Repaired the front subframe by welding in reinforcement plates--one for the driver's side motor mount (which was cracked), and the other for the center bottom of the subframe (which was all bent up from car jack use). Also fixed a bent and broken tow eye; we're guessing they were both bent inwards when connected with a tow strap. Many thanks to Ken Calardo for the welding! Video here.
Disassembling the steering box required the use of a pneumatic pickle fork to hammer off the pitman
As we start a new season of work on the car, a look back on two years of fun. Video by Sarah:
Also, last chance on the "factory color" shirt orders:
My daughter and I are selling 2002 "factory color" shirts to raise money for a big parts buy. (Suspension, brakes, etc.) All the colors, all the sizes!
Pre-orders only, until August 31, 2018. Shirts will ship in September. Order here
We dropped the rear subframe mainly because of the cut axles; our theory is that a salvage yard did that in order to roll the car around with a seized differential. (There is great freedom in working on a car that was rescued from the crusher!) Both the differential in the car and the extra diff that came with the car are not usable; the former barely turns (confirming our theory) and the extra one turns freely but has chipped gears (see photo). At a Rivertown Gear Busters parts swap we had pick
We decided to drop the front subframe because everything needs sorted and one of the control arms is bent. After some cleaning, we’re now inspecting the subframe for cracks and so far it looks okay. (But we’re also looking at the reinforcement options.)
Are there any other problems here we should be looking for? And how important is it to replace the idler arm bushings? I’m reading about how the new (blue) ones don’t fit well on early cars, and ours is an early 1971.
We got the engine out and really like the nifty side-mounting on the engine stand. Not sure what we'll do engine-wise, but now it’s on to the engine bay and the sorting of many systems.
Last photo: “sweet child.”
After removing the head (which seems okay), we put it back on and torqued it down--just to see if the blockage reappeared. It did not. So, the mysterious blockage is gone, and we're debating what to do next. Options include having the head gone through, swap in a used head, swap in a used engine, or go through both the head and the bottom end. Whatever we do, at least we have a new cooling system ready.
While our car was offline, there were two highlights--doing the design for Rob Si
Well, we got the First Start (yay!), followed by our first setback. (“Start” video here.) The setback (two days later) was doing a compression test, when the engine locked up. It turns by hand (as if it was a clock) from Noon to about 10:00, and then back; somewhere there’s a mechanical blockage. We checked the flywheel (it was fine) so the next step is to check the internals of the engine. Tonight we’ll use a borrowed scope to peer into the cylinders (via the spark plug holes) and see what’s up
Looking for insight and advice as we try to start the engine on our 1971 2002 for the first time. We don’t know the history of the car (here's what we do know) nor why someone else abandoned it mid-project. We’ve enjoyed the researching so far (many FAQ searches) and the gathering of parts, all while having lots of fun (see our project car website link in the blog description). Now to put fuel to spark, and see what we’ve got engine-wise.
- Mechanical #1: The engine