DukeRimmer

it's nearly detached from the frame rails which provide most of the lateral support. Needs front panel IMHO.

If the ramps (strikers) on the hood are clearing the latch rod (near the rollers), try adding more lift at the adjustment in center of fender. Be aware that this change will affect the hood/door gap when closed. This gap wants to match the 1/4 panel/trunk gap, NOT THE LOWER DOOR GAP.

'67-'70 bumpers ride lower than later ones. '73 is farther forward, so be sure to have a plan, better yet parts in hand, before drilling fenders.

All used parts are junk till needed. A part needed can be a treasure. I wait till then to scrub them. An unidentified part is worse than junk, so this trany's headed for the dumpster.

To scrap or not to scrap? Please notice double rear mounts.

Have plenty if anyone needs some.

Car smells like dogs.

Lady Stephanie Bing (stephie)

California is annoying.

I'm currently dismantling a '67 that has a rough but salvageable body. Your reply says to me that someone may benefit from my taking the time to save it. I usually cut the front body away and drop all the front mechanical bits in one piece, then cut the roof off and turn the car over to remove the rear bits. Hope I can find it a new owner.

Thought you track addicts preferred '67 because of weight. What am I missing here?

Save or sell the beauties. You should scuff sand before paint, so they will not be cleanable.

(nt)

Probably grounds, but could be cracked circuit board. [/img]

Original early rocker moulding were very well made, with rounded corners that had no gaps. They popped on over the clips with a little firm pressure. Later they were made rougher at the corners and had to by installed with a dead blow hammer. By the mid 80s they were so poorly made they don't fit over the clips at all. If anyone's interested I'll post pics showing the decline in quality.

Guess there are now two of us that appreciate simplicity. Have parts if you need them. That cable wants to be straightened between the two clamps.

We appreciate the time taken to create it, and the pics are great, but the info needs work.

See Neil in PA for why tii manifold is better than stock. More interesting is why tii is better than tubing header. I see three aspects to consider; size of tubing, obstruction of flow, and weight. I'm just a body guy, but after seeing the surprisingly sloppy fit of header to head port interface, tii manifold must be better. It can be shaped (ported) to fit the head ports precisely. Is saving a few pounds better than free flowing exhaust? Where's the proof that headers are best?

I have the manual style for you, if you go that way. Also an electric, that looks aftermarket from the bottom only, with good motor. Also have plenty of manual parts. To change styles, you cut at the six posts.

(nt)

Then it's hard to keep it clean. The ugliest vehicle I've ever seen was a motorhome painted dark brown. The color brought out the waves in the fiberglass. That's why they're all white.

the ’02 forum’s Foremost Authority. Wurth rubber glue is a simple contact adhesive that is thinner than the stuff in tubes and thinner than that in most cans from other makers. Thinner makes it easier and therefore quicker to apply. Speed=profit. It is the best product made for weather strips and sunroof seals. Everyone who has ever glued anything should try it. To use it on a vapor barrier, however, is to use not enough glue. It must be applied to both surfaces to be glued. It’s hard to imagine brushing it, with it’s 12mm brush, on thin plastic sheet in adequate quantities to seal a vapor barrier.

It’s also hard to believe someone who disagrees with Mike and C.D. so I implore you, for the sake of your interior, to experiment for yourself and apply common sense. Next time you have the trim panel and vapor barrier removed from your car, use your garden hose to apply water to the outside of your rolled up window in quantities sufficient to imitate rain fall. Much of the water will not be shed by the belt line seal,* and will pass through, into the door shell, between the glass and the “squeegee”. What passes through will drip off the bottom of the glass. It will not drip onto the outer door skin. It will not drip to the bottom of the door. It will drip onto the inner side of the door shell, and from there will want to pass through all the openings in the inner door shell in order to ruin your trim panel, and then your entire interior and floor. When you see the amount of water that comes through you’ll know why it’s so hard to find a good used trim panel, why I’m so obsessed with this, and why you should seal up the shell better than can be done using original type materials and technique. Why attempt to duplicate the original look where no one will see it? Use spray adhesive (any brand) on the entire inner door shell and the entire THIN plastic sheet. Push the plastic into every low area and stick it to every mm of the inner door except around the lock rod. Cut away excess with razor blade being extra careful at the lower corners as the openings are very close to the edge here.

*The belt line is at the bottom of glass. Down by the door handle is the upper side moulding. All cars have belt lines, some cars have no side mouldings.

Strip caulk is not sticky enough. When it drys and loosens it's grip, rain water will find the gap. Also want to revise my previous post about any plastic sheet will do. It's better to use thin plastic film and push it into all the low areas around the openings in the inner door shell. Every square mm of plastic that contacts the door should be stuck down. Don't try to duplicate the original and bridge the low areas with heavy plastic sheet. Don't try to save old vapor barrier, just replace it. Once again, sorry Mike.

Harv; my spares are rough, chrome not alum.

Agree with SteveJ about originality. A rough old BMW mirror looks good enough for my old sprite.

martin senour#21503, dupont#43561. IMHO clear coat here looks out of place, like a course metallic japanese color looks wrong on the body. Too gaudy. My opinion is limited to gun sprayed products, don't have much experience with rattle cans.