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JimVO

Kugelfischer
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Posts posted by JimVO

  1. Both of the Tilux hood lock wires have broken immediately adjacent to the brass rod which is captive to the interior locking lever. I have just a bit of excess wire at each of the under hood locks so was thinking that I could drill out the rod, re-insert the wires and then secure them with a small ferrule. Has anyone made this type of a fix, OR might you know of a supplier for the two wires which are silver soldered (I believe) to the brass piece which is inserted into the interior locking lever. I found the lever available at WN, but not the wires, so I've sent them an inquiry. I've not found a part number at either WN or REALOEM.

     

    Thanks,

    Jim

  2. From our farm in Indiana to Skaneateles, NY, Woodstock, VT, Stowe, VT. and Saratoga Springs NY. for the Vintage BMW event.  Eight days, 1087 miles, 23.7 mpg overall. We had no issues other than a loose passenger side wiper which was replaced with Rain-X for the first and second days of fairly steady rain. In Stowe we hooked up with 17 other members of the BMW Vintage group, had a great day of Vermont twisty roads, a gondola ride up Jay's Peak on Thursday. Friday we sampled another selection of awesome roads on the way to Saratoga. In the year since it arrived it's received all new brakes, Bilstein HDs, tie rods, track rod, wheels, tires, fresh ignition components and replacement of all suspension bushings. As I experienced with an E3 a few years ago, replacement of the 50+ year old suspension bushings makes a dramatic improvement in driving characteristics. This is our first road trip of over a couple hundred miles and I have to say that the Tilux is a great road car. She got a bath this morning and a pat on the hood for a flawless performance. Looking forward to the next one.

     

     

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    • Like 4
  3. On 7/9/2021 at 9:46 AM, phugley said:

    Those plastic door sill trims in your photos should be attached by rivets, as were mine, correctly, I believe.  The screws that I was referring to are along the bottom edge of the stainless trim pieces.

    Thank you for the input. Much appreciated.

  4. Hello All,

     

    My '67 Tilux's rockers are in need of repainting and in order to do so the stainless trim needs to be removed. They are currently attached with rivets (!) and that is quite likely incorrect. The car was repainted once in its life and I assume that the rivets were used at that time. I would think that slotted screws are correct for the period (?) and welcome input from those who know the correct hardware

     

    Thanks for your input.

     

    Jim

  5. The pot metal portion of my Tilux door brake has failed and after removal it looks to be the same as those on E3 cars. Can anyone confirm if that is correct? And on a side note, I have a brake currently being offered by WN as the improved replacement but it does not pivot far enough to work properly.

     

    Thanks,

    Jim

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