albawhore

I have a basket case and tons of parts. Need to go fast. All or nothing. Glass, speedos, dash, Transmissions. Email spaarke@yahoo.com. Once again ALL OR NOTHING.

They sell universal floor mount "hot rod" pedals at both summit and JEG's.

If you don't want to wait I bet they would have one over at the speed merchant on Lincoln

Justin,

If you download the exel version of the table in the faq's you can change the tire and wheel parameters and it will do the math for you.

This is what I came up with:

1500rpm: 1st=8

2nd=14

3rd=21

4th=28

5th=35

2000 rpm:

1st=10

2nd=19

3rd=29

4th=38

5th=47

2500 rpm:

1st=13

2nd=24

3rd=36

4th=47

5th=59

3000 rpm:

1st=15

2nd=28

3rd=43

4th=57

5th=70

Cheers

JB

The shortened engine compartment syndrome could be from trashed motor/tranny mounts. You might want to check.

I have been entertaining the electric water pump idea, there are probably a couple of horses stuck in the factory one.

Cheers

JB

Up above the steering column at the back of the cluster there are 2 knurled nuts. Take those babies off and disconnect the speedo cable while you are in the comprimising position required to get the knurled nuts off. The cluster should pull out. Look in the FAQ's for speedo/odmeter repair and cluster grounding.

Good Luck

JB

Check out www.bayarea02.com

You should be able to find what you need there.

Welcome to the illness.

Cheers

jb

I am oing the M20 swap so almost all of that shit is going AWAY.

Thanks though.

JB

Mr MacGinn,

I live in awe of your work and thank you for answering my post.

The problem I have is where the nose meets the "wheelhouse" as you can see in the pix.

I am going to replace the leading edge as you did but I think I am going to add a little less metal.

Thanks again!!!!

jb

I forgot my camera so I do not have pix.

I was wondering if anyone out there has good photos of the upper attachments of the nose assembly.

Some rotten P.O./body hack came up with a "custom" attachment system for the nose panel on the '75 and I want to fab it back to original.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

JB

Ash,

I am really glad that you chose to keep Karl in your life!!

He is looking Marvelous.

Nice to see you posting again.

Cheers

JB

I have always heard good things about independent in cupertino.

JB

The new bearings should have come with a new "race" or seat, i.e you should be replacing more than just the bearing cage itself.

JB

BLUNT from this board click one of his posts or his blog and use the email link.

JB

Justin,

The nose had been installed with some of the poorest welds I had ever seen and there were some rust issues where the rad support and nose panel came together. I am going to be redesigning the rad support for the M20 so I decided to take the nose apart snd fix the rust. I will then re-attach the rad support after I strip and repaint it. Then I can do all of the custom work for the M20 more easily and I will be able to fix every surface (both sides) of the nose panel and then re-attach it.

Thanks for the props.

JB

BLUNT, BLUNT, BLUNT, BLUNT!!!!!!!

JB

Jeff,

I was thinking smaller chrome-molly tube like they used on the formula ford chassis'.

It would look bitchen and probably do a lot better job.

I am not ready to put my life on the line to find out, without some crunched numbers though.

JB

I am wondering if a tube version of the control arms and trailing arms would be stronger, lighter etc..

If anyone can come up with tube size and wall thickness I am willing to fab some up and find ou how expensive etc. they would be.

Cheers

JB

Check out www.strictlyeta.net and Jeff Irelands site.

Strictly eta lays out how to build a stroker from a curious conglomeration of parts.

Jeff Ireland sells stroker kits for the 2.5l m20 from the 325i to '91, his kits range from 2.9l to 3.2l.

I am planning on going with Jeff's 3.2 kit, he was not really willing to give any numbers because there are so many tuning variables. I asked if he thought ~240 hp was attainable and he said yes.

Metric Mechanic sells built engines in a range of sizes priced from ~$5000. They guarantee their engines and say that they are uber reliable.

If you go with the factory set up of 2.5l i engine and ECM with a chip you will only make ~150 bhp with torque in the 170 range and the car will be as reliable as any e30. This is an attractive set up for many because you can find a used e30 with a decent motor and trans for ~$1000 and you have all of the parts (less motor mounts) at your finger tips.

I am going to go big with either carbs or ITB's and probably the latter with a megasquirt type set up of some sort.

I am also going to try and "splice" in the rear suspension from a 5 lug car so that I can get beefier rear ends to hold up against a heavy foot and, hopefully, huge torque numbers.

Cheers

JB

Hello all.

I have been having fun learning to weld with the Miller.

The first project was a rolling stand for the body so that I can move it around by myself.

Then I began with the trim holes and shaving the filler neck.

The next was removing the late model bumper mounts and boxing the frame back in.

Unfortunately I have that disease where I keep starting stuff and not really finishing anything. I have resolved to make task plans with rough durations so that I can grab a plan that fits the time window that I have and take each task all the way.

Anyway here are some new pix.

Has anyone used the repair panels that go on the rear corners?

Part # 41351885108

I am curious to know whether they are a weld in piece or like an applique that you put over the existing.

TIA

JB

2nd sawzall.

Watch out for fuel lines.

Plasma cutter is WAY MORE fun.

JB

the front spindles are larger in diameter and the rear trailing arms are boxed. Those are the only differences that I am aware of but I am a non-Tii guy and I am sure that the Tii guys will chime in.

Cheers

JB

timing is out.

JB

Check with Pedro at 1602.com

JB

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,247527/highlight,rear+bushing+removal/

BMW 2002 FAQ - Presenting the $3 ulitmate bushing removal tool!!!

Check this out.

Cheers

JB