Pablo M

Today I finished wiring my third brake light. Thanks to everyone that helped me sourcing the right wires to connect to. 

Also adjusted my driver door seal, installed new, that wouldn't let the door close. Removed 1/2" off the back of the seal which allowed the door to close properly.

1 hour ago, JohnS said:

Rescued another stray dog from ebay...  This one has the markings I was looking for...

 

BEFORE:

 

AFTER:

Cleaning it up like that is one of the first things I did to my car as well. So gratifying. 

I just trimmed 1/2" off the back and reinstalled temporarily. Door works great now. I'll go back and clean up the surfaces and glue it properly.

Thanks all.

They really should redesign the part...

6 hours ago, OldRoller said:

There are many posts on the faq re: door seals and closing issues, with both aftermarket and oem seals. Many have corrected the excessive effort to close by trimming the back side of the seal that glues to the body frame, reducing the overall thickness of the seal on the latch side of the body. 

 

I did an extensive search, but my search was related to the door seal, not door alignment. This post you linked is a great resource and I like how they solved it. I can cut the bottom off and trim 1/2" off the back easily. I'll try that first. 

4 hours ago, jimk said:

If the latch mechanism is gummed up, the latching time is too slow and the door rebounds before the latch locks.  Need clean latch mechanism before doing any seal trimming to have any success.

Latch is fine. Door closed fine before new seal.

3 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

So i just solved this. I had a W&N aftermarket seal on my passenger side and the door would not close without a serious slam. In an extreme move, i cut the seal right at the belt line trim and removed the bottom half of the seal. The door closes perfectly. So now i knew the problem was the bottom half around the striker.

 

I then bought a generic seal and installed it on the bottom half. I super glued the seal to the top half and the transition is almost factory. Door closes perfectly.

 

This generic seal has an integrated pinch trim and so no gluing is required. 

 

Amazon.com: Automotive Door Weather Stripping 10Ft Car Door Rubber Edge Trim Seal Strip Gasket with Side Bulb for Car Bus Camper Boat RV Truck Doors : Automotive

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Amazon.com: Automotive Door Weather Stripping 10Ft Car Door Rubber Edge Trim Seal Strip Gasket with Side Bulb for Car Bus Camper Boat RV Truck Doors : Automotive

 

 

Ill post pictures later when i get home.

 

I'm going to try trimming 1/2" off the back of the seal I have first before buying another seal, but I like this solution too. The pinch trim replaces the trim that goes down the length of the door holding in the headliner and side vinyl, correct? This is a good alternative solution. 

2 hours ago, VWScott said:

Me thinks there needs to be a new correct design for these seals. If people have to go to these extraordinary efforts it tells me the design is wrong. Reminds me of working with Empi parts...cough cough

Seriously, right?!

2 hours ago, Mike Self said:

This is the little grey plastic piece that fits over the leading rotating latch on the door edge.  It's a small but vital portion of the ability to close the door without excessive slamming.  If missing it can be temporarily replaced with a short length of clear vinyl tubing.  

 

But that's not your problem:  it's the seal itself.  I haven't had to replace one since 1999, but the one I bought new from BMW fit just fine; took a little extra force to properly close the door when new, as it was replacing a 30 year old seal but within a month or so took a set and all was (and still is) well.

 

Small suggestion:  since the primary wear/deterioration portion of the door perimeter seal is the lip that seals the trailing edge of the door glass to the B pillar, if the lower section of your old seal (door to body) is in good shape, reinstall it vs the new piece.  

 

Bottom line:  suppliers need to re-jigger their moulds so the part is made correctly.  

 

mike

Ah kernel. No, I think I can safely say I don't have that plastic kernel on either door. I have clear tubing so I can make a temp fix but agree that's not my issue since door closed fine before and passenger door, still with old seal, closes fine. 

7 minutes ago, Tommy said:

When I try to close the door with "normal" force they just bounce back. Double the force and they latch closed but not completely. Then double the force and they latch fully. So needed force is about four times what I would feel comfortable. Fully latched they sit flush with body as they did with my old seals made of universal reel material.

I’ve had to slam them pretty hard to get them as shown. I’ll try much harder to see if it changes. 

17 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Did you scrub the glue area of the seal with scotch brite or steel wool and adhesive remover/prep, 3m makes a good one, the repo seals all seem to use a mold release that contains silicone that prevents the glue from gripping well. It takes awhile to compress the seal so it will play nice with the door, do you have a corn kernel on the latch arm.

 

 

 

Yes, scrubbed glue area of seal. 

There's a YT video I saw that showed the install well, and it included the scrubbing (sanding actually), which I followed exactly. He did not have this issue though. 

Not sure what you mean by corn kernel? 

10 minutes ago, Tommy said:

Same trouble here. It looks that in the picture your door is not latched all the way to the second click. Not sure if true, but it looks like that. Slamming force needed is so much that I can't tighten mirrors enough to keep them adjusted.

I have seals from Wallothnesch, driver side oem and passenger side aftermarket. Only difference is that the aftermarket one doesn't stay glued while the oem is still attached. Same slamming required. Situation has not improved a bit over a year.

Surely EVERYONE that installs new door seals doesn't have this problem. There has to be solution. This is totally unacceptable. I'd hack away at it if it weren't so damn expensive. 

Door is latched fully, and it takes significant force to slam it shut. It looks like its not fully latched but it is.

Any less force and it feels like the door latch isn't mating correctly, with the door just bouncing back out. I used to have that issue on my old 69 F100. 

I recently installed a driver door seal since the car was missing half of it. 
Bought at BluntTech. Installed fairly easily, I mean it was slow going getting the top into the channel correctly but I managed. 
 

Door does not close correctly, sticks out and needs forceful slam to close. 
I’ve done a bit of research only to find lots of this issue, but no solutions. Only thing I saw was that the thicker front lower a pillar part should not go below the window line. But my door’s rear edge sticks out. 
I’m  tempted to trim the seal but really shouldn’t have to, and don’t know that will solve the problem. 
also today noticed all the slamming is pulling the lower seal glued surface loose and it’s coming free. 
Any suggestions?

this is door closed and latched:

this is seal as of tonight, most of it has come loose from the glued surface:

That's more than the going rate by almost double. But shady and illegal. 

I was at the garage this afternoon. Sadly I only have water pump pulleys, not crank pulleys. I wasn't sure which I had. Sorry. Good luck in your search!

The multi color brown threw me for a loop. I knew it wasn't right for a ground. I was trying to keep the new wire length short and not have to go all the way back to the taillight. Taillights ground in the middle behind the brace so I can't see them easily, or access them as they're bundled up in tape. 

My wiring diagram doesnt show my side marker lights either, which I see are grounded to two brown wires. Again, I was hoping to keep the wiring to a minimum. And I didn't want to drill a new hole to do a new ground. 

Looks like I'm extending the wiring to the taillights and grounding to new chassis ground...

1 hour ago, mmaaaaaxx said:

@OldRoller I like the placement of those. What brackets did you go with?

That looks like Phillipe’s brackets, which I also have. Great value at $40-ish a pair. See photo below. 
 

This afternoon I spent a few hours at the garage and installed H4 LED headlights as well as rewrapped a bunch of related wiring with age appropriate 3M friction tape like original. Didn’t have zip ties and appropriate drill bits to complete install but happy overall so far. 
This is a plug and play kit I bought some years ago for my 1969 F100, since sold. The kit is made by D’s Nuts, aka F100fasteners on eBay and was very reasonable at $115.  I realized it would plug and play the same into the 02 so I installed them. 
 

We’ll see how bright they are when I finish the install. 
 

They really deserve all the success they’ve gotten and continue to get. 

1972 2002tii

I'm installing a third brake light. 
I see the wiring bundle on drivers side in trunk. I thinking I’d tap into the green/red wire for power and brown/yellow for ground. I didn’t get clarity from the wiring diagram I have. 
 

Does this seem right? 

I wanted to give a shout out to both BluntTech and 123ignition.

@BLUNT and his team have been incredibly helpful over the last year. I've relied on Sean there in particular, who has helped me via email answer questions, give me links to exactly what I need for my particular needs, including some items not on their website (special 5-speed trans mount for a 240 instead of the typical 245 for example). Super helpful when I've had questions about install as well. I've become a loyal customer, spending way more money there than my wife knows about.

Also want to highly praise 123ignition.com. I bought the 123+ from BluntTech and had issues installing it and getting my engine running. I reached out to 123ignition and their tech department CALLED me back to talk me through the install and creating an appropriate map. Ed from 123 several times helped me diagnose issues and get me running. 

This level of customer service is rare these days so I wanted to let everyone know how great they are. 

I know Dorian, friend of a friend. He used to be on here a bunch but hasn't been on in ages last time I talked to him (almost a year ago). I run into him every year up at Monterey for the Rolex Reunion. He's one of the SoCal locals. He has lots of other old BMWs as well. Nice guy.

I was scrolling through the SoCal Regional Forum and noticed a couple threads I could contribute to.  It does not give me the option to reply to any threads there. 

I checked other regional forums to see if it was the same and it was. No option to reply, only Go To Next Unread -> and <- Previous Thread are options. 

I think I still have one non tii drivers side, and possibly two front tii calipers. Happy to have them go to a good home and get reused. 

On 6/5/2024 at 2:12 PM, ptegler said:

So...anyone have an old crank pulley laying around they'd care to relinquish? 

tia     ptegler

 

I think I may have one or two spares. Let me look in the garage next time I'm over there. 

I can’t believe I missed this deal. I was following this and had a calendar reminder but still missed the preorder. Ugh!

I did not mark the arm. I assumed, like the mechanical dizzy, that the arm would turn on the way out, and turn back to original spot on the way in. Is that not the case? Do I need to do the initial install again? 
 

Doesn’t the screenshot I posted indicate it’s not reading a file? I’m not certain it’s using the file I saved/wrote. Previously when I went to Curves it would show the current file it was reading. 
This is what that screen should look like:

(note, not the file I ended up using). 

I had to fix a leak at the distributor bracket so I took out my 123 distributor. I did not disconnect any wires. I just moved it aside to do the work. 
Prior to removal I marked where it was.

Once I completed the work I reinstalled the distributor to match the marks and reinstalled the cap. Again, nothing was unplugged. 
Started the car and seemed off so I figured I had to recalibrate the distributor to the actual timing on the crank pulley. When I opened the app it showed no map, see photo below. 
When I click Files I can see the two maps I created. I assume it’s reading the map I uploaded but the ‘no file read’ comment has me second guessing.  
 

If I pull the 123 am I supposed to reinstall it the same as initially installed? TDC, insert then rotate till you get the blue light, etc. 
 

Also, had some excitement when I test drove the car, having forgotten I had stuffed a work rag down by the exhaust (on top of the trans to catch oil as I removed the distributor bracket). It
caught fire as I was driving. Saw smoke inside the cabin and when I stopped and looked underneath, thinking it was oil dripping, I saw the rag on fire lol. Good thing I had a fire extinguisher lol. 

Well, finished putting on the driver door seal. Had two missing rivets on the a pillar trim so had to pause the install from the other day. Got it done today and now door won’t close properly. I have to close it with some force to get it to close all the way. That I expected, but the bottom of the door sticks out further than it did previously.  In fact the whole door doesn’t close all the way. 
 

Also, battery was completely dead. I assume from the door being open between when I started the seal project last weekend and finished it today? Can’t find another reason it would have died. It was completely flat. Dropped another battery in and started fine. 

Also tried to calibrate the 123+ again, having taken it out to fix the cracked head but it wasnt reading a map. That was weird since I didn’t disconnect it when I took it out. Do I need to install it same as the first time, at tdc, then turn to get the light to come on? I thought I could just put it back exactly where it came out. 

On 5/27/2024 at 11:28 AM, Mark92131 said:

Everything you can do suspension wise can be done without dropping the subframe.  Those look like stock sway bars, so a good bang for the buck upgrade would be IE sway bars.  If it were mine, I would do front shock inserts, tie rods, center link, lower control arms, tension arm bushings, ball joints and sway bars.

 

If I still had rubbing, BFH to get a little more clearance for those tires.  Happy to spend your money.

 

Mark92131

I agree. No need to drop subframe. 

I recently did exactly all this. I replaced all the rear and front bushings and added the IE larger sway bar. Not difficult projects. I don't even remember any of the bushings were difficult to do. The rear is tedious as there's lots to remove including the diff (and those bushings get replaced anyway). 

When you do the front you could easily do the ball joints and shock inserts as part of that work. Center and outer tie rod links also come off as part of that work already. Having done it, also with lower springs, I can tell you its very satisfying result when done. 

I suspect that should clear up your clearance issue. If not, there are bigger issues to deal with. When I had bottle caps with 195/60 tires I did not get rubbing.

All of this work is an easy weekend project, front and rear. 

Good luck!

Installed driver door side weatherstripping. Half was missing and made door rattle. 
discovered the alum trim the seal seats into was missing two forward rivets so I installed new. Otherwise easy install.