TobyB

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ps this cult gets weirder every day 

true dat.

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Ahhh, yes, hydrautics.  I do believe those date back to the days of the overcomplicated bong....

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supportive of the idea, but already has enough pedal boxes for the time being.

...so you just, kinda, tucked the shift linkages back in there with, um, a coathanger or something?

Or was this not a Getrag 232?

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I am truly surprised that car didn't make it 10k higher- there really wasn't anything all that scary in the ad,

and it's about the 'best' tii version out there- at least from a collectable standpoint.

I wonder if the bodywork and engine were really that big a turn- off. 

If the paint and metalwork is done well, it just shows how shallow 'collectors' are...

In which case, at the final bid price, even stingy old me, who thinks these things are only one

step above John Morton's shitboxes, would say 'Crap, that's a really good price for that car'

If it's a color you like, and the version you want, I'd certainly say go have a chat, and see what the seller wants for it.

Local is worth a HELL of a lot, since the two of you can look at the car, and you can fall in love with it- or, not.

But it's $20k to strip and paint a car, and if the bumpers really are rechromed, that's another several thousand...

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still would buy 5 beaters instead, but he has real problems.

'minilite style' is just too vague to mean much.

Panasports are awesome.  Westerns suck.  There are a few varieties in- between.  Including Minilite and Superlite.

I tend to pick the highest  offset, knowing that I have a butt- ton of spacers if needed.

If the wheel sits too far out, that's a lot harder to fix.  That said, either wheel at 6" is going to fit just fine.

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when motive needed, Compo not so shabby.

How does their software compare?

If I was looking at these, I'd try the interfaces to see if one was significantly better than the other.

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+1 for a clogged float valve.  

After that, a failed float.

Setting the float level is a measurement between the sealing surface of the 

carb top and the bottom of the float.  There are different dimensions for

brass or plastic, and I don't recall them off the top of my head for the 38.

I DID remember the URL- https://www.lainefamily.com/images/WeberTuningManual.pdf

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The other thing to check if they're not parking are all the grounds-

the park circuit has to ground the armature to brake it quickly, so if it's

not getting ground, it will usually over-run the park position...

...it's been a looooonnnnggggg time since I've messed with one of these...

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I'm often confused when 11 year old threads are bumped

especially to gripe about something that I like to call 'answer fatigue'

and inaccurately in this case, as the first responder included the answer...

along with the link.

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torques his anti- seized nuts to 65 ft- lbs with a torque wrench that hasn't been accurate since Nixon was a crook.

+1 for Mike on the parking circuit inside the gear housing on the motor itself.

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At least tree fiddy.

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The numbers cast into a part are seldom an actual BMW part number.

A casting number is very different from a stamped number, which is added later.

The ribbing probably does a very good job of trapping and de-aerating oil spray.

I can't believe I read all the way to page 4....

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As long as the hub centering ring doesn't interfere with anything, it's kinda moot.

If you can match the hub on your wheels, for example, then the spacer at least is centered on the wheel.

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oh, yuk- 

piston slap?

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Ludwig hit all 7s today...for the third time under my care.  Guess that's lucky for car and driver...  

That's pretty cool, Mike...

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To add to OR's observation, I've also had the fingers break off diaphragm clutches- although your inspection camera would catch that.

Did you use a new pilot bearing last time?

5 seconds to spin down is odd-  it's longer than usual, but it's also not so long that the synchros shouldn't

be able to grab and overcome the relatively little bit of friction that's keeping things spinning...

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+1 for Tom- you gotta keep your rockers basted.  

It's one reason they break at high rpms-

the passive basting system can't keep up much over 6500.

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Does he have an exhaust leak?

Flat spot on one or more of the adjusters?

What's odd is that it's so loud at idle, and then goes away with revs.  Although, that could be AGC on the recording device....

It sure sounds like a collapsed hydraulic lifter- but of course, it isn't.

If it really is loud down low, oil pump chain?  

Something loose flopping around in the sump?

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guessing

The only time I've tried bench bleeding is on vehicles that say you have to do it- Chevy S10, I think...

It does save some time, but I think it's more for components that have check valves in them...

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 If the turbo is above the manifold, it will shake like hell at some rpm where the setup hits resonance.

That makes total sense- an M10 can shed an alternator in about 30 seconds if it's not either isolated

or bolted on really solidly...

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I was 100% wrong- see below.

It must be a 'this thing has to be higher than this thing which has to be higher than...' thing.

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There's a decade- old thread about this that I'm too lazy to go searching for...

there are roughly a dozen variants, and each one has an identifying feature or 2.

I've got half a dozen, and I don't think any 2 are exactly alike.

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If the shifter moves when you're changing from accel to decel in all gears,

then the main shaft is probably walking in its bearings.

If it only happens in 2nd, then it's possible the shift collar and/or 2nd gear engagement teeth

(OR's 'dogs' but pointier and more shapely) are significantly damaged.

There's a low chance it's just the synchronizer ring.

This is all kinda moot, though, as unless you can find an external cause (shifter hitting the tunnel, for example)

taking one of these things apart to fix it is quite a project, and parts are not trivial to find.

Getrag was a victim of their own success- these transmissions lasted so well for so long that no- one 

made parts for them nor learned how to fix them, and now, 50 years on, there's not much out there.

Any Mitsubishi transmission, now, parts for THAT are all over the place.  Including the road...

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had a Gen 1 Montero more than twice...

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what head gasket thickness/type should we be using to help offset the need for high compression pistons?

Are you asking if you should use the thicker gasket to get the compression ratio down a bit?

I would.

As Tech71 says, you could always de- dome the pistons down to 9.5 or so, too.  It would probably be more like

a few mm, and then a bit of roundover work to avoid creating hotspots on the sharp edges, but if you cc'd the head

after the valve work, checked deck height with the pistons, and THEN took a cut, you could get the compression 

ratio pretty darned exact.

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I would worry a lot more about the quality of the rubber and not give a hoosifudge about 2RS...

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