doug73cs

I have inherited the classic engine rebuild faux pas from the previous owner. The machine shop neglected to plane both the block and timing cover case at the same time and the engine - which runs very well - weeps oil when hot at the head gasket just behind the timing case/block. There were no details on the rebuild but I assume it is to stock specs.

I know the right thing to do would be pull the whole thing and get it decked as a unit but since the engine is good is there any merit in suing RTF gasket sealant? Any experience with this as a fix?

Doug

Thanks for the tips. I used very thin black foam tabs to shim the glass against the mounting tabs before clamping with the twist rings. No more buzzing. The cluster itself was very clean (like new) and bright LED's installed by the previous owner.

Should have thought to look at the my2002tii website - great resource for just about anything to do with the e10.

Doug

Thanks, I have removed the instrument cluster and disassembled the twist rings and glass. Only the speedo glass is tight in the opening - the other two have enough slop that they can rattle side to side in the opening and the twist locks don't put enough forward pressure to stop the movement. I'll fudge that.

Surprisingly clean and dust free in there. Just polish the glass and reassemble.

Doug

The glass on both the tach and gauge are loose and buzz horribly around 2500rpm. No amount of tightening the 2 knobs holding the cluster in have helped. Before removing the cluster, is there a gasket that should be in between the glass and gauges that I should order - don't see it on RealOEM or the blue books?

Thanks

In my experience, the list is a result of getting your needs and wants confused.

Wanting that lowered, flared, M2 rocket is not the same as needing decent brakes and starting without some voodoo ritual involving quotations from L. Ron Hubbard to be a daily driver. Safe and reliable is a good start but not nearly as much fun smoke in all four (upgrade to five) forward gears.

Hence, the list.

What part of TO doesn't have sidewalks? I thought they paved the whole thing before I left in 1976.

Gorgeous car - what wheels?

Doug

The attached link goes to an extensive testing of shift levers to find the best combination of length and effort. I couldn't find any discussions on this in Search but doesn't mean that hasn't happened.

Is the Z3 ball diameter (or other series for that matter) the same for the Getrag 245 and anyone out there tried any of the recommendations. I haven't seen any of the short shift kits available - any feedback or description of what they have done (shaft length above the ball and below). Any recommendations?

http://www.mz3.net/articles/143.html

Thanks,

Doug

Grover:

Here's a link to the pictures and the post on my conversion of a carb m30 to SDS full engine management. Substitute the 318i intake manifold for the 528i that I used and the rest should be much the same. Hope this helps.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/EFI/

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5841

Doug

Probably the opposite of tunes itself but very easy to use and if you run it in closed loop it will take care of everything.

http://sdsefi.com/

Doug

Love to show pics of my children

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/e9forum/

I have a 73 CS Polaris with lots of mods so non original for judging but that was never the point. The e9forum has lots of knowledge but I often ask here first because there is so much common territory and even more experience.

Great feature is just about anything in the drive train from 1968 to 1992 can be bolted in with not too much fussing so I have a 3.5l 535I engine, 81 528i transmission and unknown 6 series LSD. The intake manifold is from a 528i but the intake runners are from a C tubes from e21 (courtesy of Toby .

Happy to share any thing I have learned. Rust never sleeps.

Doug

Thanks - that sounds more reasonable. And I take it that it is not just a matter of changing the worm gear if it was still available?

Doug

Two questions after rummaging through Real OEM.com It looks like the Tii steering box is a faster ratio than the 2002 (12.8.1 vs 15.5.1) regardless of whether the 2002 is a 4spd or automatic. Correct?

Secondly, assuming the part is still available it looks like just changing the worm gear will change to ratio of my 2002 steering to the faster Tii box. Correct?

Thanks for any advice on this.

Doug

This issue with the fuel fillers/spout - is this only on California? What does it look like and what creates the issues?

I'm planning on a road trip this summer and don't wnt any surprises if I can avoid them.

Doug

From my CS for those really long trips. Carbon fibre bottle cages (weight is always a consideration, right?) and 3/4" alum plate that will get replace with something more elegant.

Having the 38/38 on both my CS (m30) and '02(m10) I would also recommend installing a wide band air fuel meter as the ultimate tuning aid. The downdraft design is a major pia changing the main fuel and air jets and the fewer times you have to open the carb the better. The wide band gives you real time readings of the fuel mix and makes it easier getting it right with fewer re-jets.

The meter and o2 sensor is around $300. If you have multiple cars or a bunch of like minded friends you can cost share one meter setup and your individual cost is only adding the o2 sensor bung to the down tube +$30 installed. Once it's dialed in and jetted you don't need the meter unless you like to see the numbers and flashing lights.

Opinion only of course.

My DS is from a 81 320i and has the rubber centering sleeve - no bearing. I'll replace it since everything else has been done. What do you lubricate it with if not grease?

The white fibre crap on the close up is from paper towel I used to wipe the sleeve which didn't have much grease on it.

Doug

JG - are you talking about 03 Centering Sleeve 26117526611 in this page? I don't recall replacing it so can't speak to the excess grease being the problem but the consistency doesn't match black tar like residue. I'll have a look at the driveshaft to see if it looks like the picture you posted.

Thanks for the suggestion,

Doug

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1733&mospid=47175&btnr=26_0001&hg=26&fg=10

CD - thanks but none of the above. Dry and tight on all accounts.

I'll clean up the mess, get a new FEBI Guibo and install according to all the advice on alignment.

Thanks

Jg- It's a FEBI - it had the instruction sheet. That's why I'm a little embarrassed that I ignored the bolt orientation. I don't think that is the problem here. I think it's a combination of alignment and driveshaft length ( too long). Not sure if I will replace the guibo since it only has 250km on it.

Doug

Justin:

Thanks for the comment. That makes sense - had a nasty vibration at 40mph and that was why I started to check the alignment. There isn't any obvious rubbing on the outside of the Guibo but I will check all the angles and clearances when I put it back together.

Urethane engine mounts are new and I'll switch to urethane for the transmission mount.

Doug

I converted my 76 Sahara from auto to 5 spd using the 82,000km transmission from mu 81 320i. Shifts like new and very quiet. All seals replaced with new parts and filled with Redline MTL.

I just pulled the exhaust in order to check the drive shaft alignment and noticed a black gooey splatter on my nice clean installation so I pulled the driveshaft and Guibo. WTF is this stuff? MTL is a clear red liquid and this crap is black and much thicker - almost tar like. There is no leakage at the selector rod or seal at the output shaft.

The Guibo is new but already distorted so I think the rear differential needs to move rearward to take the pressure off the disc. I also noticed that some idiot (that would be me) installed all of the bolts on the flex disc oriented the same way instead of alternating. Duh!

So. Any ideas what this is? Creamy nugget filling in the flex disc leaking?

Nick: I'm in the market for a set of intake runners if you're going to part out the engine. Items 1-4 on the attachment.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1733&mospid=47175&btnr=11_0802&hg=11&fg=40

Please email me at decoupe73cs@gmail dot com

Doug

Esty

This link said 1300£ which must close to $2500. Interesting article.

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/userupload/file/BMW.pdf

Doug

I have a set of freshly rebuilt and re-upholstered Sport 320is seats in my '02 and Recaro SRD seats in my CS. While the SRD is the most comfortable seat of anything I have ever sat in (in a car that is) I think they are too tall for the '02.

Recaro SRD

Both of these seats are best for smaller framed individuals - my opinion.

Doug