm always learning something new.

My goal is to neatly put all my engine parts in plastic totes, I have plans to rebuild, but for now into the totes...

thanks,

Larry

I'm downsizing and organizing my garage stuff and I'm planning on putting my engine parts in one large plastic tote. If I recall when I last visited my local machine shop, I noticed all of the crankshafts up right and vertical, is this some old wives' tale that storing a crankshaft horizontal could end up "warping"it ? Right now I currently have my crankshaft wrapped in plastic, sprayed  with WD40, and in a box in the vertical position. Thoughts ?

On 1/25/2023 at 2:50 PM, bergie33 said:

 

Just remember, Pirate Ship (www.pirateship.com) is your best friend.  It will save you a ton of money over going into a FedEx Office or UPS Store and paying them.  Shipping a head can be expensive.

Don't forget to declare value on the head....declared value both ways, to and from, make sure that on both to and from journeys that it is packaged extremely well, metal tends to eat itself out of a cardboard box... I can go on and on.. ask me how I know.. let's just say I have been in the industry for over 30 years.

On 1/19/2023 at 5:26 PM, BarneyT said:

Ceylon Tii still at painter, so I’m spending time with a new girlfriend and feel like I’m cheating on my 2002s…

Barney T ...I'm digging that color!!! what color is it ??

9 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Are the front bleeders pointed up, it is possible to switch them side to side.

Quick Story....

sometime in the mid 80's... I had a 62' convertible VW bug.. and I converted it to disk brakes back then, I tried and tried to get the brakes to build pressure, ended up taking it to a local VW shop, the owner "fixed" the brakes, he said that I had the bleed nipples switched, left on right side, right on left side... However.. here is the kicker.. he charged me $180 bucks to tell me I had the calipers switched. Needless to say, lesson learned, I never went back to that guy.

 $180 bucks back then was lots of money... that's $445 in today's prices.

We didn't have the internet back then, so knowledge was king...

Since the grommets that I bought seem to be different then what I currently have, after reading the post below, its now clear to me which direction the grommets need to face.

As for your  reservoir , can't you pop out the plunger/mesh from your old reservoir and place it on top of the new reservoir ?

Hey Pablo,

how did the refresh kit work out for you?

I'm getting ready to work on my master cylinder too, however my whole system ran dry, so I'm leaning on getting a new MC. The grommets and nipples that I bought look different (see attached) but I'm sure that they will work out just fine. My plan is to get the brakes and clutch operational by the end of the month. I plan to work slow and methodical (when time permits) so I can keep everything clean and organized.....

1 hour ago, Rob Zaeos said:

What part of SoCal are you in? I’m in Santa Monica and know one other 02 here near me…. Fairly new to the area so always looking for fellow enthusiasts -Rob

Hey Rob, thanks for asking, I live in North Rialto, about 70 miles East of Santa Monica. Neighboring Freeways are the 210  and 15 freeways. 

15 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Nice. Black is good too. 
we share priorities. I’m currently doing a brake system refresh to get it reliably drivable lol. 

Yep. I have been reading your posts, did you ever get those rear adjusters to move? Did your brake system run dry? and did you need to replace your master brake cylinder?

I'm going to dig into both the clutch and brake system on my car in about a week or so, still gathering all the parts. 

14 hours ago, Rob Zaeos said:

I like the mesh wheels your replacing… what are they and what are you gonna do with them?

They are 13x6 EXIM wheels, I'm not quite sure what the plan is with them at the moment.

Well, I officially now have a roller!!!

I ordered a set of lug nuts from  Aardvarc Racing, and had to sort out my tire situation, unfortunately two of the tires that came with the set of wheels were the wrong size and after sourcing two good used tires, I now have a rolling car with Bottle-Caps on 195-65-14 ....

Next I plan to work on both Clutch and Brake Hydraulics so I can officially have a "drive-able" car.. almost there...

FYI... I called this morning, the phones must have been busy, finally was able to get a hold of someone, placed a few items on Will Call and was able to make it out and picked up my parts around 1pm today. All is good for now.

I'm also getting ready to do some work on my brakes, I almost have everything I need.. Let's wait to see what Santa Brings...

I purchased some items when I.E. had their open house in summer.

I purchased some brake fluid hose from the reservoir to the MC.

FYI... the hose has the following printed on it: "Conti - Brake - L3L-2.1 - 7,5 x 3 > EPDM/EPDM< 25/21/21".

Here is what the label on the hose that I purchased in-case anyone needs the info.

Once I have everything I'll start putting it all together... In about a month, when time permits.