dang

Replaced the original seat belts with some aftermarket retractable units.  Cheap, easy and works awesome.  The factory belts attached on the roof and did not retract, so if I used the shoulder belt it went right across my neck and had to be left loose so I could reach the dash.  Useless.  The new belts are bascially 90's style belts.

The B-pillar had a recessed area at shoulder height and after taking the trim off found a hole in the trim covered with vinyl and a threaded hole in the B-pillar.  Took about 20 minutes to install each side and I'm really happy with the results.

32 minutes ago, tech71 said:

That DMV document looks worrisome, not a title is it?

Just means everything has been transferred into the new owners name except it's not complete until it gets the VIN verified.  Not a big deal.  That area of the page lists everything needed to complete it so it doesn't look like anything else needs to be done.  IE:  Fees, missing documents, etc.

Made it out the local Cars and Coffee.  Nothing going on with the car right now project wise, on the back burner while I replace a few house roofs before the rain comes.  Rain in CA?  LOL

I haven't been to the Folsom Cars and Coffee since they moved it to El Dorado Hills and didn't know about the Carmichael location.  Rocklin has one the second Saturday of every months and get a good turn out.  I also don't have any classics roadworthy right now.  Oops.

Looks like a pending sale at $14,500

This car goes up for auction on Monday.  Currently pre-bid is $11,200.

I had a perfect set of black seats for a '73 in storage and a rat decided he needed a 1" piece right in the front.  I wish I'd thought about it like you did.

I bought a smoke tester a year and a half ago thinking I'd use it once or twice but have it just in case.  I've used it about ten times so far and it's saved me a TON of time.  Old cars like vacuum leaks.  8-)

Driving the car around in the Sacramento heat was causing the temp to run higher than it should.  Since it only has a temp range on the gauge and not actual numbers to reference, it normally runs at around 12:00 on the gauge and got up to around 1:00 while sitting still.  The radiator was suspect and air flow for sure, so I decided to change to an aluminum radiator and add a pusher fan.  The radiator is a Champion and fits great, and it was only $180.  The fan is from a Toyota but I'm not sure which one since I just found a broken fan assembly and took the motor and blade off.  Used two strut tower "washers" from another car and mounted the motor directly to the radiator, then used a temp sensor in the radiator bung.  The fan turns on or off with the sensor and off when the ignition is turned off.

6 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/21521163714.htm?pn=21-52-1-163-714-M9&gclid=CjwKCAjwwqaGBhBKEiwAMk-FtNJNAJO1clhfJOhKTFJovUrty6fk3YKlJUber4QD5nFdGC_Ep7Z4rRoCDD0QAvD_BwE

 

Thanks for this, I need it for my E3.  1 meter length, shipping and tax came to $22.50.  Should be able to use it for my coupe too!

One of my go to checks when trouble shooting is a smoke test.  I've never had a leak in a vacuum advance diaphragm but I'm assuming it would show some smoke somewhere around the housing?  It's usually pretty easy to find leaks using smoke but I wonder now.

Pot holes are legal now aren't they?

The hood torsion bar wasn't holding up the hood on my '69 E3 but it ALMOST was, so it didn't feel like it had a broken rod.  Once I took it off the car I realized one end cap was distorted and made one rod not work at well.  I happened to have an extra 2002 hood prop sitting in storage and used those end caps on the E3 setup.  They're not exactly the same but close enough to work when you use both.  The hood props are about as mechanical as it gets so there's only a few different ways it can go together before you find the right way.  ?

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

What I would like to know is State Farm has set the retail value at 40 grand, I wonder if this is reflected in the pay out to the owner.

It could be.  Most classic vehicles show an even number like that and is probably the agreed value.  Other insured vehicles are rarely ever even numbers.  They used to use "ACV" instead of "Est Retail Value".  Copart and the insurance companies like to be vague any chance they get.

I can imagine a lot of heat generated in that setup.  Too much apparently.  It's not scheduled for auction yet but I'll try to follow it and post what it sells for.

Has this been discussed here?  Am I late to the game as always?  Just in case...

https://www.copart.com/lot/40547831/1976-bmw-2002-wa-north-seattle

Looks kinda like a compression tester adapter, but I'm not sure why there would be two.

Okay, I've gotten far enough with the car that I'm ready to start on the air suspension.  I have no idea what I'm doing so I'm hoping for the best...

35 minutes ago, TobyB said:

I don't think you could suck 'em up- if I remember, they take something like -.4 bar or something to lift.

 

If they're pliable, not binding, and not leaking air, I'd suspect they're ok.  I use a mityvac for things like this-

that little gauge is so useful to tell you at what pressures things start happening.

 

You CAN bypass them by simply removing the plungers and plugging the port.  They activate the 

'boost' jetting by dropping.

 

hth

 

t

 

Thanks Toby.  I actually just finished reading one of your old posts about them and understand it much better now.  I have a couple extra power valves so I may "shorten" them just to see if anything changes.

Any opinion about my jetting?

16 minutes ago, TodB said:

Hey Dan,

 

Start here for E9 jetting info  > https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/rich-running-webers.81/

 

I've got a bunch of weber 32/36 jets also that I'm happy to part with. Let me know what you need and if I have them, I'll drop in the mail.

Thanks for the offer Tod.  I'm hoping to eliminate the power valves as a problem before moving onto jetting.  I may just buy two new ones.

I have two Weber 32/36's that are running very rich (on a 3.5 M30).  I don't have a way to measure it other than the stink, and I know it's the motor not me.  Oh yeah, black spark plugs too.  I took the tops off the carbs and got jet sizes and also tried to test the power valves since my understanding is they can cause a rich mixture if not working property.  I covered the small orifice and pushed down the plunger and it didn't stay down or have any hesitation on the way up, then I put a tube on the hole and sucked until my eyes almost popped out and still nothing.  I took them off and they both look the same, the diaphragms are pliable but look like they only the cloth left and no rubber coating.  I'm assuming there's suppose to be more than just the cloth-type membrane.

Suggestions for next steps?  Any other way to test them?

Here's my jetting:

Primary
Idle: 60
Main: 140
Air corrector: 160
Emulsion tube: F50

Secondary
Idle: 60
Main: 140
Air corrector: 170
Emulsion tube: F50

Steve, occasionally when I click on the "Reply to this topic" link under an existing message the text box doesn't display and all I get is the "Drag files here to attach, or choose files.." option.  All it allows me to do is add an attachment.  I've even tried just adding the attachment and then edit it to add text and there's still no text box.  I would say this happens about 10-20% of the time.  I'm on Firefox.  Not sure if this is a known issue but thought you'd want to know about it.

Thanks,

Dan

C-pillar grilles

Same seller sold this one last week and it went for twice what the E9 folks expected.  Definitely not prime examples but somehow they get the money.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-3-0cs-48/

I repainted the headlight grilles with Krylon Dull Aluminum but added a two-part clear coat to help protect it.  Worked good.