larry_in_socal

Hello Pablo,

FWIW... I have a 2008 Audi TT, and the battery is located in the trunk. There are two charge points located at the  driver's side shock tower as shown in the pictures below. For your reference the part number of the cable is 8J0071227A, 8J0971227D and the cable runs back to the rear where it hooks up to the battery and also has a lead that I'm sure runs to the alternator for charging.  I hope this information is helpful. The negative connection is just a metal stud that looks to be screwed into the body of the car.  The cable is black in color, however the plastic connector is red to note that it is the positive post, and it looks like the cable holder thingy could be easily adapted to our cars, the only issue would be the length of the cable. The TT battery is located at the tail end of the trunk of the car which would make the cable sort of longer, and if the 2002 battery is right between the rear shock towers, this might be a solution, and there are some of these cables on eBay, etc. the only concern would be the length, of course longer being better then short... no jokes here... LOL

Pablo,

thanks for the reply, yep I think we are on the same page, needing some cheap 14" wheels for decent tire choices. You mention using the correct lugs, were they the 36131113132 lugs?  What happened with the shorty lugs that make you say they were a bad idea ? Did you get Febi or Bmw lugs or generic, I'm leading towards getting the Febi as they are about $3 bucks each right now, but seeing $20 buck sets on eBay is enticing, but I would rather stick to brand names I know.

Thanks,

Larry F.

After taking some time and reviewing the information provided, I'm pretty sure that the lug nuts I have are for steel wheels. I checked a few websites, rogers, pelican, ECS, all refer to lug nut 36131113132 for alloy wheels, while lug nut 36131113131 for steel wheels. I'm pretty sure that I have the ---131 lug nuts, which will not work on the alloy wheels. they may work to get the car moving, but I'm going to source some ---132 nuts just to be on the safe side.

knowing the history of my car, I'm sure that the previous owner (high school friends of mine) I'm sure back "in the day" they slapped on the 13 inch alloys, without even thinking about changing the nuts to the correct nuts, you know deez nuts.. just had to say it... sure many of you were thinking of that.. LOL

I'll need to check the wheel contact areas, They should be ok. my main concern was the correct lug nut, I think I'm good to go with the lug-nuts I have.

I think I got a good deal, all 4 wheels and tires for $200, I think that is a good deal. They were local to me so I only had to drive about 45 mins out one way, no biggie, beats having to pay for shipping. 

In time I'll work on painting them, but for now I just want to be able to have wheels and tires enough to roll the car.

Hydraulics are next, I was debating on rebuilding my calipers, and master cylinder, and I might still do that, but I'm leaning towards getting new or rebuilds and just bolting them on.. the holidays are putting a wrench in my wrenching (no pun intended).. LOL

If you ask me what I been doing. well lot's except working on the car, but trying to get my focus back on the car, too many things pulling me away, you now the wifey, to do lists, etc...

Still working on getting the 75 2002 (non-turbo) back on the road. 

Over the weekend I found some cheapy E30 wheels with tires in my quest to get this car back on the road. 

Don't knock them (yea. I hate them being painted) , I'm just trying to get the car to where I can move it around...even if it is just in my driveway.

Moving to a 14" wheel will allow me a better selection of tires.

Question: is the wheel lug shown going to work with the E30 wheels ?  The previous wheels were alloys so I think these lug nuts will work too, just checking to see what you guys think.

I calculated these being 60deg lugs, 1.35" in length, .81" hex. thoughts ?

Here's one.... On my '93 Toyota Pickup, the truck overheated on my way home, so I had my wife stop by the local parts store, get a thermostat and tools, enough to get the truck home.

Well long story short i thought that I had warped the head, so I took it off and had it checked, no warpage, so while the head was off I had a valve job done, this was around 120K... put everything back together, ran OK, passed a few smog checks here in California, but on the last smog test it kept on failing, so the truck sat for several years, (you don't realize how much you need a truck), any way come to find out after much research that the thermostat I put in the truck was the wrong temperature. Sure enough, I ordered the right one from the dealer, and all my emissions (cat, egr) came back to life. I could smell the difference, like night and day. I didn't realize that the thermostat that my wife purchased to bail me out, ended up being a colder temperature thermostat, hence it opened up earlier, and kept the truck cold. The correct thermostat, which opened at a higher temperature, had the engine running hotter, hotter engine, hotter catalytic converter, that and a new egr, and the truck passed with flying colors.. What a difference a hotter opening thermostat did for my truck... sometimes can't assume that what the parts guy is giving you is the correct one.. Needless to say still have the truck, over 210K now, and still running strong.

Everyone,

thanks for the responses, yes.. I'm glad to add to the number of threads, I see now is up to 87 hits and growing... LOL..

Its done.. Santa and his helpers were notified....

Getting ready for the holidays, everyone is asking me what I want for Xmas.. thinking about one of these innova timing lights, with the digital read out, and can be hinged in the middle, to help fine tune the '02.. anyone have experience with one of these lights ? I have a cheapy one from HF, and its at hit or miss...

thanks,

Larry_in_socal

when I was  a kid out of high school, I had a 62 convertible bug (sold it years ago.. another story). I upgraded it to disk brakes and went to bleed them, couldn't build up pressure.. so I ended up taking it to one of the local v-dub specialty shops to fix it.. this was back in the late '80s, early 90's... WAY before the internet.... the mechanic fixed it alright, after $180 bucks.. that was lots of money back then, the main issue was because I had the right caliper on the left side and vise versa, so the bleeder screws were at the bottom. That is $408 in today's prices.. just to swap calipers... I would say that I was suckered back them.. and I told myself...never again I said!!!! So for me I learn all that I can and do the work myself.

Yep.. I recently took my daughter's 2019 VW jetta to the dealer since the AC wasn't blowing cold on the passenger side, when the service advisor stopped texting on her phone, she wrote up the car and handed me the "preliminary" paperwork with a $190 service charge, mind you the car is still under warranty.. when I asked the advisor what is the $190 charge if the car is still under warranty, she said that if we (the dealership) find any "outside influence" we will need to charge you that charge, I then asked what is "outside influence" , she said that means that if there is any tampering, or critters eating at the wiring; the dealership will charge the $190 fee... no worries, the car is back, fixed and no charge.. its almost at the point that we need to video the before, in-case some savvy technician purposely causes the tampering just to meet their quotas... but at that point we operating in paranoid mode... LOL

Just my 2 cents here... predetermining the shipping costs for a "pick and pack" auto parts order is a classic chicken before the egg scenario. Most modern API based shipping platforms (the platforms that display the shipping costs to you and I) they need at minimum 3 bits of information, address, actual weight, box dimensions. With these basic parameters, a call is placed out to the API servers and a package cost is obtained.  Its not rocket science here, if it was just one box with the same weight and dimensions its a no-brainer, the shipping costs can be somewhat static.

Its when orders fluctuate in size, as in the case of a 10-12 piece shipment, most on-line sellers fail to take into consideration that many items can consolidate into one package. Its this one package that then needs to go out to the API to receive one cost for that one package. If the sellers are sending 12 packages out to the servers and adding up the costs individually, but sending one package to your doorstep, well they are definitely not doing the right thing here. Should they fix it? of course they should, but that would take time and money... another story for another time.

Some sellers get lazy and they have no regard to what they are displaying to their customers. Many of these customers receive negotiated rates from their carriers, but fail to pass this savings to their clients, and end up making money on the backs of their customers, while other sellers are more concerned with "making it right" and passing the savings to their customers. 

After reading the comments above, knowing that some of these sellers are "giving credits" for the shipping is a good thing, and I think that most of these sellers just do not have the time to constantly update weights dimensions of their products so they end up charging some sort of average cost to cover the shipping, its a decent strategy, but can back fire if you and I can find the product somewhere else for less.. and that is the inherit issue begins ...with our cars, there are not too many vendors selling the parts that we need, so technically speaking they have us by the "kanards" so to speak.. but it is nice to know that some of the sellers in our circle do the right thing and offer discounts after the fact...

When I started to work on my car, last year, I told myself that I would purchase from all the euro sellers, ecs, pelican, 2002ad, rogers, bmw of northwest, blunt.. the list goes on and on. and I conscientiously did this to test the customer experience from each one. Some were super quick, some dragged over time, with some advertising that they had the item in stock, when they in fact didn't. At the end of the day, and unfortunately we will need to purchase from each one of these sellers due to availability and costs.

At the end of the day, I was finding myself attempting to find the cheapest, but overall the prices ended up being the same across the board, except when we add the shipping back in, the sellers that had a tighter control of displaying their shipping costs, ended up with the majority of my business.

I hope this information was helpful...

I'm working on my '75 2002, found out that my oil pressure sending unit is not working, and that is the reason for the oil light not coming on when the key is first cranked.

However the oil pressure sender on the car and the new one that I purchased (Rock Auto) do not have crush washers,

I was wondering if one of the crush washers out of a Victor Reinz gasket set (see below) can be used at the oil pressure sender ? Or am I asking for trouble?

The paper gasket is for the Oil filter housing, what about the other items in the bag ?

I'm in the same boat, so to speak. I'm getting ready to work on the hydraulics (clutch and brakes) on my '75 2002. My car has been parked for over 25 years and my brake reservoir is totally empty, so your post is guiding me to the "while I'm there, I should replace" especially when it comes to the brake system. I'm putting together a plan to go over the entire brake system, hoses, calipers, pistons. etc.

Where does the fluid go? does it just evaporate? I would assume that overtime the hoses crack and that is where the fluid ends up going.

comments...

I picked one up at the Bay Area 02 back in May. My wife and I flew out from Southern Cal and spent a few days out there, weather was great, we had a blast. We stayed at the Double Tree Inn at the entrance to the Marina, needless to say I was woken up on that Saturday morning to the exhaust tones of the cars attending the show...super cool, bird's eye view of the cars entering the show. 

What was cool is that if you purchased the Yeti at the show, it came with home made brew.. can't beat that. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it was Steve that was pouring the beer... I take this Yeti with me everywhere, its my daily ice-water go to cup...

Working on ....

making sure all bulbs in the instrument panel are operating. I had a bad bulb for my oil light. When I took off the instrument cluster, realized that I only had one nut... LOL.. so I purchased a new knurled nut from Pelican. I also wanted to replace the rubber washers that go before the nuts, so I headed to Lowe's and picked up some 1/2L flat washers. The I.D. on the washers were slightly too small, so I busted out the exacto-knife and gingerly opened the hole. Oh and when checking the bulbs (with a 9 volt battery) I ended up spraying some DeoxIT on all the connections.

Here are my results:

Knurled nut and rubber washer

Pack of 194 bulbs from my local electronics parts house -- $5 bucks for 10.

Rubber Washers - left is original, right is new rubber washer that was trimmed with exacto-knife.

Two nuts, two washers... ready for install.

Back in she goes... on to another task.. brakes and clutch are next....

All,

thanks for the responses.. and the insight regarding length, etc. I'll hit up my local auto parts store and see what I can come up with. Now I know... the plastic 90 degree connector at the Weber is smaller then the valve cover outlet.. so I'll need to do some figuring out perhaps some sort of reducer, maybe a visit to pick- a part might serve me well.

For now just getting all the hoses to connect to something is a place to start.

Yea, adding a catch can will be something that I do down the line. but for now, I have a running engine, and I'm sort of stoked!!!.. still need to fine tune the distributor, dynamic time the engine and rebuild a different 32/36 that I know does not have warn shafts... waiting for some jets and carb rebuild kit to work on the car over the long weekend...

So now that the engine is running, my next task will be to get the clutch and brakes working, then new tires.. and hopefully in a few months (time and money...) I'm planning on having this car in a drive-able state. which is something that it hasn't done since 1990..

Small baby steps...

Quick Question..

I'm sure that the answer to this question is more than likely in the forums, just being a little lazy and asking a quick question here....

I need a breather hose from the valve cover to the small white 90 degree fitting on a standard "square Weber 32/36 air filter" ..

does anyone know the size, name of hose maker, etc. of such hose ?

I checked but many of the answers lead to an OEM short piece from the valve cover to a stock air filter, I need a longer piece from the valve cover to the small white fitting on my 32/36...

A reply would be greatly appreciated.

Larry_in_socal

Hello all...

Back to wrenching on the 75, 2002, manual trans...

I had the car running several months ago, but had a major oil leak at the upper timing cover. needless to say I need to reseal that area really good.  While in the process of adding new gaskets and sealer I discovered that two of the threads were stripped, number "4" on the head and the horizontal one on the timing cover itself. I read on several of the postings that this is not uncommon as folks tend to over tighten the bolts, with disregard for torque settings, or attempting to "zip" on the bolts with an impact type drill.

So It leaves me no choice but to bust out the helicoil kit.

I was thinking how do I get a drill bit at a 90deg. straight angle, however I had the perfect tool. For whatever reason my wife bought me a few of these flexible drill attachments, I think she might have been surfing on Amazon late at night or something, but these flexible attachments have really come in handy. The attachments came in a two pack, so I have one to spare in the tool box.. lol. They really came in handy because I didn't have to remove the radiator, and allowed to continue the job.

Keeping the Drill as "90degree" as possible. Frog tape to keep the shavings away, and frog tape to mark the depth of the hole.

Better angle of the flexible drill attachment... of course a brand spanking drill bit too...

Time to cut the thread, again frog tape to mark the depth.

I took my time, made sure that the helicoil tap was at 90degree, and continued to cut the thread till it reached the proper depth.

Lastly there goes the helicoil going in.

Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the helicoil on the upper timing cover, but pretty much the same deal.

Oh and once all of this was done, I sealed up the upper timing cover, this time I took my time and used the proper torque sequence and this time I didn't over torque them. I torqued them down to 7 foot lbs. or roughly 12 nm. All bolts including the valve cover bolt to upper timing cover felt strong and tight. Before the bolts going into the stripped holes had nothing to hold on to and needless to say they were not tight.

That was two weeks ago, and the area has been setting up, so to speak.

This weekend I plan to do some more work on the car, as I'm replacing the heater hoses next.

so once I get all of this work done, I will be back to where I was about two months ago, with a running engine that needs the carburetor and timing to be fine tuned.

Hope this information was helpful.

Larry_in_socal

Tom,

Thanks  thanks for reminding me. Of the two carbs that i have, one is a manual choke while the other is an electric choke. The electric choke one I do believe has a larger diameter for the idle jet. thanks for reminding me.. I just checked and yes there is a difference:

I'll be sure to order the correct one(s)... I'm sure that many folks ordering jets have made this mistake before.

What do they say, the devil is in the details...

Sincerely,

LarryF_In_SoCal

Tom,

thanks for the info, with the two carbs here is what I have in terms of jets

              carb 1 - manual  , carb 2 - electric

P. main jet -     140                   140

P. IDLE jet          50                     55

P. Air Cor.        165                   170

P. Emul.             F50                  F50

______________________________________________

S. main jet        135                  140

S. IDLE jet         55                    50

S. Air Cor.         160                  160

S. Emul              F6                    F50

_______________________________________________

Acel pump      50                      50

_____________________________________________________

Float Level 40mm (for brass floats)   check.

PRIMARY

idle 60                                                   do not have

main 140                                               I have one.

air correction 145                                do not have

SECONDARY

idle 55                                                  I have one.

main 170                                               I have one.

air correction 175                               I do not have.

So I would need the following:   60 idle, 145 and 175  air corrections. I have the F50 tubes and a 165. So I'll just order some of these jets along with the rebuild kits that I order. So while the parts are on order, I'll need to direct my attention to the upper timing cover as that damn thing is leaking and the fan is whipping it up.  Its getting there.. little by little..

thanks for the info.

LarryF_in_Socal

Yep.. I finished rebuilding this DGVA-5A .. Manual Choke. but didn't replace the throttle bearings, hind sight is 2020... I have another weber carb that I can use, but it needs to be rebuilt. I'll pickup the throttle bearings and rebuilt kit and work on getting one of these carbs to fly...

As for my jet sizes here is what the current DGVA-5A Manual Choke has:

Primary Circuit

Main Jet = 140

IDLE Jet = 50

Air correction tube = 165

Emulsion tube = F50

Secondary Circuit

Main Jet = 135

IDLE Jet = 55

Air correction tube = 160

Emulsion tube = F6

Accelerator pump jet = 50

These are the jets that came with the used engine that I bought

LarryF_in_socal

75 BMW 2002, Manual Transmission....

I had some free time today to do some wrenching, attempted to time to the BB and smooth out the idle, however I don't think that this weber 32/36 is any good.

Check out this video, I barely move the primary shaft from side to side ... no jokes here... lol.. and a gas is being sprayed. I'm not turning the linkage , I'm moving it from side to side.. I guess you live and learn...

What do you guys think?

LarryF_in_SoCal

you typed 6 horizontal bolts....and 2 vertical bolts....and yes I do understand the difference between horizontal and vertical... and the 6 bolts on the upper timing cover look vertical to me and the 2 bottom bolts sure look horizontal to me... no worries.. I understand what you were trying to say....  and by the way Tom Cruise is too short to be a fighter pilot.. lol.

On 5/14/2022 at 9:19 PM, Son of Marty said:

So.......as you probably figure a few things going on here, first it sounds like the oil pressure light in your dash cluster is burned out, it should light up when the ignition switch is on with out cranking the engine, easy fix. The leak at the upper timing cover is common and as you say most likely can be fixed with a new gasket and some sealer, when you replace it try tightening the 6 horizontal bolts hand tight just using just a socket extension for a handle to snug them then tighten the 2 vertical bolts down and then tighten the other 6 bolts and it should seal. 

Marty,

thanks for the reply... I'll work on the oil pressure light, that's an easy fix... as for the tightening did you happen to swap the horizontal and vertical wording when you replied, shouldn't it be... the 6 vertical bolts hand tight just using a socket extension for a handle to snug them up then tighten the 2  horizontal bolts down then tighten the other 6 bolts down....

Just want to make sure I read that right.. no worries.

thanks,

LarryF_in_SoCal