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JimVO

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Everything posted by JimVO

  1. JimVO
    Yes, there are two types and you're spot-on as to what I wish to accomplish. I want to place the guibo behind the 245 and use a universal at the diff., 2002 style. I need the side loader which has a four ear input flange. Thanks, Jim
  2. JimVO
    Short, thanks.
  3. JimVO
    As the title states, I am seeking a 3:90 or 4:11 short (AKA Side Loader) differential for an early NK 5-sp conversion. I would require shipping to the Midwest, and am willing to cover that expense. Thank You, JimVO
  4. JimVO
    I made up a set using stainless cable. They work great.
  5. JimVO
    If you'll give me a name and address I'll send you a nice one. I'm not at my shop for a few days so please be patient. Cheers, Jim
  6. JimVO
    Have you found a lug wrench?
  7. JimVO
    Thank you, Harry, I have found everything needed. Sorry for the tardy response. Jim
  8. JimVO
    I have found the parts needed. Thanks to all who responded.
  9. JimVO
    I sent a PM to you.
  10. JimVO
    Did you sell this tachometer? If sold, it would be great if you'd mark is a such.
  11. JimVO
    I need a working 12v tachometer and a stock (tall) shift lever. I'd also be interested in a source for the rubber shifter boot. Thanks for your help. Jim
  12. JimVO
    I have euro lights and grills which I had planned to install, but now the US versions have grown on me.
  13. JimVO
    Both of the Tilux hood lock wires have broken immediately adjacent to the brass rod which is captive to the interior locking lever. I have just a bit of excess wire at each of the under hood locks so was thinking that I could drill out the rod, re-insert the wires and then secure them with a small ferrule. Has anyone made this type of a fix, OR might you know of a supplier for the two wires which are silver soldered (I believe) to the brass piece which is inserted into the interior locking lever. I found the lever available at WN, but not the wires, so I've sent them an inquiry. I've not found a part number at either WN or REALOEM. Thanks, Jim
  14. JimVO
    Hey, Chris...Evidently you have inside Information that it will be there...(:->) I look forward to meeting you. Jim
  15. JimVO
    I changed the image format so they would appear. System likes JPEG, not Mac format...
  16. JimVO
    From our farm in Indiana to Skaneateles, NY, Woodstock, VT, Stowe, VT. and Saratoga Springs NY. for the Vintage BMW event. Eight days, 1087 miles, 23.7 mpg overall. We had no issues other than a loose passenger side wiper which was replaced with Rain-X for the first and second days of fairly steady rain. In Stowe we hooked up with 17 other members of the BMW Vintage group, had a great day of Vermont twisty roads, a gondola ride up Jay's Peak on Thursday. Friday we sampled another selection of awesome roads on the way to Saratoga. In the year since it arrived it's received all new brakes, Bilstein HDs, tie rods, track rod, wheels, tires, fresh ignition components and replacement of all suspension bushings. As I experienced with an E3 a few years ago, replacement of the 50+ year old suspension bushings makes a dramatic improvement in driving characteristics. This is our first road trip of over a couple hundred miles and I have to say that the Tilux is a great road car. She got a bath this morning and a pat on the hood for a flawless performance. Looking forward to the next one.
  17. JimVO
    I found your photo useful. Thanks for posting.
  18. JimVO
    Thank you for the input. Much appreciated.
  19. JimVO
    Thanks, Nick. I guess that, to my surprise, the rivets are correct.
  20. JimVO
    Hello All, My '67 Tilux's rockers are in need of repainting and in order to do so the stainless trim needs to be removed. They are currently attached with rivets (!) and that is quite likely incorrect. The car was repainted once in its life and I assume that the rivets were used at that time. I would think that slotted screws are correct for the period (?) and welcome input from those who know the correct hardware Thanks for your input. Jim
  21. JimVO
    Thank you, Alex. I was able to remove a good one from a friend’s 1800 parts car so am good right now. I’ll check out BTS though to have a spare. The current version from WN does not fit the NK even though they indicate it’s correct. Cheers, Jim
  22. JimVO
    I'm looking for a front door stop for a Tilux. Please let me know if you have one available. Thanks, Jim
  23. JimVO
    The pot metal portion of my Tilux door brake has failed and after removal it looks to be the same as those on E3 cars. Can anyone confirm if that is correct? And on a side note, I have a brake currently being offered by WN as the improved replacement but it does not pivot far enough to work properly. Thanks, Jim
  24. JimVO
    Thank you, Chris. If I’d taken a moment to compare the car’s VIN to the four spare engines sitting nearby I’d have known immediately which one matched the car. Duh...!
  25. JimVO
    Does anyone know if an accessible database exists for determining the year of manufacture of M10 engines? Thanks, Jim
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