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toucanbrian

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Everything posted by toucanbrian

  1. Sold, to the gentleman in the back from Laredo. Thank you for reading.
  2. For immediate sale is one 1976 BMW 2002. Please excuse the length of this sale notice. I enjoy to be very thorough when selling. Overview: 1976 2002, black, 4 speed. Runs well. Somewhat ugly. Ingraham radiator, new carb, many others. Passenger side door dented from being backed into. I do not know the mileage, odometer has never worked under my ownership. Clear title. VIN 2741650. Let me know if you carfax this because I never have, and am curious. Reason for selling: I no longer live in the USA, it is pointless for me to keep a car registered and insured there, and it is a burden having a friend keep it in his driveway. Asking price : 2000 OBO, quite motivated Details: I purchased this car in October 2008 from a fat girl in San Antonio. I have done much work to this car and replaced or rebuilt many things on it, only in interest of having it very well-running and trustworthy. I have done all work myself and under my ownership the car has never been in a shop save for replacing tires and adjusting alignment. I myself have had no interest in full restoration or or in presentation. To the eye, the car has always looked somewhat rough. The paint is oxidized and sun-baked. The interior is clean enough, but somewhat worn. My interest has always been in function, as this has been my only car, and as I have required it several times to haul me across the country. I am not so nice looking myself, but function quite well. I have been left on the roadside needing a tow twice during my ownership of this car. I will explain below. Work I have done on the car is as follows: Nonworking A/C system completely removed and garbaged. Front end complete rebuild (all urethane bushings, bearings, ball joints, etc. Steering box not replaced). New shocks, front and rear. New engine and transmission mounts. New guibo, new center bearing. Upgraded 80A alternator, internally regulated. Electronic ignition conversion. Curtis Ingraham 3-core radiator. New water pump. New fan. New Weber 32/36 carburetor, manual choke, jetted to CD's prescription. New plug wires. New tires (spring 2009). New brake hoses, pads. I believe I ought have all receipts. If I do not have ALL, I certainly have almost all. I have no receipts from anything previous to my ownership. I have not touched the clutch, transmission, or differential, other than to change fluids to redline synthetic. No differential whine, clutch still feels good, and 4-speed transmission has never given me reason to complain. Shifter somewhat sloppy, but I have seen much worse. Known issues with this car, presently: Passenger door / A-pillar dent. This does not affect handling or steering but affects proper closing of window and is unsightly. I do not know if this can be properly pulled out. Guibo needs be replaced again (new part goes with sale). Windshield cracked on passenger side in colorado hailstorm. Brake pads need renewing. Belt squeal above 4k rpm I cannot seem to be rid of, this began only after installation of 3rd alternator. Windows need arm-help when cranking up and down. Heater blower inoperable but heater itself works well (the gas pedal is your blower). Seats somewhat ugly. Swapped ripped driver's seat to passenger side, good passenger seat to driver side. I have never had a passenger, why let the seat go to waste? Rear seat perfect, like new. All window glass good, no cracks, save windshield. The car has very little rust, and no rust in important areas. Worst rust is at bottom of driver's door, for instance. No rust on shock towers. Floor pans good. Paint is rough, perhaps surface rust on trunk lid, hood. Tires are still quite good. No fluid leaks from engine. Burns a negligible amount of oil, less than 1/2 qt between changes. Doors are straight, no creases from broken checks. Under my ownership this car has carried me, with zero or minimum issue, on the following hauls / loops: Texas to south Florida to Tennessee to Texas. Texas to Tennessee to Kansas to Texas. Texas to New York to Texas. Texas to Tennessee to Colorado to Texas. Among these, many other shorter but still significant hauls. The vast majority - 95% - of the mileage added to this car under my ownership has been highway driving and open road. I have been left broken on the roadside twice needing a tow (flatbed towed both times). Once outside of Eureka, KS, previous to electronic ignition I had a set of points wither and die. Foolishly, I had no replacement in my kit. One night in hotel, five dollars at Napa, and ten minutes to install fixed this. The second time, outside of Abilene TX, after bearings seized in ebay alternator. This one was trickier, I had to buy the only alternator in town that would fit the car, simply to keep the belt tight to drive the oil pump and water pump. I could not get an 80A internally regulated alternator for this car on such short notice in Abilene and so drove back to Austin on the battery only. In all honesty I had heard the bearings in that alternator giving the warning call for nearly a year, had ignored this, and thus deserved to be left at the side of a caprock dust field in west Texas for my negligence. One reaps what fruit one sows. This is a worthy car, but I no longer need a car as I have been the past years living between Brasil, Argentina, Mexico, and Germany. If I were wealthy and could buy proper storage for this car, I would likely keep it simply to have something to drive when I must visit the US. However, I am not so wealthy and must rely upon the kindness of a friend who allows me to leave it parked in his drive while I am away. He is a German and I believe it reminds him fondly of his homeland, but he is also a doctor and lives in a fine swank neighborhood in a big nice house, and my car is an embarrassment against the neighborhood. This is my estimation, my words, not his. The passenger side was dented in by his wife, who was late getting the kids to school and, as a perfect woman driver, was not watching where she was going and backed her Volvo SUV into the side of my car while I was away last year. The force was enough to break the window glass, which has been replaced, but the door closes "funny" now, and the wrong alignment makes the window odd to roll all the way up. The car is currently registered, insured, and the inspection just expired on 1 October, in Austin Texas. This has been my everyday driver and my only car since I have owned it, it is not a recreational or weekend vehicle only. Were I still residing in the USA, or had I any intention of returning to live at any time, I would keep the car. If I ever own another car, in the USA or elsewhere, I will attempt to own another 2002, I will attempt to find this one and buy it back. As the car has been sitting most of the time for the past year or more, it would do well with a bit of minor tuning-up I am certain. I return to Austin each three months or so, for a day or two, and drive the car around, but I have neglected its better wellbeing for lacking time and incentive to care for it. Even after sitting, it always gets going within five minutes of having to tinker a bit with it. I am speaking after months of sitting. The car once sat six complete months while I was away in Brasil. The day I returned was February 23, the temperature was 30 degrees and I had to drive the car from south Louisiana back to central Texas. Within ten minutes I had the car running, without needing even a jump, and drove back to Austin six hours through snow, without so much as a hiccough from the car. Even on my infrequent passthroughs and after sitting for several months, it gives me no trouble the few days I do drive it. I have just come from Berlin, the car having sat four months through the hottest Texas summer on record, and the car was up and running within two minutes. This is a worthy, driving car. I would love to sell it knowing it will be kept on the road. I would prefer this car to go to someone who knows 2002s, and who will do right by the car. I rescued the car from someone who had put rock band stickers all over the windows and floormats with naked lady cutouts in the thing and a ridiculous radio with wires strewn all over and speakers kicked under the seat and horrible air-bubbled black tint job. I do not wish that sort of high-schooler fate for this car. It deserves better. I am not in any position to attempt to profit by the sale of this car. Though I have put more into it in parts than I myself paid for the whole car, I have been buying cars for too long to fool myself that the money that I put into it matters at all regarding the final sale. I will ask 2000 dollars for this car, or best offer. I am very motivated to sell and to sell quickly. I think this figure is fair enough, as ought anyone who knows these cars and knows things like the Ingraham radiator or a brand-new carburetor are not inexpensive items. I believe I bought the very last Crane electronic ignition kit in existence only days after the company went under. Therefore, this car is of historical interest as well. I have included everything in this document as I can think of. I am better at fielding specific questions, if I know the answers. I am not, however, a professional mechanic and I know nothing about detailed specifics such as which cam is in this car or the compression readings other than to say that as far as I know the car is mostly "stock" save for my own additions listed above. As I write this I am in Austin until the 18th October. I would very much like to sell this car before or by then. I do not know when I will be back, and to have this much time to wait before leaving is almost unheard of for me. Therefore, the time is now. Unfortunately I am unable to arrange for any type of shipping to be undertaken in the sale of this car. I am willing to help though, however I might. A quick sale will benefit everyone. Title is clear. This is not a "rolling shell." I suppose it COULD be a parts car, but hopefully not. This is a working, well-running, workhorse. Ugly but very functional, like a good wife. Please forgive the attached photos. They are the best that I have on hand and I wish to get this posted immediately. I can take other photos, of anything, upon request. To any who wish to see the car I am available to meet any time, any where in the Austin area.
  3. I don't know if this is in the right place but I guess it's not technically off topic. A video from Jay Leno's garage website about the hydrogen powered 7 series. He spends the first half minute or so telling how great the 2002 was/is when he used to work for Mercedes in Boston. I keep waiting for him to profile a BMW on that site but it hasn't happened yet. Aside from this 7 series commercial, I mean. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=190254
  4. Bingo. Thanks everyone. I have slapped myself in face as promised. Completely loosen center bearing, and disconnecting exhaust at downpipe is yes necessary. I know now. Hell. Got new guibo in now and it is time for test drive to marvel at how misaligned everything is and how bad the exhaust rattles because I forgot to rotate it up off the subframe before tightening. Thanks again to all.
  5. I know this guibo topic has been covered four million times, and I have searched my ass off for an answer already. But it's a simple question with hopefully a two word answer that my dumb ass is missing somehow. Guibo is shot and I'm trying to replace it just "for now." By which I mean replace only the guibo and not the center bearing yet, by which I mean I don't want to drop the exhaust and pull the whole driveshaft. I really really really don't want to do that here, now, at my apartment. I'll do that later, I have the parts, and I'll do that later when I go back to work in mid April where I have access to the devil's own selection of tools, workspace, air, and heat to use. I don't want to do it here. I've got the old guibo out, it came out in chunks, here I'll attach a photo. Now I can't get the driveshaft to back away from the transmission enough to slide the new guibo in. I've got the center bearing loosened real good. I don't have the exhaust downpipe dropped. The driveshaft is not hitting the downpipe, yet, I can't get it to even budge backward from the transmission. That little recess cup in the end of the shaft. Both shaft and trans are loose, turning independently so I know it's not rust or anything. Yes I did mark the old alignment so it will go back together the same as it was. Is there a trick I am missing here to move the shaft backward enough? I so so so badly don't want to have to take out the whole driveshaft here at the house. Any help is appreciated. Hopefully it is some simple two word answer and I can slap myself in the mouth and say thanks and be done with it. But for now, I'll say thanks anyway, and hope for some advice. Thanks.
  6. Not mine, but one of my favorites, and just updated finally yesterday. http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/index.html
  7. I just switched to CD's recipe last week and didn't notice really any power difference. I swapped from a beaten 32/36 DGAV to a brand new 32/36 manual choke. I haven't torn into the old carb to rebuild it yet so I don't know how it is jetted yet. Power seems the same but the idle is now a thing of absolute beauty compared to previous. Also maybe better mileage but cannot be sure yet. Should be better anyway, as old carb had a pretty bad leaking diaphragm.
  8. Saw green roundlight turning left off Congress at Oltorf two days ago, but they didn't honk or wave. Bferman, did you happen to pull even with a black 76 on Ben White westbound about 2 weeks ago (+/-) and honk, then exit at Manchaca by Sayther's? Either way I'm in your neighborhood a few blocks down the hill at Academy and Congress. Surprised I haven't seen your Sahara around. The only other 02 I know of in Travis Heights is a teal colored 74 tii back on Eastside drive near Monroe, parks at Stacy park there.
  9. Probably don't want to ship it, but if you do, I'd use the hell out of the exhaust manifold. If you change your mind about shipping things, it would be coming to 78704. Let me know what you think. Thanks a million. toucanbrian at gmail. com
  10. I have just put on the brand new manual choke 32/36 and love it. I pulled off the beaten old electric choke 32/36 and will clean it up and rebuild it. May jet it for high altitude as I am thinking of taking a drive up through Montana, Wyoming, wherever, in a few months perhaps. That way it's just four nuts and the linkage and swap the carb, rather than breaking open the DGV and fooling with jets. Thanks for the offer though. The whole thing is idling like some sort of miracle now, after ignition swap, carb swap, and today's valve adjust.
  11. Bill, I did not get to put it through all paces this afternoon as I finished up right at 4 or 5 and was not going to hassle with traffic, so only took it around the block to warm it enough to dial in timing good. I know so far at least it idles about 94 % better and smoother and more confidently, which could be either the new carb or ignition and likely both. I'll get around to really testing it all out tomorrow. The remainder of my afternoon was spent hassling with the cheap, made in china six dollar choke cable, and still failed at making it work well. I too now have a rather full box of Crane parts, about 15 4,6,8 cylinder optical shutter wheels I will never use, and also the old Allison box that came with the car and may still work even, never tested it. I have high hopes for the Crane unit, but mostly I swapped for the longevity. Tomorrow will adjust valves and then full tune of engine should be complete. Huzzah.
  12. Let me go ahead and close this off in case anyone else has similar trouble on this. Got the #220 shutter which slid right onto the dist shaft like it was made to do it. Imagine that . Think I found/bought the last new shutter kit available maybe, since Crane shutdown. Shutter was big problem. Correct shutter is important. Next, pulled distributor to install this with plenty room this time. This helped a lot also. For the arcing I had been mentioning, I do not imagine anyone else would have this trouble but I discovered eventually that the problem was, and I cannot figure out why, but there was simply a F--king ground wire plugged in to the positive side of the coil. This was not new, this was not me, and it had been like that for as long as I have owned this car, around 6 months now. I do not know how it has been running so well up to now. But that was the problem. It was grounded onto a plug post on the bottom of the intake manifold. Some leftover crap from the smog shit. I could not believe it and so I fiddled around with that wire, and a multimeter, for around twenty minutes because I could not believe that someone would put a ground wire straight to the coil positive post. I unhooked it all, the arcing stopped, I aligned the shutter properly and the optical sensor, and the car fired right off. The Crane PS20 coil that I have put in there got pretty hot so I tried installing the ballast resistor again and without the constant grounding, it installed just fine and there was no more gray plumes of smoke from it and no more smell, and after it the coil only gets a dull warm like it is supposed to. Timed with a light and everything is peachy now. Also took opportunity to rectify the backwards installation/wiring of the distributor, someone had installed it so that number four was lined up with the notch in the housing. Now everything is golden. Idles smooth, beautiful. Also I will take this opportunity to +1 the hear hears on CD's jetting recipe. Brand new carb on yesterday, CD jetted, float setted, enrichment hole plugged, and it is all running so beautiful now. Just closing out the thread for possible future searches. Though with Crane closed up shop now I don't know that anyone will have install problems with a NLA part in the future.
  13. Update, the new PS20 coil works fine with points. Fired right over. So it wasn't the coil malfunctioning doing that arcing. Additionally I may have located the last shutter kit with the 220 wheel in the land. Some warehouse jockey in Ohio checking it right now to make SURE the 220 shutter is in there.
  14. Thanks Bill. Additionally I just came off the telephone with the guys at Summit. Calling them about the proper shutter wheel. I asked them about the 220 wheel, certain that is the one that I need. Well it does not much matter because they are already out of all of the XR700 kits and everything. I thought they would have some kind of stock for a while after the Crane shutdown but I guess not. The best the guy could tell me was look around for anyone else who might have the shutter kit with the 220, anyone who still has stock. Summit's out already. I guess I'll check around for it and if I can't find it I'll just send this whole bugger back. Unless maybe it would be a good investment to keep for a few years, brand new in box Crane XR700 kit, NLA, $1000. I'll post back here in a while after I swap out the old coil with the new and see if it even works. I guess I'll post for someone's unused 220 shutter in the WTB section also. I thank for all the help really. And if I ever locate the proper crap I am certain I'll be asking here all over again. I'll try to give it a break for a week or so though.
  15. Mister Williams, so what you are saying is it may after all be normal? Because you could hear it when the cap was on and clamped to the dist body, hear it from sitting inside the car in the driver's seat, faintly still. That gentle popping sound and the tach needle hopping a tiny bit. This all with key in "on" position in ignition. The only other part I can think of about this is when I had it all hooked up and wired and it was doing that, I didn't have the three (black, white, gray) wires from the optical sensor plugged ALL THE WAY in to the connector from the box. They were plugged in sure enough and connected, but I hadn't pushed them all the way into the connector. I figured I probably would screw something up and then would have to take it all apart again and didn't want to press them all the way in and then have to spend an hour wrestling them out again and breaking things. So they were plugged in about 1/3 to 1/2 way. But they were connected solidly in there, not loose at all. This is probably the part where someone comes back here saying "why didn't you say that in the beginning, that's obviously the problem!" We'll see. They were plugged in solidly, just not pushed all the way in. To facilitate easier removal once I inevitably realized I'd screwed something up.
  16. Yessir, rotor installed when it would do the arcing with cap on distributor. It would do the arcing all the time no matter where the cap was sitting. It would do the arcing sitting in my hand. There was no visible sparks though, so I don't know what it was arcing onto. Just crackling/popping inside the cap. And it would stop if/when the optical shutter wheel was aligned with a gap hitting in the sensor, so the crane light would come on. No arcing then. Holding the cap in my hand I could not feel arcing either, just hear it. Will get a photo today of the setup to see if any wires look familiar. Also will try swapping old coil for new coil now with points installed and timing correct for sure. See if new coil is working.
  17. When it was doing the arcing deal, the cap wasn't even on the distributor. I'd turned the key on to try and align the sensor with the shutter properly, using the little light on the Crane box. Obviously I was too confident in my work. The dist cap was resting on the valve cover. All wires hooked to it. The shutter I could get pressed all the way down on the shaft right and seated. It was just the little metal tang things that hold it tight on the shaft would bend in whenever I pushed it on, and the tension would be lost. But it would go all the way down, and I could put the rotor all the way on too, and the cap went on just like normal and the fit was all fine. Except for the arcing sound from the cap, it seemed set up right. I tried to start it a few times like that, damning the arc-popping. It wouldn't light off because the shutter wheel wasn't spinning with the shaft properly. But after turning over the engine trying to start it a few times there were no tracking marks on the inside of cap or anything. Just the damnedest thing that arcing. Key on, popping sound from cap, whether cap on dist or not. Also with popping sound, tach needle jumping a tiny bit. But when shutter wheel was aligned on a gap with the sensor (light on Crane box glowing), arcing sound would stop. Hells bells.
  18. Thanks to both youse. I'm going to lay off it until I can get the shutter disc sorted out. I have a new carb and some other stuff coming Tuesday to take my mind off it. Frustrating though. Bill, I did measure the ohms at the coil earlier and without the resistor hooked in (the new coil) is steady around 2.5-3 ohms. So I figure the smoking ballast resistor, the guy at the Summit tech line, and a few archive posts I've found are right and with this PS20 coil I don't need no ballast resistor. Still can't figure out the arc-ticking distributor cap though. I'll take a photo tomorrow of how it's set up now and see if that can shed any light here. I'm back to points for now though. My only car, etc. But the way I had the new coil wired was same as how the old coil is wired now. To Kidasters, good point about replacing too much at once. I'll try the new coil tomorrow with the points setup and see if it's good. I couldn't get the new coil to start it when I replaced the points earlier but I had the timing all jacked. I've got it running well again so the new coil should work unless it's bad. The problem is electricals and me. I'd rather eat glass than screw with automotive wiring and electrical crap. I just have no patience with wires.
  19. Thanks to all so far. I am losing faith. I discovered after all that the shutter I figured would work, the #219 that came with the kit instead of the 220 everyone seems to use, will not work after all. It doesn't grip the dist shaft tight enough. So I will have to after all send this whole damn kit back and wait for another one. But that should have nothing to do with the wiring buggering up. Bill I thank you one million for the help but I remain confused on things. The coil I am running is a Crane fireball coil, the PS20. It does not have numbers to the posts, just + and — . But figuring on the Bosch 15 being the "positive" on this coil, and the 1 being the negative post. Yet I remain confused still. I do not know how you mean starter relay. I figured to connect the existing wires to the new coil same as they were connected to the old one. The tach wire being the only wire on the negative post. The rest, two wires in one plug (clear-ish thicker wire, and another too filthy to tell a color) and another single wire in one plug, on the positive side of coil. And the Crane box wires hooked up just as the directions, and you, say. Optical sensor wires hooked gray white black to gray white black correct. Something about this was obviously wrong because that is when I got the popping, arcing sound from the cap with the ignition in the on position. I did not trace the existing wires to where they originate so if this is how you mean starter relay then forgive me. I remain confused still. When I tried to plug the ballast resistor into the equation. The car had no resistor before. This came in the box with the new coil. The Summit man said this coil needs no resistor. When I tried hooking it in, I took the clear-ish thicker wire, the one everyone says is the resistor wire in the 76, off the + post and put it at one side of the resistor. Then ran one wire from the other side of the resistor to the + post. Essentially like your photos. Only I do not have the small silver box your green wire is going into there. Everything else was same as before. When I turned the key, within five seconds there was smoke coming from the ballast resistor. Along with that smell. I could not think of any other way to connect this crap so I took out the resistor. I still was confused. That is when I gave up. I discovered the shutter was slipping on the shaft and thought to hell with all of this, and took it all out and put the points and condenser back in and started the car so I could get the timing right and have it to drive. I am going to phone Summit tomorrow and ask them about an exchange or perhaps just the proper shutter they could send. In the meantime I am back to points. Also I have no confidence in ever getting this right even with the proper shutter wheel. If you could explain what you mean about the starter relay. It seems it plays an important role in the story. I mean I know mine must be somewhere, but it isn't in the place yours is in the photos. Anyway thanks for all of the photos you guys. They do help in seeing how this goes together. If anyone out there is using the 219 shutter wheel with success I am curious to how you managed it properly. Or maybe it all comes down to the distributor. Well thanks. I am back on points at least for now.
  20. Dear friends. Problems from Crane install yesterday were resolved last evening here but now of course much more problems. Thought I understood well how all of this goes together but I guess not. I've got the unit in and the problem is with the wiring of everything now I suppose. I am running the xr700 with the crane ps20 coil, all brand new. I have read both that this coil yes needs resistor, but also I phoned Summit about it and they said no, no resistor with this coil and ignition unit. So I don't know. Hooked everything together following the instructions. Light on the crane unit fires, etc. I did not utilize the included ceramic ballast resistor that came with the coil. My car does not have one existing either, it has the thicker gauge clear(ish) wire to the coil + post. When I turn the ignition on this way, I get a popping sound from the distributor cap. I have the cap off, all wires still connected though. The popping is coming from the cap, inside. If I put the cap on the dist, popping still sounds, and the tach needle twitches a tiny bit. If I adjust the optical pickup so that the light on the Crane unit comes on, popping stops. Oh, car does not start, I tried it a few times just to see. I was not expecting it to start though, I have not come to the point where I try to adjust the firing of it properly. Which I will likely screw up also. But I know it is not supposed to be arcing for no reason like this. So I try installing the ballast resistor included with the coil. I put the clearish wire on one side of it, and a wire to the coil + post on the other side. Turn on the key, and the resistor immediately begins smoking. Turn off the key. Obviously that is wrong. I remove resistor again and do the little "ballast resistance test" in the instructions. My numbers look OK for without the ballast resistor. If nothing else I know the bastard is not supposed to be smoking. I am about finished with this goddam Crane thing. How it could be so far over my head I have no idea, when everyone says a baby could install this thing. Hell I don't even know if I am asking the right questions here. I've searched the archives for two days on all of this, and on and off for two weeks leading up to the project. I didn't expect this Crane ignition to be such a big hassle. I can't imagine I am making any sense in this post. But if any of it sounds familiar I'd enjoy any help or advice offered. I can take any photos necessary, have a multimeter, etc. and can follow simple directions. Can scratch my arse with one hand while chawing gum. Can walk up stairs without holding to hand rail. So you know I'm pretty smart. Thanks for any help already, again. Also, I apologize.
  21. Thanks a bunch for the news. I was wondering if I was wrong on thinking I would have to strong-arm this thing a little bit. As mentioned I think I have the shutter wheel fine now, using the 219 it slides all the way down the distributor shaft and seems to sit where I would imagine it is supposed to. Also I've taken your advice above and sawed that long-ass bolt down to about 1/3 the size, and now it looks like it should. Looks like the shutter disc will have plenty of clearance now to spin between the sensors. I will get back on it tomorrow and will post here if, I mean when I have more trouble with this install. For the rigging of the thing into the distributor body at least, the Crane instructions leave a small bit to be desired.
  22. Thanks mister Williams. I kept searching and found some photos here of fellows who have used the 219 shutter after all and been ok. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,319011/highlight,crane/ http://www.designmills.com/wiki/CraneXR700Install I was able to slightly modify the 219 shutter to slide alright down onto the dist shaft. So with that alright the problem now is the above photos. For the life of me I cannot imagine that I can have the sensor mounted to the arm properly there. That bolt that holds the two together would be fine if it were about 1/3 as long as it is. But with it sticking right in the middle of where the shutter wheel is supposed to spin I had better have it all aligned absolutely perfect, the first time, or else the shutter is going to rub somewhere and come apart. I've been looking at all the photos I can find but haven't found a good one yet that shows others having installed it all that way, with that long ass little bolt sticking out like that. So the shutter problem has been solved for now I think and I am presently stumped on the sensor to mounting arm question. Anyone who remembers installing theirs, and if it looked like that and worked with so little clearance, I'm dying to hear about it. And if I am wrong on it like I think and hope I am, please do not spare the horses at slurring me down for a fool. Thanks already.
  23. Additionally, can this possibly be right? See photos below of mounting bracket attached to optical pickup sensor deal. That long little bolt, nut, and washer is the only thing included that can go through hole in sensor. But who designed this thing? Why is the bolt so long so it sits right in the middle of where the shutter wheel is going to be spinning? Can this be right? I must have this wrong somehow. I can't switch the direction of the little bolt either because then the long side comes out the back and it will not fit into the distributor. Holy crap. And I read that this was an easy install!
  24. Hello all. Am trying now to permanently rectify problem which caused this and am experiencing trouble with install of Crane xr700. New unit was purchased the day before Crane Cams went under this week. I don't know if I ordered the wrong kit because there were about five to choose from, all for the 700. I bought from Summit racing. My problem so far is the shutter or trigger. I have six included in the kit I bought. Three are for six cylinder, three for four cylinder. In the searches I have done on here I have found that we are using the 220 trigger. Of course I do not have this trigger in kit purchased. I have a 219, 289, and 288 for the four cylinder triggers. Of course none of them will fit onto the distributor shaft. Or they will fit, onto the very top of it, but they will not slide down at all. And I have tried forcing them. I am making sure to line up the flat spot in the trigger with the flat spot on the shaft. Nothing. I do not want to break any of them either. Did I buy the wrong xr700? I bought the one with part number 700-0292. I bought that one after reading the information here: http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=160 The 0292 it says is for imports 1974-1983 4 and 6 cyl. This is going into a 76 02, non-tii. Distributor number 0231 181 011 JFUD. Did I get shafted here on the unit? On the kit? Did they include the wrong shutters? Did I order wrong? Or is this their mistake? Any help is appreciated. I've got a new carb coming Tuesday and was looking toward getting all of this out of the way and doing a full tune on the engine. Bought timing light, feeler gauges today. Ready to roll on all of this and now find I am held up here. Any info on what shutter to use? Everything I've found in the archives says the 220 shutter but closest I have here is 219 and it isn't fitting. Can I modify the 219 to fit? Or will I have to send the whole thing back? Alright, am repeating self now. Thanks a lot for any info. Am holding up the job until I figure out what gives.
  25. Hello all, it is the morning and the car is running again. Replaced points and it worked. In daylight and compared against new points I noticed the old points, the piece the distributor cam rubbed against to open the points had broken off, so points were not opening at all with engine rotation. Would post photo but I only have this iphone. Thanks one billion to everyone for help and info. I am still planning on replacing all remaining ignit parts and going to electronic ignit, probably now sooner than later. To close out, here is a story from this morning. Walked in the 20 degrees to the napa and there was some hayseed buying some part before me. When I picked up my points and was waiting to pay he asked what kind of car I had brokedown. One of those talkative hayseeds. I told him a 76 bmw. He broke down into bent-over laughter, I shit you not. When he recovered finally he said, "I'll give you five gallons of gas and a match..... And a 9mm to shoot at the firemen when they come to put it out. That's about the best fix you can hope for on a car like that!" I looked at him and as calm as I could told him I paid 1500 dollars for the car a few months ago and in the last 3 weeks alone it has carried me some 3000 miles without a hiccup until now, and here I am about to fix the thing with a 5 dollar part I was able to buy in this tiny 500 person town. He did not say anymore and I left and walked back and fired the car right up. Thanks again for all the help. And to Lebowski/Aaron in Wichita, I will likely still phone you another time regarding those dizzys you have. Mine I think the vacuum advance is stuck and wornout. I will be in/around here, eureka, for about a month or so and may get with you sometime on it. Will send a pm. Thanks again.
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