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doug73cs

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Posts posted by doug73cs

  1. I bought a siphon portable blaster from HF and have used medium glass media and Mike is right about being to harsh on aluminum. I'm going to powder coat the intake anyway so this time no problem. I wonder if this hopper type unit would work with soda?

    f3da9a00.png

    IMG00056-20101120-0814.jpg

    Another option to try is the homemade soda blaster that has been posted a couple of times to see if you like the results. I did a throttle body with it and it was ok but not to the level of finish Mike has with the side drafts.

    http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

    Doug

  2. One options that will never come off are spray or brush on liquid polymer sound deadening coatings. I pealed off dyna matt and replaced it with quiet coat. The dyna matt wasn't particularly hard to peel.

    I've used the quiet car on my CS and it's especially useful on uneven surfaces. I have had to remove it for some seam welding and it is a Bitch to get it to bare metal so any issue of it falling off is not possible unless you applied it over an oil soaked surface. Some cleaning might be prudent if that is the case.

    I guess I'd call this an endorsement but no affiliation, $$$$ or bribes involved. Here's what it looks like as a brush on installation.

    IMGP3635.jpg

    http://www.quietcar.net/?google&_kk=car%20audio%20soundproofing&_kt=c9ff1ef8-3076-44b3-9460-72b7c4c1b555&gclid=COPV3c3CsqACFRKfnAodU2jXUA

    http://www.lizardskin.com/

    Hope this helps.

    Doug

  3. Billw:

    If you haven't looked through these to excellent restorations they are great resources for just about anything related to the care and feeding of the needy '02. I would send my compilation file but it's bloated to 50MB but all of it comes from Project Blog posts so it is all there for the looking.

    http://www.02tii.com/suspension.shtml

    http://www.my2002tii.com/toc.htm

    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,286338/highlight,suspension+rebuild/

    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

    Best of luck and have fun with it.

    Doug

  4. Fred

    That's impressive. I might be able to find a set of corner scales from some of the race guys but front/rear or side to side is easy (but that doesn't really give you the same as corner scales) so I'll try to keep it simple and work in one plane.

    I'll continue to stare at your post and maybe a light will come on but then there is still the problem of the corner scales. I think it is safe to say that moving 540 lbs toward the COG isn't really going to have much effect on the front/rear distribution.

    Thanks to all for the insights.

    Doug

  5. Ski bum.

    Became a ski bum in 1976 after graduating as a Landscape Architect. Hand to mouth existence for three years while skiing about 120 days a season. Spent the next 30 years as a contractor and real estate developer during the oil and gas boom/bust cycles here in Alberta and have scaled back to less than half time and one large project that should transition nicely into being a ski bum again.

    Ski bums also have evenings free in the winter to take their cars apart and try to put them back together in a still functional form by April. Or change them to fulfill some wild ass vision.

    -27c and sunny today. Swix V05 Polar kick wax on classic x country.

    Doug

  6. This question relates to my 73 CS but there are so many similarities between the m10 and m30 and the motor mounts of the e10 and e9 that I thought I would tap into the vast knowledge base of the faq first. The car is already fairly well down the modified route - already mostly mid 80's 5 and 6 series engine and drivetrain with modern programable EFI and ignition so originality is pretty much out the window.

    In order to make room for some future engine mods, to shift the weight bias closer to 50/50 and improve the position of the gearshift lever I'm looking at moving the engine to the rear by 2" - 3". I can deal with the appropriate fabrication of the motor mount "adapters" ( lots of engine transplants post on faq have done a similar move). There would be some (perhaps substantial) work to the firewall and transmission tunnel, transmission mount and driveshaft all of which I can do with some professional help.

    I've done everything I can think of to reduce/transfer weight from front to back (battery relocate, bumper removed) and will probably get rid of the power steering system and go to a Tilton master cylinder brake setup.

    My question is how much difference to the front/rear weight bias (if any) will a 2" shift to the rear make? This isn't going to be the deciding factor but it would contribute to when it happens. If nothing else it would centralize the car's centre of mass.

    Thanks,

    Doug

  7. Assuming you have a 32/36 weber and just added a sync link - what was you mileage before? My 38/38 gets about twice the mileage you have with a 3.90 rear end.

    Now that the jets are synchronous opening, could you lean out the mix? Was that at constant cruising or passing everything in sight with the new found performance?

    Doug

  8. I'm considering having a 4 point roll bar installed and am looking for advice. This is not for racing - just a little added rollover protection.

    The main hoop would a removable diagonal and have two legs running back to the top of the wheel arches where they meet the rear bulkhead. Rear seat to be deleted and the main hoop tilted back far enough so no head banging possible. The base of the roll bar would be boxed and the wheel arch would have a additional plate. Other than "why bother?" - any advice?

    Any examples you care to share of a 4 pt installation would be interesting/helpful.

    Doug

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