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dang

Solex
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Posts posted by dang

  1. If you decide to restore it I have a small shop in roseville that you can use for paint.   It's a garage but I get decent paint jobs out of it.  If you research other restorations you'll see it's a lot of work but not complicated. 

     

    Dan

    • Like 1
  2. It's been a minute.  While the '79 G-Wagen waits it's turn I'm getting my '91 NSX back on the road.  It sat for 12 years.  Yeah, no excuse, that was dumb.  Anyway, it's getting a mini-restoration with a clutch, timing belt, water pump, LMA assembly, tune-up stuff, fuel system, muffler rebuild, paint the top and replace the seats.

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  3. You might get an idea of how it happened by looking at the shape of the damaged area on the radiator.  These tall engines, with the motor mounts located where they are, tent to rotate on the axis of the mounts and the fan collides with the radiator at an angle, but you usually see less damage and more toward the top.  Yours looks like it almost hit the radiator flat, or at least the top half, which would make more sense.

     

    Remember, there's three mounts that can affect the fan hitting the radiator!  Check the transmission mount also.

    • Like 1
  4. Looking at the photos again I don't think it's "bent down" as much as it seems.  Not worth fixing, but not hit as hard as I thought.  The combination of the flat tire, missing wheel, hanging air dam, hood slightly open and hit in the A-pillar makes it look worse than it is.  IMO of course.

  5. I saw that listing a while ago and was thinking if the swap was done fairly well it would be worth buying the car and using it to build another one.  Not sure how it would be to drive though.  Maybe the front damage is a sign that the motor is too much for that car/brakes.

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, TobyB said:

    ...and I'll just say this here, once, and be gone:

     

    use a base/ clear system unless you're the one applying the material. 

    At this point in the universe, the only reason to stay single

    stage is if you're learning how to paint. 

     

    I know that there 

    are many out there that swear that it's single stage or nothing,

    but my actual experiences, both with professional painters

    and in learning to paint myself (I went with purple- it goes nicely with my eyes)

    are that base/clear is a far superior paint system for a car that's going to get

    driven.  Maybe even (gasp) exposed to sun.

     

    t

     

    I use both so it's not "single stage or nothing" but I do consider the vehicle and paint color.  I've used single stage on my white Chevy work truck, okay, that one doesn't count, a Golf 2002tii, a Sahara 2002 and a Chamonix E3.  The Golf tii is the only color that I was on the fence with, but Sahara and Chamonix look really good single stage.  There's a really good chance that he'll drive his car more than I drive mine, so there's also that.

    • Like 1
  7. I've been side-tracked with other home projects and haven't been working in the shop for months.  Soon!  I did manage to pick up another future project, which I cannot justify.  Oi.  1979 Mercedes 280GE 4-spd swapped with a 3.0L turbo diesel.  Runs and drives pretty good but will need to be completely gone through.  Major sheet metal work needed, which I'll try doing myself, and the motor will need new gaskets throughout.  Call me crazy.

     

    The windshield area is the worst but it has other common areas of rust for an ex German Border Patrol rig.  Frame is solid.

     

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  8. When I bid on cars I consider the "Enhanced" label as meaning it doesn't start and nothing more.  Enhanced, Starts, Runs and Drives are the basic labels.  I guess enhanced sounds a lot better than Does Not Start, or DOA.

     

    One thing is for certain, everything that Copart does is in Copart's best interest before anything else.  They have limited information and limited photos on purpose.  They have a sliding scale cost for "Internet fee" when you bid online, even though they charge the same if you bid in their lobby.  A cheaper car might cost $29 for an internet bidding fee and an expensive car might cost $129, for pushing the same button on the website.  Copart fees are insane and will continue to ratchet up because it's a publically traded company and has to show growth.  I get pissed off every day after buying cars and entering the fees in our system.  😬

    • Like 1
  9. Keep in mind that there's a chance it will never go to auction.  The insurance company probably has a contract with Copart to store their vehicles while all the details are worked out.  If the owner wants to retain the vehicle it will disappear off the site, or it could go into a legal battle and sit for a year or more, which would destroy the car(s).

     

    Someone needs to hose those cars out with a fire hose, inside and out!

    • Like 1
  10. There's 20 plus classic cars at that yard so far.  Looks like someone lost their Corvette collection too.  Sad

     

     
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