dang

Right or wrong, I assumed, with my response, that he's looking for the only steel rim that warrants the "tii" adjective, those used on all 2002ti's and 2002tii's manufactured from '69 through July '73, as below.

I would guess that a recent thread brought this to the OP's attention once again:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/164511-are-these-wheels-a-big-deal/

Regards,

Steve

Yes, that's what I'm looking for.  I have three round taillight tii's that all HAD steel wheels.  Somehow I ended up short at some point.  Since they are all at various stages of restoration I don't need them right away.  I also need to figure out exactly how many I need...

What's a key?

I'm not in a hurry but will need some tii steel wheels in the future.  Let me know if you have any, I can buy singles if that's what you have...

Check for vacuum leaks while you're at it...

Here's the culprit!  Wasted.  I ordered one and will fix next week.  But, while the car was on the lift I was able to check it out really good and this thing is very solid.  No signs of rust repairs in the past and the PO had it undercoated in Europe years ago.  Its not thick and textured like some undercoatings so you can tell the metal is in good shape.  The transmission mount looks good so while I'm in there I'll replace it with the E21 mount, I think I have one on the shelf.

Extra credit!  Taken last night when I was installing the windshield in my '73tii.  Other car is a '69 2800cs.

Could just be the tires causing that vibration..  get them checked out.  rotated and balanced, etc.  Unless they are known to be new, of course.  Don't forget the simple stuff!

Tires are always my first thought since they're the most likely to have problems.  In this case the vibration is too high of a frequency to be tires.  I was also able to get the vibration to mostly go away by feathering the throttle or taking the load off the drive train, which is why I figure its a center bearing or mounts.  I've been busy this week so it won't go on the lift until Saturday.  I'll follow up with what I find..

This car sold.  I'll probably regret not finding room for it and keeping it.  Its getting saved though..

I just want to know how you wet sanded that primer to look like Atlantik?  If you can do that, I think you do anything you want to the car!!  8-)

Congratulations, looks like a good one, hope it doesn't need much sorting for you to enjoy it.

Everything works and it drives nice, except when I got it on the freeway about 50mph it has a vibration in the drive train.  I'm hoping its the center bearing, maybe the flex disc, but it didn't vibrate under acceleration, just higher speeds.  I'll get it on the lift later this week..

Congratulations! I'm in Carmichael. Interested in the photos. Do you attend the car and coffee events?

If you're talking about the Euro Sunday gatherings... sometimes.  I'll be at this months at the Fountains but probably won't be in a car to show.  

Needs a little sorting out but otherwise very cool. It even has the headlight bucket covers, which I'd never seen before..

I'll post pictures when i can...

Thanks guys.  So it sounds like the steel wheels and alloys are painted with the same color?  I guess that makes sense, I just never thought about it before.

Krylon dull aluminum, word is.

I've heard this before but was only able to find Aluminum, not Dull Aluminum.  I had some success with Aluminum with clear coat over it to tone it down, but the silver on the wheels I have took brighter.

Maybe I missed this topic but I'm in need of silver rattle-can paint for steel wheels on a '74.  Anyone have success with this?

They will also look at completed Ebay auction and other asking prices for these cars.  If they see that the cheapest ones in the worst condition are selling for above $5k they will eventually come around.

This is what you're in store for....  NO ONE at the insurance company will know anything about your car, you will know much more than they will, so you just need to prove the value to them.  The claims guy will probably act like they know, but it will most likely be BS.  Remember, their job is to save their company money so like others have said, be patient.

You have to start with determining the value of the car, that's where most of your effort should go.  The shop will determine the cost of repairs, then its just a numbers game.  If they want to total it but its close, you could ask what the maximum payout would be for them to just cut a check and you keep the car clear title, then you find your own shop to fix the car the way you want it.  The one good thing about not knowing the value of the car is that they don't have much to go on for salvage auction prices, which helps them determine your buy back price.

Still WAY easier than explaining an E9 coupe.  "What kind of BMW is that?"  Its a "CS".  Well, mine is a 2800cs but they also make the 3.0cs.  Most people just kinda nod their head until I say "Its the predecessor to the 6-series", then they say "Oooooh yeah, I see". 

You can see that the colors are very close (through the dirt!).  I'd clean the hell out of it and then decide.  If you already said that in your post I apologize, I didn't read them.  ;-)

My 2002tii is called "Zeus Tie" otherwise I call them two thousand two's.

I used single stage when I painted my Riviera tii because I had never used base-clear and didn't mind keeping it "more original".  I'm not sure either way affects the value of the car but I would guess that most of the technology goes into bc/cc now a days.  Here's my driver's door after it was buffed out...

On the road (almost legally)...  Still sorting things but driveable.

I think I met this guy at a Euro Sunday gathering in Las Vegas a couple years ago.  He had a really nice black 2002 on display and we talked for quite a while.  He comes across as a very nice guy, I would've never guessed that he was a problem.  Maybe it started out good and then got too far under...

Since it can be restarted after messing with fuel, I think that question has been answered.  I'm on the side with fuel delivery, and I would start in the tank to make sure all the connections are air tight (fuel tight), then tackle the fuel lines if that doesn't fix it.  Leaky fuel lines usually come with fuel smell, or whiffs of fuel smell from time to time.  A leak in the tank can be unnoticed as far as smell goes.

You can also isolate the problem by connecting a fuel line before the fuel filter and running it into a gas can.  If it starts and runs fine then you've eliminated the carb and filter as the problem.

If we cut one giant (e.g. full drivers side) section out at a time to weld in the new piece, is there any chance something bending in the frame?  The sub frames have been removed and the car is currently sitting on jack stands.

This is actually a very good question, and concern.  If you have the car on a relatively flat surface on equal height jack stands you should be fine.  The subframes add quite a bit of rigidity but as long as the rockers are still intact the car will stay straight enough.  The cleanest fix is cutting the entire floor out and leaving a small flange around the outside perimeter to weld to, but as mentioned above, you can also do very good repairs with patchwork.  Prep and seam seal and you're good to go...